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How to Make Acrylic & Glass Block Window Installations Easier & Improve Quality at the Same Time

11/05/2008, 01:35 | Wood Shutters

"I'm really scared to do this glass block window installation" a customer recently said. "Don't you have a way to make it easier, lighter, and maybe even cut down the mess for my window project?" Fortunately the answer is yes - it's by using vinyl or aluminum framed windows built with acrylic and glass blocks. In this article you'll learn the following:

1. Why framed windows systems can make your project easier
2. What products and sizes are available
3. What rooms a vinyl framed window system will work best in
4. Where to use both glass windows vs. acrylic block windows systems
5. Cool and unique projects ideas.

1) Why framed windows systems can make your life easier

Let's face it mortared block window installations are messy. Getting the right mortar mix is not easy, and there is always the concern of the pre-fabricated window assembly breaking just as you go to set it into the opening. Framed window systems take much of the guess-work, weight, and worries away.

Framed windows are pre-assembled with silicone joints between the blocks (getting rid of the need to mix mortar) and are usually made with 2" thick glass or acrylic units (reducing the weight by as much 1/3 to ½ vs. traditional block units made of 3" and 4" thick block).
With integral nailing fins the windows are installed like standard vinyl windows (they are nailed into the opening for new construction or built without the fins for a replacement window application) without the mess usually associated with a mortared glass window. Since the windows are siliconed together inside a vinyl frame they can be shipped nationwide and have been used in states with varied weather patterns - from Florida to Minnesota to California to Maine.

2) What product and size options are available?

Factory assembled framed block windows systems can be made of with vinyl or aluminum frames using either glass or acrylic blocks inside the windows. Glass block sizes used most often are 8" x 8" x 2" (for the reduced weight), 6" x 6" x 3", and 8" x 8" x 4" in a wide variety of patterns and colors. Acrylic block sizes used most frequently are 8" x 8", 6" x 6" and occasionally 9" x 9" and are usually 1 ½" to 2" thick. Frame colors can vary with white and almond being the most common.

3) What rooms should you use a vinyl framed window system

The main reasons to choose a block window system are where you want privacy, a cool clean look, style, and privacy all wrapped in one window solution. Since these windows meet tempered window standards they are stronger and harder to break than standard glass windows which make them safe to use in bathroom and other higher risk areas of a home or business.

Acrylic or glass block windows are being used in bathrooms as either transom windows above tub surrounds or above soaking and Jacuzzi tubs on the side of the home for privacy. Kitchen and den backsplashes are becoming a more popular application to get natural light underneath cabinetry.
These windows are being used in stairwells in commercial buildings and for churches who want light, security, and color with their windows (a church in New Mexico is looking to put in green, purple, red, and orange colored glass blocks into one framed window assembly). Sidelites around front doors and closets are using block windows to get security and light without compromising privacy.
For most basement windows considering using block windows without frames - it is usually better to mortar these windows into their masonry and poured wall foundations than to have a vinyl frame around the windows.

4) Where to use glass and acrylic framed window systems

There is much debate over whether glass or acrylic is better for your window projects. The simple answer is they both have their place and that is why both materials are successful in the market. Here is a quick look at where it's best to use each product.

Advantages and Where to Use Framed Glass Block Windows

- Where you want the strength & durability of a real glass window for scratch resistance and quality
- If you want to incorporate a wide variety of colors into your windows
- Where you are concerned about what cleaning products may be used on the windows - (acrylic blocks can have problems if abrasive cleaning agents are used on the block's surface)
- If you like a slimmer frame around your window
Advantages and Where to Use Framed Acrylic Block Windows
- If you want a fully operable single hung, casement, awning, or slider window (acrylic windows can be provided with cranks and fully operable window sashes). In addition acrylic windows can be used in arch top, hexagon, octagon, or round top window designs.
- If you need an energy star or Low E rated window.
- If you want a lighter window for ease of installation.
- If you need a custom fit block size for a replacement window application.

5) Cool and Unique Project Ideas

Here are some different ideas to consider with your block windows:

- A step down almond colored vinyl framed glass block window was used above a soaking tub in a home builder's Parade Home in Columbus Ohio.
- A therapist in New Orleans Louisiana is planning to use a slider acrylic block window in a waiting room inside of an existing glass block wall for privacy and to keep the all block look.
- A home being remodeled in Dallas Texas is considering installing a framed window with a block art mural with an ocean scene applied directly on the glass (this decorative art mural uses glass frit which is baked directly into the glass making it a permanent part of the glass).
- A church in Arkansas is looking to put a Ruby Red colored cross inside a framed window.
With framed glass and acrylic block windows and a vast selection of styles, patterns, colors, sizes and designs - projects have never been easier, cooler, and neater to do!

Mike Foti is President of Columbus Glass Block, Cleveland Glass Block, Mid America Glass Block Cincinnati, Dayton, Akron & Eastern Glass Block New York & New Jersey - nationwide suppliers of acrylic block windows and also vinyl framed glass block window manufacturers including patterned and color glass blocks.
For nationwide questions and orders call 877-668-5888

http://www.columbusglassblock.com/ - bathroom glass block windows, acrylic block windows, colored glass block, vinyl framed glass block windows

http://www.columbusglassblock.com/product_new-construction.aspx vinyl framed glass block windows, color glass block, glass block sizes, acrylic block windows, installing glass block windows

The Stained Glass Tradition

11/03/2008, 00:46 | Wood Shutters

Stained glass reached the state of the art in the early 11th century. Many gothic structures used such windows and even today they impose themselves with their beauty and their ingenuity. In those times men set up a glass factory wherever nature allowed one to be built, namely near a silica deposit. Silica is the main and most important ingredient in glass making. To obtain colored panes, people used the help of chemistry. While still liquid, an amount of metallic oxide was mixed in the melting pot. This gave the material its color.

Man knew colored glass from ancient times so the Romans, the Egyptians and the Greeks were renowned glass artisans. During the 5th and 6th century, the technique we know today as stained glass began to show its face. Early creations can be admired today in museums. At first, they combined thin pieces of alabaster inside a wooden frame; this gave a similar effect. Later on, Asian manufacturers used pieces of colored glass to create what we know today as stained glass.

For more detail, artists use painting techniques that enhance the overall design and complete difficult to fill areas. One interesting thing about these marvelous windows is that the only role they play is to dose the light and to make it difficult to see what happens inside the structure. The themes used in these masterpieces are religious (inspired from bible), symbolic or inspired from literature and myths. Some of them display scenes from the life of Jesus Christ and other religious figures. These are present everywhere on the windows of medieval churches.

Creating state of the art stained glass panes involves a lot of artistic genius and a lot of experience. Artistic skill and engineering skill are a must for designing the theme and the structure of such an artwork.

Nowadays, in the 21st century, this technique is used in combination with modern forms of art. A revival of the gothic style took place after WWII. Many monuments lost their windows during the war. Great German artists like Ervin Bossanyi, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Shreiter, and Douglas Strachan took the matter in their own hands and struggled to make and old art form a contemporary one. Nowadays there are not many places where to study the traditional ways of stained glass making.

Despite this fact, stained glass is frequently used for home accessories and interior design elements. Either if it?s a lamp or a window, a piece of stained glass will always add a finishing touch to your home.

Keith Londrie II is the Webmaster of http://www.stained-glass-info.info/ A website that specializes in providing information stained Glass that you can research on the internet. Visit http://www.stained-glass-info.info/ now!

Why Energy Efficient Windows Are a Clear Choice

10/31/2008, 09:09 | Wood Shutters
Real quick...Here are seven reasons to install energy efficient windows:

* Save energy
* Save money from using less heating or AC
* Add to appearance of the house
* Protect a home's interior furnishings from fading
* Higher impact resistance
* Make outside noise less audible
* Insulate your home better, keeping it warm in the winter and cool in the summer

With reasons like those, it's no wonder energy efficient windows are all the rage. If your windows need to be repaired or even replaced, consider installing energy efficient windows.

How exactly do I pick out energy efficient windows?

When picking out energy efficient windows, you want to look for windows that are Energy Star certified.

Energy Star was developed by the Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency. The government program's purpose is to help individuals and organizations protect the environment through energy efficiency. The standard does not just apply to windows but to other products as well.

For the purpose of this article, we will be taking a look at windows that are Energy Star certified. What makes windows Energy Star certified? Any Energy Star product including windows must meet the following criteria:

* Have an NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council) label. The NFRC tests the insulating quality of the entire window.
* Be 40% more efficient than the product usually requires under most building codes.
* Reduce energy bills by up to 15%.

Customers cannot just rely on the Energy Star label to pick out a good energy efficient window though. An important consideration for consumers is to select windows that are appropriate for the area of the country in which they live. Energy Star labels windows three ways:

* "N" for northern climates
* "S" for southern climates
* "C" for central climates

The three types of windows are designed to address the heating or cooling concerns in each climate: mostly heating for the Northern Zone, mostly cooling for the Southern Zone, and both heating and cooling for the Central North Zone and Central South Zone.

How Energy Efficient Windows Improve the House Aside from saving energy, energy efficient windows are particularly fantastic in states that can get extremely cold. These windows work to make homes warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, which becomes particularly evident in states with very cold winters and states with extremely hot summers. With these windows insulating well, homeowners spend less on heating and air conditioning bills. Energy efficient windows also improve the house due to their attractive appearance, though not all energy efficient windows are the same. Homeowners have choices concerning main parts of the window, such as the frame, panes, and spacers.

Parts of the Window

* The frame

Look for windows that have fiberglass, wood composites, or vinyl because these materials are better at insulating. One negative aspect of using wood material for framing is that wood can be difficult to maintain, often needing painting after a few years. Thus, if you choose to frame your windows using wood material, it's advised to get some exterior vinyl or aluminum cladding to cover the wood frame.

* Window Panes

If wondering whether having multiple window panes is preferred to having one window pane, remember the phrase 'Two is Better than One' or 'The More the Merrier.' Two panes of glass with space in between filled with air or krypton or argon insulates better than just one pane of glass does. Certain Energy Star windows have windows with three or more panes of glass, which do the best job of insulating and have greatest the impact resistance as well as improved energy efficiency. Another benefit of multiple panes is that they keep outside noise out better than a single glass pane does.

* Low-E glass coating

Low-E coating is a special coating on the window that is great to have. It reflects infrared light to keep heat outside in the summer and inside in the winter. It also reflects ultraviolet light to protect a home's interior furnishings from fading.

* Warm Edge Spacers

Warm edge spacers are great for reducing heat flow and preventing condensation. Made of foam, steel, fiberglass, or vinyl, they keep a window's glass panes the right distance apart.

There are many brands of energy efficient windows from which to choose. Manufacturers include those such as Accent Windows, Andersen, Cascade Windows, CertainTeed, Gorell, Marvin, Winstrom, and many more. Home improvement companies select which manufacturer brand they would like to make available to their customers. For example, Highland Windows, a Connecticut home improvement company based in Hartford (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/ct/hartford/) is licensed to install Alside, another energy efficient window manufacturer, which has won The Energy Star Window of the Year Award three times.

All Around the Home is an online directory that profiles contractors, allowing visitors to search by service needed such as windows (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/exterior/windows/) and by region such as Connecticut (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/exterior/windows/ct/). Homeowners may request a free estimate from contractors they are interested in.

Featherboards for Ripping Window Stock

10/23/2008, 00:11 | A Woodworking Odyssey
The Radial Arm Saw (RAS) adjustments are completed?I expect to write about that soon?and it is almost time to start building the storm window to replace the old rotted one I willfully destroyed. This is a project on which I will definitely use machinery, and the RAS will play a key roll.

Research revealed that my prior belief that poplar would be better than pine for outdoor applications was wrong. In fact, consensus amongst online woodworkers and the Wood Handbook from the U.S. Forest Service agreed that pine was usually better, but not by much. So ignore my earlier intimation in the Replacing a Rotting Stair Riser post that poplar is any good for rot resistance: it isn't.

Among the contenders for stable outdoor woods: cherry, walnut, cedar, white oak, and mahogany. What a bummer: the beautiful woods are apparently also the ones to use in painted applications outdoors. There is a small silver lining in this: about two years ago I said "yes" when a friend offered me part of a bargain pile of mahogany offcuts, all 4/4 in random widths and 5 foot lengths. This stock is perfect for building the storm, and I selected window stock from this pile:
The thinnest piece will become a simple triangular molding designed to stop water from flowing easily into the window joints. I plan to post the storm window plans in a future entry. Especially because the molding stock was so thin, I wanted to have it seated firmly against the fence of the RAS (yes, I am going to rip stock on a Radial Arm Saw; and no, I am not any more afraid of this than I would be with a table saw). I wanted feather boards.

To start, I ripped a scrap of pine into thinner sections to make two feather boards:

Then I turned the arm to 45 degrees and cut a fresh kerf in the fence:

Using the newly cut kerf, I could line up precisely with the marked 45 degree cut and know that the cut would be exactly on the line. This kind of precision isn't necessary for the feather boards, but it was good practice for when it would be:

With the angles cut onto the board, I turned the saw back to the rip position and started cutting fingers on the board. I ripped to the marked line, turned off the saw between cuts, and repositioned the rip. Unlike a table saw, where the blade is stationary and the fence moves, on the radial arm saw the fence is stationary and the blade and motor are repositioned:

Many people have cautioned me about the dangers of ripping on a Radial Arm Saw (including my father and a friend who attended the North Bennet Street school), and while I agree that any exposed blade rotating at high speed can be a danger, in practice I believe a well adjusted Radial is as safe or safer for ripping than most table saw settups. Take a look at this:

Notice that the body of the motor blocks access to the side of the blade, and the blade guard, once properly positioned, sits directly between the feeding hand and the blade. Through all of this ripping, I felt perfectly comfortable with the safety precautions on the saw. And because I had adjusted the heal/toe position properly, there was no tendancy to kick. The process went quickly and when I tested the newly cut feather board it worked perfectly:

The only thing I didn't like about the feather board was the long point just waiting to catch me in the hip. So I cut the other side to a 45 degree and rounded the tip before starting in on another. At the end of the night I had two feather boards completed:

With that done, I'll soon be ripping window stock.

Turning a Natural Edge Bowl with Phil Colson - Saturday, September 27

09/16/2008, 16:53 | Highland Woodworking Blog

Saturday Mornings at Highland Woodworking

Saturday Mornings at Highland complement our woodworking class & seminar offerings. Join us at our store in Virginia-Highlands on Saturday mornings at 10am EST for FREE, live demonstrations featuring a wide variety of woodworking skills, tools & techniques. These 1 to 1-1/2 hour-long demonstrations feature our knowledgeable staff and instructors, local clubs & guilds, guest authors, and others. Upcoming events include woodturning, woodcarving, care & use of hand tools, joinery, book signings, an introduction to woodworking design software, and much, much more.

Turning a Natural Edge BowlSaturday, September 27, at 10:00am—Phil will demonstrate how to turn a natural edge bowl. He will talk about consistency in wall thickness, chucking and mounting the piece on the lathe.

Phil Colson is the most personable and happy Operations Manager at Highland Woodworking. Ask him about turning! He's been with Highland Hardware for 22 years and has a vast reservoir of woodworking knowledge. Visit his website at www.philcolsonwoodturner.com.

All demonstrations take place in Highland Woodworking's retail store in Atlanta, Georgia and begin at 10:00am EST.

History Traditional Kudus House

09/09/2008, 06:07 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House

Kudus is a city in the Central Java, Indonesia, located among Jepara, Demak, Pati, and Purwodadi districts and in the route of Semarang the capital city of Central Java to Surabaya (please see location map). Based on story, Kudus name was from Al-Quds, which mean holy.

Click image to enlarge

The history of Kudus cannot be separate from the name of Sunan Kudus as the founder and one of the Wali sanga (nine Wali) spreader of Islam in Java at that moment. As his inheritance, Kudus has a famous artefact called Menara of Kudus which form like a temple, placed in one complex with mosque of Menara Kudus that build by Sunan Kudus around 1685 M.

Except famous as a Wali city, since in Kudus area there is wellknown also Sunan Muria, Kudus also known for a long time as a kretek city (city of clove cigarette) as there are many entrepreneurs in the cigarette field. Beside that, Kudus can also called as city of industry because of the long development of industry in the area such as industries in cigarettes, papers, printings, handycrafts, embroideries, foods, etc.

Kali Gelis (Gelis river) which lying in the midlle of the city separates Kudus into two areas, one is Kudus Kulon (west Kudus), the other is Kudus Wetan (east Kudus). Long time ago, according to history, citizen of Kudus Kulon area were entrepreneurs, traders, farmers and moslem theologians, while occupant of the Kudus Wetan area were government officers, intellectuals, teachers, nobles and noble relatives.

Within the growth and development of Kudus, physically Kudus Kulon area, where the majority of the citizens were entrepreneurs and traders, were a steph forward in wealthy compare with the other area Kudus Wetan. With their financial increasing, they build the traditional wooden houses of Kudus full with carved that make it different with the previous traditional houses. That is why, the amazing traditional house, which lately called as the traditional house of Kudus used to only placed in the Kudus Kulon area. At the beginning, the traditional house of Kudus only belong to the Islamic Chinese traders, but furthermore were copied and developed by the native wealthy traders.

The traditional house of Kudus that mostly build before year 1810 M, ever reach the glorious time and become a symbol of prosperity for the owners. The Kudus Kulon area environment was formed with the particular existency of the traditional house of Kudus.

The developing history of Kudus has many influences from foreign cultures like Hindu, Chinese, Persia (Islam) and Europe, which also influence the architectural field in made the traditional house in Kudus. From the research, it can be concluded that there are several motifs colouring the carving style of the traditional house. One is Chinese motif, which form as the dragon carved, Persia or Islam motif that form as jasmine flowers or the particular motif of Kudus that form as lotus flower and colonial motif that form as ropes, crown, and animals. All motifs have correlation with the incoming cultures to Kudus.

The carving art of Kudus dominate by lotus flower as the meaning of Hindu religion. Sunan Kudus introduced a carving dominated by jasmine flowers that described united one to another. The meaning of jasmine was to describe that Islam religion at that time was a small community but it like jasmine, even small, could give fragrance to the sorrounding area. Jasmine made united in one to another to describe that everybody in neighborhood were live in peace even there were differences in the religion.

Within development in making the traditional house of Kudus, influence of the elements of cultures were very viscous gave the meaning of form and function of every part, hence could be separate as follows:

1. Traditional house as the tools to spread religion (dakwah) *)

In the daily life, Kudus citizen are majority obedient muslem. Life of religious service is the social relations that have formed in the many aspects, such as in the house to live which full with the describing of the rukun Islam (Islamic obligation).

In the room inside, there is a place or room called gedongan which formed as mihrab, a place where imam (leader of praying) lead the pray that connected with the symbolic meaning as a holy place and sacral. Gedongan also has significance meaning used as the place of heirloom treasury and the wealth of the owners. Gedongan used also as the main honorables bedroom and at the particular time used as special bedroom for the wedding couple of the childrens of the owners.

Also in the room inside there are four main pillars, which called saka guru that desribe four essence of ideal life. At the top of the fourth pillars, putted tumpang sari where the roof was lying on. The sum of tumpang sari are always odd and always have a meaning, sum of five describe the amount of praying five times a day. The sum of three describe life in soul world, transitory (this world) and the world hereafter.

Front room that called Jaga Satru is provided for parish and separates into two part, left side for women jamaah (followers of imam) and right side for men jamaah (followers). Still in the Jaga Satru room at the incoming front door, there is one wood pillar in the midlle of the room which called balance pillar or soko geder, which has meaning except as the symbol of ownership of the house, it also has a symbol for reminding the resident about the One God, the only One who have to be homaged.

House as the tools to spread religion is represent through Islamic value that formed in the carved style at the partition between front room and inside room called gebyok. The strengthen element of gebyok are two stalk pillars where at its top made a carved that formed as palm of the hand of muslem when doing praying at the position of takbiratulihram (when start to pray) that always at the same time say the words Allahu Akbar which mean Allah The Mighty.

Carving in the gebyok, even it is accumulation from many culture influences, but the visualitation adopted from Arabic calligraphy with Al Quran and Hadist theme. There are many other dakwah messages that formed in the building decoration and it always about aspects of way of life and life attitude of human in do their obligation in the earth for their salvage in heaven.

2. Traditional house as a masterpiece art*)
Traditional house of Kudus if notice deeply is more and more fabulous since its uniqueness and attractiveness in exterior and interior which full with ornamen that made by highest skill woodcarving artist. Foundation of the existancy of the traditional house of Kudus was full with taste and creation that fashioned in the beautiful forms without broken any religion values. Through the activity of art, there is possibility of adding the atmosphere of the deepest metaphysic reality.

Traditional house of Kudus, if seen from Bernard Rudofsky theory, is include in the communal architect that priorities in the art element which done continuosly and spontaneously balanced by whole community with the same tradition from time to time following the ritual habit inside the communal. Art is not just copy and physical implementation of the external form, it also as the spiritual elements that achieve esthetic form. The creation becomes what it called architectural without architect.

The construction of the wooden house made completely knock down that make it easir to release and assemble hence there is possibility also to make part by part of the ornamen fully detail and accurate. The decoration was inspired by the success of temple relief and the development process was instructed by Chinese woodcarver from Sun Ging area. The owners were the wealthy entrepreneurs and traders. The carved decoration were build on the whole component intentionally without gave any empty space left and the results was very optimum, full of meaning, symbolic and the style were correlation among Java, Gujarat, Persia, China and colonial (Europe) style.

Wali Songo influence in the formed of decoration was very dominant even in Islam religion there is a forbidden in the formed of living thing, but they gave the chance of a huge tolerate formed as acculturation and assimilation on the evolutif way thus create a wonderful figurative consequence of imagination from the living thing forms. Art appreciation from the Wali Songo that full with tolerate also accomplished by khalifah in the Arab since Abbasiyah era. Palace of Harun Al Rasyid in Baghdad, palace of Al Mutasin in Samara, Cordoba mosque in Spain, also decorated by fresco formed lion, eagle, horses, and the other creatures. Drawing arts applicated in carpets, ceramics, wall and doors achieved the highest level to become the world admire.

Art ornamentation looks unite with the main building, since the creators were very concern with details, function, structure, ritual, symbol and esthetic that decoratively increase the attractiveness for whoever want to see it. The particular local habitual in the way of life through the architectural behaviour is the description of personification of the Kudus traditional house that make it different in form and style with the other joglo building in Java commonly, except in the form of the roof and soko guru as the support of the tumpang sari.

3. Traditional house as the Class symbol *)

The beautiful traditional houses of Kudus have average age for more than 100 (hundred) through 200 (two hundred). Due to the age of the building, if someone wants to analyze it, they have to use the examination within that era.

According to Prof. Berger, the structure of the Java community at the 19th and 20th century can be divided into several class such as; nobles, government officers, traders and farmers. Colonial politics at that time placed politic emancipation that have aim to liberate individual from old social band which consider shackles the freedom and law enforcement that hold mostly in the feodalism band. Development of individual in the community was appointed to the forming of personality, spirit effort in order to developing the prosperity soon.
In the other words, Kudus citizen that categories as pesisiran (near the beaches) citizen, their wealthy level mostly higher compare with the nobles and the officers at that moment. But in the daily life they did not get any self-respect and honor by the community. They way of living as a trader was qualified as second class and dishonor, hence as the compensation citizen of Kudus Kulon, that the majority were traders, formed the appearance of their house very glorious with the expectation that their too have the rights to get honor same with the nobles. The level of their house made in high five stairs to suit with the social strata like what it done by noble community. Guess from the farmers were accepted in the front room, for the officers community accept in the midlle room while for Bupati (distric chief) and Netherlands people were accepted in gedongan room. Surrounding the house was made high wall same as the form of palace.

Traditional houses that at the beginning owned by traders of Chinese moslem were copied and developed with the Javanese and Islamic values. All over the house were full of carved with ornament from many styles like in the palace of kings in Java, done by high skilled woodcarvers with very fascinating result. Accordingly, it worth to gets the confession of honor like government officers and nobles. For them, house were a symbol of status or stage that worth to get honor and equality.

(Source :* J Pamudji Suptandar, Great Lecture of Rupa art and Design Faculty of Trisakti University/Adopted in English by Deva's father)

The fascinating wooden carved at the traditional house of Kudus must be come from the very skilled woodcarvers. Then, from where the woodcarvers came from?

The carving style of the wooden traditional house of Kudus was quite distinct from the other famous carving centre in Java, Jepara. Historically, Kudus was a carving centre long before it developed as a skill in Jepara. Carving was introduced to Kudus when an emigrant from the famous carving city of Yunan - China, The Ling Sing, arrived in the 15th century. He came to Kudus not only to spread Islamic teachings but also to devote his skills to the art of woodcarving, and his style, Sung Ging, was famous for its smooth and wonderful woodcarving masterpieces.

The Ling Sing was wellknown as mubaligh (spreader of Islam) called Kiai telingsing. The name of Kiai Telingsing until now use as a name of a street in Kudus city. There is a kampong or village surrounding the street called Sunggingan that predicted came from the Sun Ging name. The area, at the past, was belief as the resident of the woodcarvers and carpenters from the devotion of Kiai Telingsing skills.

From the 16th to the 18th century, woodcarvers in Kudus received many orders to construct wooden houses. The main material - highest quality teak - was supplied from Blora's, Tuban's and Bojonegoro's forest. From the 19th century, however, high quality teak became scarcer and scarcer and this, in turn, discouraged the woodcarvers of Kudus to develop their skills.

The carving skills also belong to Jepara's people and has been very famous until now. There is an opinion, which said that wooden carved art in Kudus also done by woodcarvers from Jepara, eventhough in the reality it different in the carving models, especially in the mission and filosophy.

According the history, Mantingan mosque in Jepara has wall that made from carved white stone with the flower motifs that was masterwork of a Chinese called Tji Wie Gwan who brought by Raden toyib to Jepara after come back from his Islamic study in Campa for five years. Raden Toyib then married with Ratu (queen) Kalinyamat, the very famous Jepara's queen at that time.

For his achievement in build Mantingan mosque at the year of 1559, Queen Kalinyamat and her husband gave a new name for Tji Wie Gwan to become Sungging Badar Duwung, Sungging means carving expert, Badar same with stone and Duwung means tatah (tool for carv).

This Sungging Badar Duwung who then recognized as the root source of the Jepara's carving art which consecutively knowing in all over Indonesia and the world. According to history, he was too takes a part in the erection of mosque in Loram (a name of area in Kudus) and mosque of Menara Kudus.

Sungging Badar Duwung then devoted his skill to the surrounding community in Jepara as well as in Kudus and presented high skilled carvers that from time to time growth in numbers. This skill direct and indirect was useful in the process of developing the traditional house of Kudus.

The certainty of mentioned things were still need to be investigated furthermore. But for sure, the traditional house of Kudus has build and become one of the Kudus markers with its fabulous woodcarving.

Antique Traditional Kudus House

09/09/2008, 06:06 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House
The traditional house of Kudus is one of the traditional houses that formed as the human culture evolution that continuously occuring process acculturation and as the results of developing creation of the supporting community.

The outcome is a maginificent architectural living house, attractive, filled with meaning and socio cultural values that did not occur in the other places in Indonesia .

The architect mostly achieves the ideal process of culture combination and success to represent a unique colour of ur main pillars (as part of Joglo) and Soko Geder (one pillar). On the top of soko guru there are put tumpang songo (nine support) (it musn't be nine, it could be only three support (tumpang telu (tiga)) which depend on the capability of the owners), as the support of roof construction.

The roof construction of traditional house of Kudus shows the level of wealthy of the owner since cost to make the roof is the highest cost compare with any other parts of the house. The expensive cost was because of the motifs perfection and the carved style also the difficulty on the process to construct it.

The Pencu style roof (the towering roof) used to be made of Rumbia (a particular kind of palm leaves), but now more likely to be made of tiles. Kudus tiles often have special plant motifs, and there are the so-called genteng gajah (with elephant ornamentation) on the wuwungan (the topmost row of tiles), and the genteng raja (king tiles) which are beautifully decorated.

The design interior of the traditional house of Kudus looks simple and divided into Jogo Satru room as a guess room, which in the standard traditional house of Kudus the cover area is around 3 x 10 msq. In this room, the floor is lower around 1 m from the main room (inside room) and is a part of the fourth step or floor.

Then, inside room (jogan lebet) is a fifth step with area around 7 x 10 msq. A chair uses as the connection between the two rooms because of its level differences.and as partition between the two rooms used Gebyok.

Inside the inside room (jogan lebet), there are several rooms such as living room located below the joglo, then bedrooms and gedongan as the place to keep the heilroom and wealthy. Gedongan placed between inside room and pawon (kitchen) that located in the left or right of the house.

This pawon except use for cooking and dinner room, also use for the family activity, such as made of convection products and other home industries. In front of the pawon, precisely in the edge part of the yard placed well complete with the bathroom.

There are several types of doors in the traditional house of Kudus, there is one door, two door and sliding door. One door is usually for the kitchen, two doors in gebyok and the sliding door is in the front.


One thing that necessary to be noted is that traditional house of Kudus always build face to the south that full with the philosophy meaning and based on the natural rule of rational calculation.

A summer sweater - Tutorial

03/12/2008, 20:27 | Arts and Crafts Blog

This time, I´ll give you a complete tutorial to make a very nice sweater.

The first rows: double elastic stitch (10 rows).
After that rows: start the desing.

1st design row:

1 -Pass the first loop from left needle to right needle. (pic. a - b)

Pink Yarn step 1 pic. a

Pink Yarn step 2 pic. b
2 - Make one lace, as you can see in pic. c.
Pink Yarn step 3 pic. c
3 - Pass another loop from left needle to right needle. (pic. d) (*)

Pink Yarn step 4 pic. d
4 - Knit one stitch. (pic. e)
Pink Yarn step 5 pic. e
5 - Pass the third loop (the one you made on step 3) over the las one you knit. (pic. f)
Pink Yarn step 7 pic. f
6 - Knit three stitches (no pic)

7 - Knit two stitches together (pic. g)
Pink Yarn step 8 pic. g
8 - Make a lace.

9 - Knit one. (*)
10 - Make a lace

11 - and start all over again since the first * to the last *.
Pink Yarn step 9 Lace.

The last stitches of the row are: - Knit 2 stitches together - one lace - Knit one. (you have to finish like this if you want to follow this pattern)
2nd row: Purl all the row (including the lace loops - that way the little holes appears)
3rd row:

1 - Pass the first loop from left needle to right needle.
2 - Knit one
3 - One lace
4- Pass another loop from left needle to right needle. (*)
5 - Knit one
6 - Pass the fourth loop (the one you made on step 4) over the las one you knit.
7 - Knit one
8 - Knit two stitches together.
9 - Make a lace
10 - Knit three.
11 - Make a lace (*)

4th row:
Purl all the row.

5th row:

1 - Knit three.
2 - make a lace
3 - Pass one loop from left needle to right one (*)
4 - Knit two stitches together.
5 - Pass the third stitch over the two stitches you knt in step 4 - this way you close the upper angle of the triangle.
6 - Make a lace.
7 - Knit five stitches.
8 - Make a lace.
repeat from (*)

6 a 12 row : rice stitch

Start all over again from the first row of the design.

Here you can see a complete view of the pattern:
Pink sweater

And here a closer view of the “Lace” design.
Pink sweater closer

You have to use a thin yarn and thin needles to make this pattern.

Try it, it´s not so difficult and the outcome it´s great.

Kisses,

Fran

Visit this sites for more ideas: Knit n Purl Zen , Little Purl of the Orient.

Western Earth Knives

11/30/2006, 16:04 | The Wood Shop

 

WESTERN EARTH KNIVES


Unique handcrafted hunting knives custom tailored for you at WEK.

Photos Courtesy of Western Earth Knives                                            "The dagger"

Custom Handmade knives and sheaths, made to order, using materials of the earth: bone, antler, horn, brass, leather, exotic woods of the West, and only high quality high-carbon steel blades. Western Earth Knives are made using designs derived from the qualities of the earth and her creatures by Douglas Gilbert.

 

Douglas has been a painter and sculptor for 40 years. It is only recently in his life that he has come to specialize in knife making, continuing to exercise his love for the powerful qualities and images of the earth. He spent much of his youth in the woods, and whittling wood was one of his early interests. A temporary illness brought him to abandon the 9-to-5 work-world and to devote himself full time to his craft. He has two grown children, a loving psychologist wife, and lives in southwestern Washington state. For additional information or to talk directly with Douglas ...

 

Contact:

                           Douglas Gilbert, MFA, Artist/Knife maker

                            earthknives@hotmail.com
                            
360-501-6939

トレー/ tray

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Masashi's woodworking diary

1年生ã®ï¼“番目ã®èª²é¡ŒãŒã€ã“ã®ãƒˆãƒ¬ãƒ¼ã§ã™ã€‚
ã“ã®å®Ÿç¿’ã®ãŸã‚ã«ãƒ‡ã‚¶ã‚¤ãƒ³ã—ãŸã‚‚ã®ã§ã™ã€‚
日本ã®ã‚·ãƒ³ãƒ—ルãªãŠç›†ã‚‚考ãˆã¾ã—ãŸãŒã€å–ã£æ‰‹ã‚’ã¤ã‘ã¦ã‚„や洋風ã«ã—ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
å–ã£æ‰‹ã®éƒ¨åˆ†ã‚’機械ã§ãり抜ã加工を入れãŸã‹ã£ãŸãŸã‚ã§ã™ã€‚
The third project for the first year students is this tray, which I designed for the project.
First I thought of Japanese style simple tray but I put handles and made it rather Western style, for the students to learn how to use a router.



加工ã«ã¯ãƒ«ãƒ¼ã‚¿ãƒ¼ã¨ã„ã†æ©Ÿæ¢°ã‚’使ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚
ã¾ãšåˆæ¿ã§åž‹ã‚’ã¤ãりã€ãã®ä¸Šã«ææ–™ã‚’固定ã—ã¦ãƒ«ãƒ¼ã‚¿ãƒ¼ã«ã‹ã‘ã‚‹ã¨ã€ãã®åž‹ã©ãŠã‚Šã«å‰Šã‚‹ã“ã¨ãŒã§ãã¾ã™ã€‚倣ã„加工ã¨ã„ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚å°‚é–€ç”¨èªžã§æ²»å…·ï¼ˆã˜ã)ã¨å‘¼ã°ã‚Œã‚‹ã“ã®åˆæ¿ã®åž‹ã‚’ã¤ãã‚‹ã®ã‚‚ã€å®Ÿç¿’ã®ç›®çš„ã§ã™ã€‚
Students make a plywood template first. Then place a material on it and cut it according to the template. It is one of the purposes of this project to learn how to make the plywood template, or the 'router jig'.

学生ã¯ãれãžã‚Œã€å¥½ã¿ã®å½¢ã«å–ã£æ‰‹ã‚’ãり抜ãã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
éš…ã«ã¯ã€è£œå¼·ã®ãŸã‚ã®æ¿ã€Œã‹ã‚“ã–ã—ã€ã‚’入れã¾ã™ã€‚
Each student routed out their original shape.
The photo showing the keys to reinforce the mitred corner. It is called 'Kanzashi', hair ornaments, in Japanese woodworking.

Preparing the drawer cases (4)...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I have completed dimensioning, handplaning and scraping the surfaces of the panels for the drawer cases. The panels were longer in length than necessary, an extra length allowance of each of the panels comprises one side of each drawer case. These drawer case sides will be rabbeted into the top and bottom panels. The grain orientation of the drawer cases is similar to the cabinet top and bottom, this is purposely designed in to accommodate any expansion and contraction due to humidity changes in the ambient air. In the lower drawer case, the sides are somewhat longer to accommodate two drawers and a drawer divider. The hardwood drawer divider will be fitted into dadoed slots in the center of either side of the drawer case. Dadoes run perpendicular to grain orientation as opposed to grooves which run parallel to the grain orientation.

The drawer case sides, and top and bottom panels are oriented in the same direction to have the complete drawer case movement occur front to back similar to the cabinet itself. The drawer case sides need to be trimmed to size next and then a dado created in the dual drawer case. The drawer cases are assembled afterwards with careful attention to maintaining the drawer cases perfectly square. Once the assembly is complete, I will fit the drawer divider into its dado.

I'm anxious to begin work on the drawers and have yet to decide whether the drawer faces will be a contrasting color, most likely so. In this case, I need to find a wood which complements European Beech.

Laying out the drawer cases (1)...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I have had to take a short break from this project due to circumstances and other work in my schedule. I'm back on track with this cabinet now and I am in the process of laying out the configuration of the drawer cases. The original plan had one upper drawer at the top left and the two drawer assembly at the lower right. Upon reflection, I decided to configure the drawer cases differently as in the photo. This is somewhat of a staggered, stepped arrangement with the appearance of a floating drawer at the left with the original location of the two drawer case at the right. Since I have complete freedom to lay out the drawer cases as long as there is sufficient room above either of the drawer cases for art objects, I have taken this liberty in the design process.

At the left, beneath the single drawer case, I am also considering a false front which would appear as a solid piece of wood and is only removable through a hidden slot. This feature can be considered a secret compartment. I like the idea, but I also like the design of having the left drawer case appear to be floating as in the photo. I have mocked up the drawer cases with the empty compartment at the bottom left.

This is my current design dilemma and I will continue to experiment with the layout of the drawer cases.

Perspective on design...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
This is a previous post, but I never did continue the discourse. I find it fascinating how furniture design has evolved over the centuries. If we go back to the middle ages and the era before, quite a few developments in furniture construction techniques were in progress. Prior to this era, in the centuries before, very little furniture was available, it was considered a luxury to have chairs, tables and cabinets. The larger, more finely made furniture of this era was typically destined for the aristocracy of the time as a display of their wealth and status.

Most conventional furniture of these early periods was assembled without consideration to wood expansion and contraction or wood movement. This worked for many years, since the interior of buildings in this era was often at the same temperature as the exterior. With the advent of heated interiors, wood movement became much more of a factor to deal with in construction and design of furniture, and the practice of simply assembling wood planks together to form furniture needed to evolve. It was in the middle ages that frame and panel construction was adopted. This technique allowed a solid wood panel to literally float within a wood frame composed of rails and stiles. The solid wood panel could expand and contract on a seasonal basis, and not cause any structural failure within the furniture.

All of a sudden many more possibilities were created for furniture design and its widespread appeal began in earnest. Furniture also began to become more affordable as of the 18th and 19th century, more furniture makers existed and sound construction techniques began to become standardized. There are numerous periods over the past centuries and each of these had a style or styles associated with them. Additionally, each country had a style of its own within these periods. One can see how similar furniture design principles were adopted by successive countries over the different periods. Popular furniture styles which are widely recognized have familiar names such as English Chippendale, German Biedermeier, American Federal and Arts & Crafts, French Art Nouveau, Italian Rococo, etc. The evolution continues to more recent styles such as Modern Swedish ( Krenov style) and Contemporary styles.

One interesting tidbit is that a style of furniture is never really defined until the particular period has elapsed, almost like looking through a rear view mirror. Today's styles might be referred to as a particular period of style, but only after the period has lapsed. In the photo, a small swedish modern styled tabletop cabinet . To be continued...

Perspective on design (1)...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I sometimes ask myself, what constitutes good design. Is it the aesthetics of the piece, the pleasing proportions, the balance of form and function... or all these characteristics combined? Taking a step back, the aesthetics and pleasing proportions are definitely at the forefront. I'm usually drawn to a piece of furniture that stands out with respect to the "look" of the piece. This one characteristic causes me to stop and further examine the piece by trying to understand what has drawn me to this particular design over another design on the same page. This analysis helps me in my own design process as I better understand what characteristics of a piece of furniture I am drawn to. Of course, we all have different styles of furniture that we are drawn to, but the common theme is good design. I am convinced that even an admirer of period styles of furniture will stop at a well-designed modern piece of furniture to further analyze it.

We've all heard the saying that everything has already been discovered or invented. I have even heard of this saying applied to furniture design. After all, we're re-shaping the same objects over and over... adding curves, changing proportions, adding ornamentation, removing the ornamentation, using darker or lighter woods, utilizing curves, replacing curves with straight lines, utilizing thicker or thinner components, etc. It is easy to come to this conclusion, however, I regularly see new pieces of furniture that make me sit back and say "wow, that is an interesting design".. or "that is a cool design, I wonder if it's been done before". In light of this, I think the boundaries of design are limitless, one just needs to think outside the box. Also, I feel that often using pre-existing styles as templates for a new design sometimes handicaps the designer , the designer subconsciously has the existing style in mind and cannot get past it. Sometimes it is better to begin with a clean slate, in our case, a pad and pencil and begin to sketch without any existing furniture designs to influence our design. All for now...

Cabinet base design...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I'm picking up where I left off on the beech cabinet I began a few weeks ago. The cabinet itself is fairly complete except for three dovetailed drawers. I will build the drawers only after having decided on the type of wood to use for the cabinet base. The reason I am doing this is to bring some of the color from the cabinet base up to the cabinet itself. The very first step in this process is to select the type and color of wood to use for the base. I have the option of either making the base of the same wood (European beech) as the cabinet itself, or selecting a contrasting wood instead. If contrasting, how much variation in the color and grain pattern also.

I've been mulling over this for a few days now as I complete some smaller items in my studio. It is not a simple decision as it can affect the complete aesthetics of the piece. I need to consider if the eyes are going to be drawn away from the upper cabinet and how much so. I also need to design the cabinet and base to be in harmony with each other. I have the actual design in mind, the stumbling block now is the color and which wood to use for the base.

In the photo, I have a fairly large plank of mahogany I have kept for quite a while now. The plank is rift-sawn and has ribbons of color in it, although subtle. Using this wood would provide the base with a reddish-brown color once the patina of the wood has developed completely. This is something that should always be considered when selecting woods for a piece of furniture. after a number of months or years, what color will the wood finally attain. It is important when using two colors or tones of wood, as the initial contrast might either become subdued or more pronounced over time.

This is one option I have, to use this plank for the base components. I should decide in the next few days however...

A Peek at the Possibilities

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking Dungeon
Since I started working on the teacher's pen project, I have been thinking more about what else I can do to create more intricate designs for my pens. I also attended a local bowl turners group meeting earlier this week where one of the guys talked about how he makes his segmented bowls. That seemed to kick the old imagination into high gear.

Taking my first step into segementation with smaller pieces, I cut up some maple that I had already planed down to 1/8". I laminated these little pieces with an accent color and turned a sample.

This is what I've got:

This shows me that conceptually I'm on track. Now I need to work on putting together a full sized blank so I can complete a pen and see how it looks.

Each piece of maple is only 1/8" thick. To show the scale, I'm including this picture that has my sample next to a dime. The length of the sample if just over 1 inch. The diameter of the sample is just about 3/8". The final diameter of a slimline pen would be a little bit smaller than this.



Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll have some time to work on putting that full sized blank together.

Designer Wine Rack/Side Table with Wood Top in Scroll Style Structure

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furniture Craft

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Dowelling technique...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
In many of my cabinet assemblies I use dowels to attach the sides to the top and bottom. The use of dowels gives flexibility to the design of the corner joint. For example, I can offset the side panels away from the edge of the top or bottom and in the process work the protruding edge of the top and bottom into a shaped contour, chamfer, rabbet, etc. The alternative would be to use specific corner joints which need to have the side panel and top or bottom panel intersect right at the very edge. An example of this would be a dovetailed joint, a box joint, or a rabbet and lip edge. If you've ever read up on James Krenov and his work, you will find that he embraces the dowelled corner joint for these very same reasons. This is where I received the inspiration for this type of joint and its virtues.

Creating the doweled joint involves some measurement , but most importantly it involves the little jig you can see in the photo, the dowelling guide. This is a piece of wood with the exact dimensions of the panel I am dowelling, the length and thickness. The dowel holes are marked with arbitrary spacing and the dowel guide holes are bored out on the drill press. I use this dowelling guide to create the dowel holes on both of the mating surfaces , in this case the side panel and the top or bottom panel. There is some skill involved in aligning the dowelling guide to both surfaces since the holes for the dowels need to be perfectly aligned. Marking and orienting the dowelling guide to the correct edges becomes very important and I make many pencil marks in the process. The old adage, "measure twice , cut once" becomes "measure and mark three times, drill once". in this process.

Back panels...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
Much of my cabinet design and build process involves the creation of a cabinet back. Conventional wisdom says the back of a cabinet is not nearly as important as the front or sides, so it merely needs a panel which is rabbeted into the sides, top and bottom. The problem with this thinking is that it assumes the back of the cabinet will be placed against a surface or wall and never seen. This doesn't apply to all cabinets as many cabinets are designed as showcases which are away from walls, sometimes placed in the center of a room or even a foot or two away from a wall. Something also feels wrong about diminishing the importance of the back of a cabinet when so much emphasis is placed on the design and structure of the front and sides of the cabinet. With this in mind, the need for a more aesthetically nice cabinet back becomes important, along with the function that it introduces to the cabinet. An example of function is if the cabinet is a wall-mounted cabinet and needs a structurally strong back.

The resulting back panel which best meets the criteria of both aesthetics and function is the frame and panel back; a panel inset into a surrounding frame composed of rails and stiles. The frame and panel back is inset into the cabinet back much like a panel would be and in the process the frame and panel also provide some rigidity to the cabinet. In those situations where a single panel is too wide, a middle stile is installed to divide the frame into two halves, otherwise for smaller cabinets a single panel is sufficient. The panel itself can either complement or contrast the cabinet, providing an interesting focal point once the doors of the cabinet are opened, as well as drawing the eye to the pleasing back of the cabinet.

Cabinet stand...cont'd

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I have resumed work on the beech cabinet in the past few days. I've rethought the design of the cabinet stand and made some changes. The original design called for four upper rails mortised into the legs. I would need to have wider front, rear and side apron rails to maintain the strength and integrity of the stand. Rather than this, I have decided on narrower top apron rails and move some support to the bottom of the stand in the form of stretchers instead. The aesthetics of this are more pleasing to me, very much like dividing the load at the top and bottom of the cabinet stand.

The leg dimensions remain the same, instead I divide the original upper rails into two components per rail and use the narrower component at the bottom of the stand. The strength and integrity of the cabinet stand should be maintained with this design along with more pleasing aesthetics, and more subtle, smaller components. I should have the stand assembled within the next day or two. In the meantime, I need to replace one of the components in the stand, a front top rail. In the handplaning effort I was a bit overzealous with this particular rail and the dimensions are no longer right, a little too thin. Rather than handplane the other rails to this dimension, I would rather replace this rail instead.

With significant hand planing, it becomes more important to maintain keen edges on the plane irons. The dullness of the irons sneaks up on you, and before you know it the handplane is struggling to produce fine shavings. I stop occasionally to sharpen the plane irons, otherwise the temptation is to increase the depth of cut with dull irons and all of a sudden they grab and tearout follows.

It's amazing how much the weather has changed in the span of two to three weeks in these parts. It was early fall weather a few days ago, now I hear some wet snow is arriving overnight. It should be nothing significant and late fall will resume, I hope.

Cabinet stand...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I assembled the stand and am test fitting it in the photo a few hours after glue up. It fits well and is in very good alignment with the cabinet. This is a concern otherwise the stand looks more like an afterthought than designed with the cabinet if it doesn't fit right. The twin stretchers at the bottom work out well and introduce a small focal point into the design. It is quite a small feat getting the rails and stretchers in position for the glue up and a good point to stop and plan this out well. I assembled the sides initially, then put everything together with the front and rear rails and stretchers. The upper and lower rails are mortised into the legs with single tenons, whereas the twin stretchers are dowelled into the bottom side rails.

I am quite pleased at the aesthetics of the piece and the harmony between the cabinet and stand. I needed to spend some time at the edge treatment phase of all the stand components. The edges of each component are slightly chamfered with a small hand plane, then the edge transition is touched with a very fine sanding block to knock out any sharp edges. Since this is all done by hand, I find myself counting the exact number of strokes with the hand plane, in this case two. It is recommended that all the components be completed in one pass to avoid confusion. In other cases, where multiple passes are necessary, counting the handplane strokes is a good technique.

The stand is also beech and all the front and side facing components have non-descript grain pattern, straight grain for the most part, to not introduce any crazy graphics which take away from the main focal point, the cabinet.


I'm kind of anxious at this point to complete the interior of the cabinet, create the drawers and a small partition, then the pulls, so I can begin to apply finish. I'm curious to see how the figure of the door panels comes out. Of course, I can always wet the surfaces with naptha to temporarily see the figure pop, but I can wait a few more days.


I had a little deliberation deciding on the final height of the cabinet and settled for a 55 inch height , along with a second opinion from my better half. Having the piece too low and it begins to look like a credenza , too high and the stand begins to look spindly. I also wanted to provide an opportunity to see the cabinet as a whole, including a partial view of the top. Accessibility and visibility of the cabinet interior is also important as this is somewhat of a showcase cabinet, and my wife and I did take this into consideration.

Drawer fronts...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I've been busy gathering the right wood for the drawer fronts, sides and bottoms. Drawer fronts will be Sapele, a fine-grained wood in the mahogany family. As part of the drawer front fitting, I cut the fronts oversize in thickness, width and length and then proceed to shoot the ends so they fit the drawer opening just right. I follow the same process with the width of the drawer front, handplaning and tuning it down to size. Prior to this, I had planed the thickness of the drawer fronts to fit the opening. The drawer front of the upper right hand set will overhang the divider providing a seamless look, I designed the divider to be shorter than the drawer opening by the thickness of a drawer front. Next, I begin dovetailing the drawer sides into the fronts and then create the grooves for the drawer bottom, in thi