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Interview with Tim McCready
09/10/2008, 02:57 | A Woodworking OdysseyTim McCready?long-time cabinet maker, author of The Wood Mechanic blog, and president of Bankston & Bailey LLC, a fine woodworking shop in Virginia?commented on one of my entries, and during the resulting off-blog conversation I mentioned wanting to start a series of interviews and shop tours with dedicated woodworkers. Tim agreed to be the first interview. I think when you read the interview you'll be happy he did.
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How did you start woodworking?
I started woodworking completely by chance. Through a mutual friend, I came to Harrison (Higgins)'s attention right when his shop needed an extra pair of hands. For the first several months I didn't do much but catch boards coming out of machines. He had a contract job making furniture for one of the hotels at Colonial Williamsburg, and he needed one more grunt laborer.What is the first project you completed that inspired pride?
One aspect of the job was a production run of roughly 100 maple pencil post beds. Rough 8/4 lumber would be sawn and dressed into 8-foot blanks 1 ľ? square in cross section. The blanks would be marked then mortised for headboards and rails as required. The tapers were cut on the bandsaw, and holes were bored for bed bolts.
Once all of this relatively interesting work was done, and a giant pile of pencil posts had materialized on a pair of saw horses in the middle of the shop floor, an apprentice had to remove the machine marks with a hand plane and sand each facet of the post for an eternity.
Guess who got that job! It was extreme drudgery, but I did learn how to use a plane effectively. Eventually I also learned how to carve the lamb's tongue that marked the transition from the tapers to the lower, flat section of the posts.
The first piece I can remember feeling proud of was a desk I made for myself after hours at Harrison's shop. It's still my main desk, but now all I see are its flaws and its telltale signs of having been made by a not-yet-very-skilled amateur. Luckily, though, I feel a certain sense of satisfaction?if not pride?whenever I make something well.
I know I've made something well when there's a seamlessness that proceeds from the initial daydreaming through the design and fabrication and finally the finish. It's a good feeling. I wish I could say I felt it with every project, but I don't. My mood and mindset seem to have at least as much to do with my work's quality as any objective skill level I may possess.
You mention working with Harrison Higgins, a talented furniture maker who specializes in reproduction work. Can you tell us more about how you came to work for him, and what you remember most about your time in his shop?
A guy named Lewis who worked at Harrison's shop in the early 90's had seen my band play, and he and I had several mutual friends in the Richmond music scene. I ran into him outside the shop once on my way to the post office, and he invited me in to see the place.When you worked with Harrison, it sounds like you learned a ton. What was it like working with him?
Harrison and his partner Alan (the finisher) didn't want anything to do with me. They saw a skinny shaven-headed punk kid, and they didn't figure I'd be a very reliable worker if I was going to be out at all hours doing the band thing. They only hired me because they just really needed that extra pair of hands.
In retrospect I see all of this as having been one of the most fortuitous events of my life. Alan and Harrison are still two of my best friends and have been like additional fathers to me--although maybe big brothers would be more like it.
What I remember most about my time at Harrison's shop is the relationships with the other people. There were between 6 and 9 of us while I worked there ('92-'98), and while not all of the personalities meshed, we did manage to get along reasonably well and to produce some of the finest woodworking I've seen.
Sometimes there was a quasi-monastic aspect to the place, when everyone was at his bench doing handwork and there was no music or machine work. On the other hand, we could act like a bunch of total nitwits at times as well, and I have a slew of funny and extremely fond memories of my time there.
Harrison moved his shop a couple of years ago, and I started mine right around the corner. So I still see everyone there a few times a week. I wish everyone could have some kind of work experience like that, where they're making something tangible with trustworthy, kind people.
It was a big mix of things. He remains one of my very closest friends, and as my shop is just a few blocks from his, I see him often. As much as anything, he was a kind of second father/big brother to me. Most of what I gained in my time with him was personal, although I don?t mean to down-play the importance of learning my trade.In one of your blog posts you mentioned having a Festool TS 75. Do you find it was worth the price? What can you tell those of us that cringe at the price of Festool products, but wonder if they might just be worth it?
He?s a weird teacher. He is so much more visual than verbal, so for example, when asked how he carves ball-and-claw feet, he once answered, ?Well, I just take away everything that doesn?t look like a ball or a claw.? All of us who know him well enjoy razzing him about this tendency of his.
The Festool TS 75 would be worth twice its price for what I do. I use it constantly for rough sizing sheet goods before I cut them to their final size on the tablesaw. It's so much easier and safer that way. If I didn't work alone, I'm not sure I'd need it since there would be someone around to help me move full sheets around. As it is, it's an incredibly useful tool. I've used it to crosscut 12/4 maple (in two cuts), to crosscut table leaves, and all sorts of other things.You bought an amazing 72" straight edge at an auction, and I know you have an old 12" jointer. What other old "treasures" do you have? Are there any that you can't live without?
One of the things I find amazing about the TS 75 is that it cuts bevels so accurately. Somehow they engineered it so that when it tilts over, it still cuts exactly along the guide rail's line. Because of that it can be used to cut long mitered parts quite accurately.
I also have the Festool Domino which I find indispensable in my case work. Once I've bored the holes for the domino I find that my cases go together pretty much like legos. The Domino, however, isn't as precisely engineered as it could be. There's something slightly wonky about guidelines indicating center on the cutter; I haven't quite put my finger on it yet. In any event, I use it all the time and it's a big time saver. I had hoped that it would eliminate the need for a mortiser, and so far it has. I think, though, that it would be very hard to do the large mortises necessary for, say a bed without a mortiser.
In general, my philosophy is "Cry once when you buy a tool instead of crying the thousands of times you actually have to use it." This is not an original idea of mine--I read something similar in an online forum somewhere, and I found that it rang true.
There's really only one other treasure, a pattern maker's combination square. We used to consider it the square of reference at Harrison's shop, and for a long time while I was doing work besides cabinetmaking, my friend Reid was in possession of it. He was displeased when I reclaimed it. I suppose it's comparable to a new, top-of-the-line Starrett.You have worked in a professional woodshop, and in your own "shop" at home. At one time, the home shop was just your back porch with a handful of portable tools. What techniques, if any, carried over from the professional shop to the back porch? And what would you say are the ESSENTIAL tools for the back porch craftsman?
I use my Lie-Nielsen low-angle block plane a lot. It's the only very nice plane I have, and it was well worth the initial investment. I'm considering buying their #4 to replace the #4 Record I've always been lukewarm about.
I wish I had more nice stuff, but that's always a work in progress.
Only the basic ways of thinking about case building transferred to that piece I built on the deck, specifically the marking system I use to keep parts straight. Everything else was improvised. Honestly, that wasn't very enjoyable, and I wasn't very pleased with the results. Plus it was really cold!Did you ever build the incredible gazebo you mocked up, with the fir mantle and built in fireplace? I want one ;)
If one had no choice but to have a knockdown shop in the back yard, my best advice would be to build a flat reference surface. A solid torsion box does the trick. Fine Woodworking online has articles about how to do it. Without a flat surface, building square cases is nearly impossible.
Heck no!!! Sometimes my wife and I dream big...what can I say? I do want to mock that up in SketchUp now that I'm proficient. We were thinking that if we ever built that it would become our main living room. The best part would be that the cats wouldn't be invited!
In 2006 you described a table you built like this: "The drawer is pulled from the underside, so it appears to just be an apron. I love hidden things like that." What other hidden features have you built? Have you ever hidden something in the architectural moldings you build at work?I once made a blanket chest for my niece, which has a hidden compartment that houses a key. I kept the lock. I always thought it would be fun to send her on a scavenger hunt later in her life where she?d have to decipher clues. The key?s location would be one of the final clues, and the lock would secure some kind of treasure. Anyhow, that was my intention when I made the chest.I loved the parquetry you did (or was it inlay?) on the toy chest: you know, the one with the faux finish that looked like jade. I guess that's not a question, but there you have it.
A good friend of mine has a beautiful William and Mary highboy with a hidden map drawer. The crown molding along the front of the piece is actually the drawer face. I love that!
That?s actually a faux finish simulating malachite. A good friend of mine is an expert faux finisher and gilder, and she walked me through that process. It was not difficult although it was fairly involved. One drags a piece of leather through the dark paint to create those swirls. People either love or hate that chest. I admit that it is a bit much.
What is your favorite of all the pieces you've built?That?d probably be the serpentine top Federal Pembroke table.
In 2006 you built 6 cupolas and said "framing the first cupola base took four hours. The subsequent five only took an hour and a half apiece." Is this typical?
I think that the time savings after the first instance of any multiple is just what comes naturally. Making the first element involves a lot of thinking, checking, double-checking, and correcting. Usually the subsequent parts become second nature to crank out. The cupolas were an extreme example. I?d never made anything like those before, so the first one took a lot longer while I figured out what in the heck I was doing.You finally opened your own shop last year and stopped working for someone else. Can you tell us a bit about what led you to that decision, and how did you get the courage to finally do it?
I had become very bored at the large architectural millwork shop at which I was working in ?06 and ?07. That business was closely tied to the mortgage market, and the big developers who ordered custom goods from the shop were some of the first to take the sub-prime nosedive.After a year in business for yourself, what can you tell us about owning your own shop? What surprised you most about being the proprietor?
A lot of those big developers work on very flimsy financing, as it turns out. The net effect for me at that shop was that there was literally no work to do. For a variety of reasons too boring to detail here, the company not only remained in business, but it also didn?t lay anyone off or even reduce hours. Many people I worked with considered it a great arrangement, but I can?t imagine anything worse than clocking in at 7:30, standing around all day, then clocking out at 5:00.
At first I started taking work on the side, and when that went well, I finally jumped ship. I suppose?per your question?that a certain amount of courage was involved, but mostly I am motivated by the avoidance of boredom.
The biggest surprise of owning my own business is the intensity of the psychology of pricing. I?ve been surprised when very wealthy clients have balked at what I consider very fair prices. I?ve bitten my nails thinking I?d bid too high on something, not heard from the client for a month, and then gotten the work after all. It drives me crazy, and I think it probably drives my wife crazy hearing about it all the time. I?ve gotten jobs and later learned that my bid was twice that of the next guy, and I?ve lost bids to lower bidders. It doesn?t seem to make any sense.Were there things you should have thought about and didn't?
Hands down, the hardest part of this is the worry over whether or not new work will be coming along.
There have been many other lessons along the way, most of which boil down to the importance of sitting down and rationally considering problems before taking action. Doing so has been especially helpful in deciding which equipment purchases to make. I?d love to call Lee Valley and tell them to send me one of everything, but obviously if I did that the only business I?d be able to operate is a giant yard sale!
Not really. But only because I?ve been thinking about doing this for so long! It?s not that there haven?t been challenges, it?s just that I had already had the opportunity to think through the big issues.You're building your dream shop (I think). What have you done right? What have you done (if anything) that you would have avoided?
I rent a 1,200 sq. ft. space which is about right for a one-man shop, so that was a good decision. I shopped around until I found a good combination of low rent and good location. I only buy tools and machines as I need them for projects, and I do my best to build equipment costs into bids. I have bought a mix of top-of-the-line new equipment (Laguna, Festool) and solid old equipment (a jointer from 1910, a late 80?s Delta table saw). I haven?t sprung for central dust collection yet which has its upside (saved money) and downside (lots of dust)!You just landed a contract for the Virginia state capitol. Can you tell us about what you're doing for them, and how you plan to approach it?
So far, so good. There?s nothing I?ve done that feels like a big mistake just yet. Give me some time, and we?ll see what I can goof up!
Over the past five years or so, our state capitol has undergone an amazing renovation and expansion. In the new area, which is underground, there are two gallery spaces, each roughly 1,600 square feet. There was a bit of a rush to finish the construction for the big Jamestown 400 year celebration and the visit of Queen Elizabeth.In one blog post, you suggested that degree programs for furniture making are impractical at best, and possibly damaging to the graduates (I'm reading a lot into your comment, I know). Assuming I read your meaning correctly, what would you say to graduates of these programs that might help them once they get into the working world?
During that rush, there was little time for curatorial decision making in the gallery spaces. Basically, the decision makers in charge are getting to that now, and I?ve designed?and will soon start fabricating?the museum case pieces which will begin to unify the aesthetic of the galleries. They?re simple, veneered cases with acrylic vitrines and will house art objects and architectural models. There is also one massive piece (roughly 8? wide and 12? tall) that will display four flags on flagpoles.
Once I?ve made final drawings in SketchUp, I?ll cut pieces to rough size, edgeband the top edges, veneer the backs with poplar, veneer the fronts with anigre, miter the outside edges, and assemble the cases with band clamps and glue.
Truncated pyramids will sit inside the cases, and vitrines will fit precisely between the inside case edges and the outside edges of the pyramids. Some cases (like the one displaying a large marble bust) will require additional structure inside to accommodate the objects. That?s the basic idea.
I'm not sure I've been completely fair about this, but here is the fundamental problem I?ve noticed: Many of these programs teach people how to do top-notch work, but at a snail?s pace. I remember a job applicant who had just finished at North Bennett coming to Harrison?s shop. He showed us a photograph of a gorgeous Federal demilune table with all manner of amazing veneers and stringing. So far, so good. But when Harrison asked him how long it took him to make it, he replied, ?Six months.? At $50/hour, six months of shop time is in the $50,000 range, which nobody gets for an occasional table.
In my view, places like North Bennett would be optimal for independently wealthy people or retirees who want to become highly-skilled amateur woodworkers. I?m not sure it?s the place to go if the goal is starting one?s own woodworking business. Once again, I?m not sure this is entirely fair, and I would hope that the people at North Bennett would be prepared to answer this line of questioning candidly.
Sometimes people who go through fine woodworking programs wind up with a smug attitude about the superiority of their craftsmanship. I?ve seen this several times. Here in Richmond we have a highly ranked art school at VCU. I took a woodworking class in the Crafts Department, and the TAs there were just insufferable! I quickly found that I knew more about actually making furniture after my few months working for Harrison than they seemed to have accumulated up to that point in their lives. I sincerely doubt that any of those guys have successfully run their own shops. Successfully running a shop involves much more than meticulous craftsmanship.
I did work with two graduates of a highly regarded woodworking program at Rockingham Community College in North Carolina. Those guys came out of that program knowing how to work in real-world situations, and their level of craftsmanship was very high.
All of that having been said, if I had to advise graduates of woodworking programs as to how to proceed, I?d say "find a successful high-end furniture maker wherever you live or want to live, and if you have a halfway decent feeling about him or her personally, beg for an apprenticeship." If the answer is ?no?, offer to work for minimum wage. If the answer is still ?no?, offer to cover the workmen?s comp costs he encounters upon hiring you.
Here?s the thing, though: This is what I would advise someone to do BEFORE going to a fancy and expensive woodworking program!
_____________________________________________________________I hope this will be the first in a long series of interviews and shop tours. If you, or someone you know, would be willing to grant an interview or photographic shop tour, please let me know through the comments feature of this entry.
All photographs in this interview copyright and courtesy of Tim McCready and Bankston & Bailey LLC.
Forme Design and the Last Supper
09/03/2008, 15:40 | Arts & Mysteries with Adam Cherubini - Blog 
There are a couple different configurations of period joined stools and formes. The forme I made recently features a lower stretcher that connects the legs. This is a standard English style. Formes with a central stretcher are also known. In this case, the stretcher is in the middle of the forme, directly under the seat and ties to the end stretchers.
Period formes are often a bit taller than I made mine (my log was only 35" long, just tall enough to get two legs out of each riven piece). People put their feet on the lower stretchers to keep them off of the cold floor, which may have been earthen or stone in the 17th c, but likely cold in any time.
In use, I find the stretcher connecting the legs a bit problematic. You can't get your feet very close to the table when serving. This is a problem period servers didn't have. Dining in the 17th c often looked a bit like the famous painting of the Last Supper, with Christ and his disciples all seated on one side of a long table. I always thought this was artistic license, allowing Da Vinci the ability clearly show each disciples face. But in fact, this is the way many people of that time (Da Vinci's time, not Christ's) ate. They were seated on one side of a table and served from the other.
Attitudes about dining and servitude changed (thankfully) and people began eating at more egalitarian oval tables. They were served plates of food or elegant serving dishes that allowed them to serve themselves.
As we design and build period furniture, it can be helpful to learn the context in which the originals were used. I was supposed to build two or three of these formes, at least one long forme and possibly two shorter. I've only finished the one thus far. I'll move that one to the far side of the table against the wall so I can better serve my disciples their chicken nuggets and mac and cheese.
? Adam
Washing Machine
08/22/2008, 13:50 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House"Wize? will give you some reviews for a different washing machines and give you details according to released date, washer type, load type, control features, and pros. There are also will give a distinct image of the washing machine and its price ranges. It shows a survey result which will give you an idea if that washing machine is the best for your own personal usage.
Visit ?Wize? now for detail info!
Skew Miter
08/13/2008, 20:15 | Philsville
HI Folks
Just finished a plane I haven't made for a while - a skew mouth miter plane.
This one is for a customer in the States and is made from Goncalo Alves. It features a 6mm thick iron, 50mm wide and has a 38 degree bed with a 20 degree skew.
The skewed bed is a lot of extra work (and the math a real brain-ache!) but the plane performs really well and the skew is a real feature on the shooting board.
Cheers
Philly
How to Buy a $1 Chisel (And How Not)
07/04/2008, 03:18 | Lost Art Press Blog 
No matter how much (or little) money you have, if you are clever enough you can score an exquisite chisel for about $1.
I was reminded this week when I picked up some items on eBay and had to take a few extra unwanted items in the lot, including three plastic-handled chisels. Two of them were Craftsman chisels that were dead ringers for my grandfather?s 1970s-era tools.
The third was a Stanley 1-1/4?-wide 720 chisel with a translucent yellow handle and steel striking button on its end. Normally chisels like this wouldn?t warrant a second look in a flea market box. But if you take a close look at these 720s, you could end up with an excellent worker.
The trick is to know what?s important and what?s not. Here?s my short list of the key features:
1. The handle has to be comfortable for paring or chopping. The 720 passes this test with flying colors. Its vague Coke-bottle-shaped grip falls right into your fingers in both positions. In fact, when gripping it for chopping, the chisel is comfortable only when your index finger is out of the way of the striking button. The only disadvantage of the 720's handle is that it gets a little slippery when your hands get sweaty.
2. The chisel has to be balanced when you grip the tip of the blade like a pencil (this is the grip for holding the tool for positioning it for light chopping). The 720 is a tad top-heavy for this operation. It?s not unusable, but it's not perfect.
3. The steel should be easy to sharpen and keep a decent edge. Chisels that are too hard take too long to hone. The 720s are good steel. I bought a couple of these early on in the craft and have also sharpened those belonging to students. They?re good steel.
4. The long edges should be narrow. Very narrow. This is where most mid-priced chisels fail. The narrow side-bevels allow you to sneak into the acute corners of the tail portion of dovetail joints. The 720s are generally very good about this. The one I just bough has side bevels smaller than 1/16?. Nice.
Oh, and there?s one more important characteristic: The chisel has to be fairly rust-free (especially on the unbeveled face side). This particular example is a miserable failure as it probably spent a few years in the bottom of a chum bucket. I cleaned the scaling off with a Klingspor Sandflex block and took a look. Craters everywhere.
Oh well, what do you want for $1?
? Christopher Schwarz
Prototype 18th c style firming chisels shipping
07/03/2008, 17:29 | Arts & Mysteries with Adam Cherubini - Blog 
I've been working on making chisels for close to 9 months now. I've finally made up a number of sets for review. As comments come back, I'll make some final tweaks. If the reviewers simply don't care for these, this product will likely die on the vine. But if everything works out as I expect, I should be able to offer 18th c style firming chisels with features and sizes that make sense for the work we do. These won't be clones of other chisels on the market. They are a new look at what chisels are for, what features they should have, what matters and what doesn't. My hope is that they offer serious woodworkers a new perspective on the oldest woodworking tool.
Adam
Here's What You Missed
04/10/2008, 00:00 | DMWA Club NewsDesigner Wine Rack/Side Table with Wood Top in Scroll Style Structure
12/31/2007, 09:23 | Furniture Craft
- Designer Wine Rack w/Wood Top in Scroll Style Structure
- Dining and Kitchen
- 0-2 Days for processing, and ships in 3 day(s) via Ground Shipping.
- Dining and Kitchen - Wine Racks
- v167d-2591
- BUY NOW
Deluxe Pyrex 10-pc. Storage Set
12/31/2007, 09:18 | Furniture Craft
- Refrigerator, oven and microwave safe10-pc. set
- 10-pc. set
- Vented plastic covers
- BUY NOW
Colorful Glass Photo Coaster Set with Rack - 5 Piece
12/31/2007, 09:15 | Furniture Craft
- Rubberized feet on storage rack and each coaster to prevent scratching.
- Wood holder; glass coasters.
- 4" x 2 1/2" x 4" high.
- BUY NOW
Catskill Craftsmen Wood Pastry Board with Baking Graphics
12/31/2007, 09:12 | Furniture Craft
- Roll out pie crusts to exact dimensions
- Reverses to plain side for other projects
- Measures 16 by 22 by 3/4 inches and weighs just over 6-1/2 pounds
- Wash with warm, soapy water; occasionally restore with mineral oil
- Includes 1-year warranty
- BUY NOW
TV Tray Set - Natural
12/31/2007, 09:02 | Furniture Craft
- Solid, natural wood
- Coordinates with other Furio collection kitchen accessories
- 4 trays and storage stand
- Solid wood with natural finish
- 26.5Hx19.25Wx14.5D"
- BUY NOW
FEIN Launches the New Generation of MultiMasters
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Highland Woodworking Blog
FEIN, the premium manufacturer of professional and reliable power tools is pleased to introduce its latest MultiMaster generation. The universal system for interior work and renovations is now significantly more convenient to use thanks to the new QuickIN tool changing system, and newly developed accessories that further extend the range of possible applications.
Since 1986, the FEIN MultiMaster has been selling with enormous success all over the
world. More than 40 years of experience in oscillating power tools has gone into the
development of the new FEIN MultiMaster. This new generation supersedes the previous
MSx 636 II (Start) and MSxe 636 II (RS and XL) models and strengthens FEIN's market
leadership in oscillating power tools.
The versatile and precise special tool assists professionals and homeowners working on interior fittings, tile restoration, window restoration, laying floor coverings or assembling furniture. The MultiMaster can also easily handle repair work on cars and boats as well as model building work. One single tool can sand, profile sand and rasp, polish, saw, scrape, cut and cut out, file and sharpen.
Features:
- New Starmount spindle provides high torque transfer
- New ergonomic design with non-slip softgrip
- New more powerful motor
New CD: The Best of Arts & Crafts
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Popular Woodworking
The
revival of the Arts & Crafts Movement isn’t just in the furniture store. Woodworkers
of all levels of experience have named it one of their favorite styles to build in
their workshops. Why? Clean lines and honest joinery.So we've put together a new CD that features our 49 favorite articles from Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine from the last decade that deal with this important furniture movement.
All of the articles on the CD are in pdf format, so you can view them on any computer with the free Acrobat Reader program. Plus you can print the articles out and take them to the shop when you're ready to build.
If you've never used any of our magazines' articles in pdf format, we'd like to give you a sample for free. We think you'll be pleased. To give it a try, simply click on the link below to download the complete plans for Gustav Stickley's No. 72 Magazine Cabinet, a very popular project from our April 2003 issue.
Magazine_Cabinet.pdf
(1.66 MB)
Here's what else you'll find on this CD, which is available in our store for $15 (that includes free shipping in the United States).
â– 42 Furniture Projects: We feature comprehensive plans and cutting lists for
a complete suite of furniture for your home, including two Morris chairs, sideboards,
side tables, bookshelves, outdoor furniture as well as home accessories, including
lamps and wastebaskets. Every project includes step-by-step instruction and measured
drawings.
â– 7 Technique Articles: Arts & Crafts furniture uses straightforward joinery
like the mighty mortise and tenon. We show you a wide variety of ways to cut this
essential joint, plus articles on achieving an Arts & Crafts finish with home-center
materials and detailed plans for the jigs and fixtures that will make your shop time
more efficient.
This CD is in stock and ready to ship. To order your copy, visit our store today.
— Christopher Schwarz
New Forstner Bits Defy the Laws of Physics
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Popular Woodworking
It’s hard to imagine that someone today could come up with a better Forstner bit –
they were first patented in 1874.
But today we used a new Forstner from a German company called Horst Miebach that chewed
through wood like nothing I’ve ever seen.
The bit – unveiled at the International Woodworking Fair – was set to bore into the
end grain of a chunk of white oak. I advanced the bit and it started throwing out
shavings that looked like tiny ribbons – very unusual. Even more unusual is that as
I fed the bit faster, it just kept diving into the wood. No matter how hard I tried,
I couldn’t overfeed the bit.
The MaxiCut bit – sold under the Colt brand name – has several unusual features that
make it work so well. Its exterior rim has been cut away to leave two saw-like teeth
to score the perimeter of the hole. This, according to company officials, reduces
the build-up of heat, which reduces the life of the bit.
Also, the cutting lips of the bit have grooves ground into them. These grooves, which
the company calls “chipbreakers,” turn the big shavings that are typical of Forstner
bits into little ribbons. These ribbons are easily extracted from the hole. This also
increases the life of the bit and allow it to be fed faster into the work.
As a result of these improvements, these high-speed steel bits can last five times
as long as regular bits, according to Jurgen Miebach, managing director of Horst Miebach.
Another impressive feature of the MaxiCut bit is the shank that you chuck into your
drill. The shank has three slight cams ground into it. These cams lock the bit into
the three jaws of your drill press’s chuck – or into the drill extension offered as
an accessory. The rotation of the chuck locks the bit into place thanks to the cams.
The bits will be available in both metric and Imperial measurements in these ranges:
14mm to 55mm and 1/2” to 2-1/4”. A typical 1-3/8” bit should cost $35 – about the
price of a typical premium Forstner.
Horst Miebach has been lining up U.S. distributors for the bits, which should be available
in October. We’ve asked for a set to test, and we eagerly await their arrival.
— Christopher Schwarz
The Fretboard Journal is now available at Highland Woodworking
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Highland Woodworking Blog
July 18, 2008 Atlanta, GA. Highland Woodworking is pleased to announce the addition of The Fretboard Journal to their collection of woodworking books, magazines and DVDs. An important journal for luthiers and instrument enthusiasts, the quarterly publication is archival quality and chronicles the most innovative fretted instruments and instrument makers of the last 150 years. Fretboard's writers, historians and photographers from around the world provide well researched and insightful stories highlighting the best players and the most interesting tales in music.
The Summer 2008 Fretboard Journal features David Grisman's Chris Thile interview, details about veteran luthier Rick Turner's Compass Rose acoustic guitar and examines the tradition behind Kamaka ukuleles. The Fretboard Journal published by Jason Verlinde is a magazine for musical instrument makers, players, collectors.
Highland Woodworking, Atlanta, GA USA is a purveyor of fine woodworking tools and supplies with a 30 year reputation for quality tools and service. It is the exclusive source of the Wood Slicer Resawing Bandsaw blade, voted by Fine Woodworking Magazine as the best resaw blade available. Highland Woodworking is a trusted source of woodworking education and information. A schedule of woodworking classes and detailed product information is available at highlandwoodworking.com. Highland Woodworking 1045 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta, GA 800-241-6748.
Sharpening Jigs
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com Okay, you’ve seen your share of sharpening jigs. And they all seem to work pretty good. Well, I guarantee you’ve never seen anything quite like this before: The Sharpening Box. (At least I never have!)
Last night, I watched Gary Blum, a cabinetmaker and toolmaker from Walnut, IA., demonstrate the jig and I have to say, I was impressed. You can read more about the jig at Gary’s website: Blum Tool Co.
According to information on the site, “…the jig consists of a box made of UHMW plastic that is both a honing surface and a storage box for the stones. It has an adjustable angle block which is set in relation to the top honing surface.”
A couple of features that make it unique:
- The angle for honing is set directly from a scale and is easily changed
- The tool has no jig attached to it
- The tool stays set and the stone is moved - a much easier motion
- The stone can be used laterally and in a circular motion as well as back and forth - therefore, the flatness of the stone is not as critical as a back and forth motion, and the edge can be made sharper and longer lasting
- Much shorter and narrower stones can be used very effectively
- The tool references on its back, which is the widest and flattest side
- Can hone angled edges as easily as straight
- Can sharpen very short cutters as well as short cutter with handles, such as butt chisels or Japanese chisels
- Self-contained and portable-stones store inside of box
- Can sharpen scraper blades at a true 90 degree angle very easily and repeatedly - “filing” is done with a diamond stone
- Jig is entirely waterproof for water-stone sharpening
By the way, Gary also makes some pretty cool hand planes as well.
Yet Another Polyurethane Glue — With a Difference
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com 
There’s the old standby: Gorilla Glue. And there’s Elmer’s Ultimate Glue. And Bolder Bond. Now there’s another polyurethane glue on the market: Rhino Ultra Glue made by the folks at Liquid Nails.
Rhino Ultra Glue shares some of the same characteristics as other polyurethane glues: it’ll bond just about anything. But there is one important difference. This stuff sets up fast. After 40 minutes, you can “plane it, sand it, and stain it” as their bottle says. But get this — If you dampen the surface of the material to be bonded first, Rhino Ultra Glue sets up in half that time. That means that you only need to clamp it for 20 minutes.
There’s another difference. It’s higher-viscosity (thicker) formulation means it won’t run as easily as some other polyurethane glues. That’s real handy on complicated glue-ups where traditional glues run away from your joints before you can get things clamped together.
But what I like most about this product is the bottle. That’s right. The bottle has a flat side so you can store it on it’s side. That means that the glue will last longer because air can’t get to it. When the folks from Liquid Nails showed us this, we all said, “It’s about time.”
And there’s the long nozzle that helps get the glue where you need it. You can read all about the unique bottle features here.
More Jig Saws from Makita
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com 
In a previous post, I talked about the new professional jig saw by Makita. Well, they’ve got two more they’re introducing to the market.
Both jig saws feature anti-vibration technology for over 40% reduced vibration and noise than competitive models. The Makita 4350FCT (shown at left) and 4351FCT (shown on the right)Â combine power and superior feel, with less vibration and noise. Both jig saws include three orbital settings plus a straight-cut setting, 
and are powered by a 6.3 AMP motor for cutting in all varieties of materials. The electronic variable speed control maintains consistent speed throughout the cut for superior results.
Makita also engineered comfort and control features into the new jig saws. An L.E.D. light illuminates the line of cut, while a built-in dust blower clears the line of cut for greater visibility. The ergonomically designed rubberized grip on both the top handle and barrel grip models provides greater comfort and control. The 4351FCT model features a rubberized barrel grip design to provide a closer grip to the work surface during cutting.
The patented tool-less blade change system provides fast and easy installation and removal of tang-shank blades. The die-cast aluminum base adjusts up to 45 degrees right or left with a positive stop at 90 degrees for solid cutting performance. An on-board hex wrench is included for fast, accurate bevel adjustments. Both models are ideal for professional woodworkers, cabinetry makers, and specialized residential construction workers. They include a blade set, anti-splintering device, cover plate, and tool case.Â
Versa-Clamp is a Handy Shop Tool
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comÂ
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I remember about a year or so ago, Tony Schrank called me. His uncle had patented a new type of clamping system called the VersaClamp™. Tony and his brother designed it for manufacturing. I had him send me one to take a look at. I recall at the time that it was unique in its ability to transform from a clamp to a vise with the addition of a couple of brackets you can mount to your bench.Â
Since that time, Tony has licensed the VersaClamp to PennTek Tools for manufacturing. (I wrote about PennTek Tools in this post.)Â
Here are some of the key features of the VersaClamp:
- Cam Locking Feature is easily activated with the Easy-Grip Handle and locks the work piece in place with up to 400 pounds of force
- Power of the clamp is not limited by the hand strength of the user
- Handle has multiple positions and pivots out of the way as needed
- When mounted as a vise, jaws turn to work at any angleÂ
- Soft, non-marring jaws firmly hold the work piece
- Available in 12”, 20”, 36 and 48” openings – comes with mounting brackets and hardware
- Patented Cam Locking System
- Made in the USA
- Limited Lifetime Warranty
You can order the VersaClamp from Garrett Wade, Woodcraft, or directly from the VersaClamp web site.
Makita’s New Professional Jig Saw
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comI’ve always been impressed with Makita tools. My dad has always been a fan of their tools and I sort of grew up with them. He’s got an early model benchtop planer he’s had for over 15 years that’s still running strong. The quality of Makita’s tools is hard to beat.
Makita has recently announced some new tools, and you’ll be reading more about them here. The first one on the list is their new variable speed, orbital jig saw. 
The 4329K jig saw features a compact design, three orbital settings plus straight cutting, with a powerful 3.9 AMP motor for use in a variety of materials. The new jig saw features an ergonomically designed rubberized grip to provide more comfort and control, while the variable speed dial control (500 – 3,100 SPM) delivers optimal cutting performance in a variety of materials. The die-cast aluminum base bevel cuts 45 degrees right or left with a positive stop at 90 degrees for solid cutting performance. A through-the-body dust port provides optimal dust management with use of clear dust cover and vacuum.
The saw is ideal for professional woodworkers, cabinetry makers, and specialized residential construction workers who require a best-in-class engineered jig saw in a compact size. The saw uses Tang shank blades only, plus has an on-board hex wrench for easy blade changes. The saw includes a blade and tool case.
New Plunge Base for Porter-Cable 890 Router
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comÂ
The flood is starting already. In addition to launching a new web site (www.deltaportercable.com), Porter-Cable today announced the availability of a new plunge base for their 890-series routers. From their press release: Â
The plunge base is offered as part of multi-base kits, models 893PK, 894PK and 895PK, as well as an accessory, model 8931. With machined brass brushings and steel guide rods, the upgraded base offers an extremely smooth and durable plunge stroke for greater user control and accuracy. In addition, a through-the-column dust collection system supports efficient dust removal, and yields improved bit and cut-line visibility when used with a durable, clear Lexan® sub-base and dust shroud, which come as standard.
To further enhance precision and ease of operation, the base features a six-position adjustable turret stop for stepped plunge cuts; a single, flat side on the base that allows routing to be done in tighter spaces while also providing a straight reference point; a lever release for quick motor transitions between bases; and rubber overmolded handles for a comfortable grip.
The versatile plunge base, which accommodates the existing 890 series motor, is ideal for a variety of woodworking applications, including general purpose cutting, dado stops, fluting, rabbetting stops, and hinge cutting. The plunge base, model 8931, and multi-base kits, models 893PK, 894PK and 895PK, will be available for purchase in July 2007 for $115, $269, $289 and $289, respectively.
Delta/Porter-Cable Announces New Product Lines
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comChanges are a comin’. Delta/Porter-Cable announced at a gathering at AWFS last night a major revamping of their product line. Lower-end products are going away. Newer products are on the horizon. The focus will be on quality with an emphasis on a new look and major efforts in industrial design of the products. One example cited was a new Unisaw with both wheel cranks on the front of the saw. It’s a unique concept that should have been done years ago. The new Unisaw will also have upgraded guards and all upgraded internal components. (It was interesting to note that the guard on the prototpye looked suspiciously like the guard on Bosch’s new benchtop saw.)
They announced a “re-branding” of sorts where you will see the Delta/Porter-Cable names together more and more as time goes on. Their design center will remain in Tennessee and they are sourcing major components from U.S. suppliers and not necessarily from Asian suppliers.
Company executives admitted that there have been some bumpy roads for the two brands since their purchase by Black and Decker three years ago. They expect that the dollars and man-hours that have gone into re-engineering their product lines will have benefits for the woodworker and their bottom line with improved sales. They may be facing an uphill battle, but hopefully we’ll see some new, quality innovation in tools. Both brands have a century of reputation in quality and hopefully, they’ll be able to regain that respect.
P.S. — I would have posted photos of some of the tools, but company execs prohibited cameras. Some of the products shown are prototypes and all features shown may not necessarily make it into production models. I can understand and respect that. So stay tuned. As we hear more, we’ll post it here.
UPDATE: See the Press Release from Delta/Porter-Cable here: REVOLUTION Press Release
Highlights from AWFS, Part 1
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comWhen they say it’s hot in Vegas, they aren’t kidding. And even though the show floor is air-conditioned, there are some hot new products heating up the arena.
Porter-Cable is set to announce a whole lineup of new tools tomorrow night at a press briefing. I’m going to see if I can sneak in the back door and let you know what I find out.
I got to spend some time at the Rikon Power Tools booth. I met and spoke for a few moments with Erin Riley, president. She said that the company is relatively new (around seven years old) and that Rikon tools have only been around for a little over four years. Steve Mangano, vice president, took some time to show me some of their products. They’ve got some innovative features on their band saws, and I was impressed with their table saw with sliding table. At just under $2,000, I think it’s a bargain with all the features and capabilities. They even have in their product line a couple of radial drill presses. I have an old Rockwell radial drill press that my dad gave me. I think every woodworker should own one. You can read all about their products on the Rikon Power Tools web site.
And Bessey Tools has got a new clamp that’s got my attention. It was originally introduced a few years ago but went away for a redesign and was re-introduced a few months ago. Look for the new DuoKlamp at your Bessey retailer. The product is so new, I couldn’t find it on their web site, but be on the lookout for it.
A chat with John McInerney, VP Sales/Marketing at Amana Tool was worth the time. He say’s they’re redirecting some of their sales efforts to broaden the product line for the home woodworker. Some products that are more used in a production shop have just as much appeal to a hobbyist woodworker. For example, a number of their router bits will be available with replaceable carbide inserts. This has a lot of advantages, according to John. For one, they can use a harder, finer grade of carbide since it wouldn’t be subjected to the heat of brazing it to a steel body. That means a sharper, longer-lasting edge — two other advantages for woodworkers. The initial investment might be a little more, but the costs of replacing the inserts will be considerably less than the cost of a new, traditional-style bit.
Well, I’m off now to see what’s up with the Kreg Tool Company.
Stay tuned for further developments.
Happy Birthday, Leonard Bailey!
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comThis is just a quick post in honor of one of the more prolific inventors in the tool world. The life of Leonard Bailey is a storied one, but one full of innovation and contribution to the woodworking world. To get a real understanding of Leonard Bailey, you really need to study the history of the Stanley Toolworks company. Most of Mr. Bailey’s patents were eventually bought out by Stanley. Most of his patents were for features found on hand planes. Many of these features are still found on modern hand planes.
Happy Birthday, Leonard. Here’s one woodworker that’s grateful for your contributions to the world.
Podcast #20: Machine-Cut Dovetails
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comDuring this week’s Woodsmith Woodworking Seminar podcast, you’ll get to see a great new fixture that’s featured in ShopNotes Issue No. 93. Bryan Nelson (who is managing editor of ShopNotes magazine) will be routing machine-cut dovetails using the Porter-Cable 4212 dovetail jig.
And to make it even more interesting, he uses the new Dovetail Jig Workcenter. The workcenter is loaded with features that provide storage for the jig and all its accessories, imporved accuracy, and added comfort as you work. Once again, the jig is featured in the lastest issue of ShopNotes (on newsstands now).
After the podcast is finished, stop by the Woodsmith Podcast Store. You’ll find links to project plans, the seminar guide, and a few of the tools and accessories that Bryan used during the seminar.
Another (fun) deviation
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner
I was in Toronto on Tuesday - visiting with some good friends - Anson and Joanne. I was also delivering this little Blackwood infilled XSNo.4. This plane has a few unique features worth noting.
The sole of this plane may look pretty typical - but the material is quite unique - it is pure iron. There is a very skilled blacksmith in town here - and during one of my visits, I asked him if there was a material that would be “rust proof”. He said he had some pure iron from France that might be suitable. So he gave me a piece to try.
This plane is going to spend a good part of its life restoring a boat on the east coast - so rust was a primary concern. I used brass pins to hold the infill in - to eliminate another potential rust area. I used a steel pin to hold the lever cap - I was concerned that a 3/16"D brass pin would not hold up over time.
The pure iron sole was a real treat to work with - much softer than the 01 I usually use. It felt more like bronze than steel. It piened beautifully! I suspect this won’t be the last pure iron sole I use.