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Interview with Tim McCready
09/10/2008, 02:57 | A Woodworking OdysseyTim McCready?long-time cabinet maker, author of The Wood Mechanic blog, and president of Bankston & Bailey LLC, a fine woodworking shop in Virginia?commented on one of my entries, and during the resulting off-blog conversation I mentioned wanting to start a series of interviews and shop tours with dedicated woodworkers. Tim agreed to be the first interview. I think when you read the interview you'll be happy he did.
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How did you start woodworking?
I started woodworking completely by chance. Through a mutual friend, I came to Harrison (Higgins)'s attention right when his shop needed an extra pair of hands. For the first several months I didn't do much but catch boards coming out of machines. He had a contract job making furniture for one of the hotels at Colonial Williamsburg, and he needed one more grunt laborer.What is the first project you completed that inspired pride?
One aspect of the job was a production run of roughly 100 maple pencil post beds. Rough 8/4 lumber would be sawn and dressed into 8-foot blanks 1 ¾? square in cross section. The blanks would be marked then mortised for headboards and rails as required. The tapers were cut on the bandsaw, and holes were bored for bed bolts.
Once all of this relatively interesting work was done, and a giant pile of pencil posts had materialized on a pair of saw horses in the middle of the shop floor, an apprentice had to remove the machine marks with a hand plane and sand each facet of the post for an eternity.
Guess who got that job! It was extreme drudgery, but I did learn how to use a plane effectively. Eventually I also learned how to carve the lamb's tongue that marked the transition from the tapers to the lower, flat section of the posts.
The first piece I can remember feeling proud of was a desk I made for myself after hours at Harrison's shop. It's still my main desk, but now all I see are its flaws and its telltale signs of having been made by a not-yet-very-skilled amateur. Luckily, though, I feel a certain sense of satisfaction?if not pride?whenever I make something well.
I know I've made something well when there's a seamlessness that proceeds from the initial daydreaming through the design and fabrication and finally the finish. It's a good feeling. I wish I could say I felt it with every project, but I don't. My mood and mindset seem to have at least as much to do with my work's quality as any objective skill level I may possess.

You mention working with Harrison Higgins, a talented furniture maker who specializes in reproduction work. Can you tell us more about how you came to work for him, and what you remember most about your time in his shop?
A guy named Lewis who worked at Harrison's shop in the early 90's had seen my band play, and he and I had several mutual friends in the Richmond music scene. I ran into him outside the shop once on my way to the post office, and he invited me in to see the place.When you worked with Harrison, it sounds like you learned a ton. What was it like working with him?
Harrison and his partner Alan (the finisher) didn't want anything to do with me. They saw a skinny shaven-headed punk kid, and they didn't figure I'd be a very reliable worker if I was going to be out at all hours doing the band thing. They only hired me because they just really needed that extra pair of hands.
In retrospect I see all of this as having been one of the most fortuitous events of my life. Alan and Harrison are still two of my best friends and have been like additional fathers to me--although maybe big brothers would be more like it.
What I remember most about my time at Harrison's shop is the relationships with the other people. There were between 6 and 9 of us while I worked there ('92-'98), and while not all of the personalities meshed, we did manage to get along reasonably well and to produce some of the finest woodworking I've seen.
Sometimes there was a quasi-monastic aspect to the place, when everyone was at his bench doing handwork and there was no music or machine work. On the other hand, we could act like a bunch of total nitwits at times as well, and I have a slew of funny and extremely fond memories of my time there.
Harrison moved his shop a couple of years ago, and I started mine right around the corner. So I still see everyone there a few times a week. I wish everyone could have some kind of work experience like that, where they're making something tangible with trustworthy, kind people.
It was a big mix of things. He remains one of my very closest friends, and as my shop is just a few blocks from his, I see him often. As much as anything, he was a kind of second father/big brother to me. Most of what I gained in my time with him was personal, although I don?t mean to down-play the importance of learning my trade.In one of your blog posts you mentioned having a Festool TS 75. Do you find it was worth the price? What can you tell those of us that cringe at the price of Festool products, but wonder if they might just be worth it?
He?s a weird teacher. He is so much more visual than verbal, so for example, when asked how he carves ball-and-claw feet, he once answered, ?Well, I just take away everything that doesn?t look like a ball or a claw.? All of us who know him well enjoy razzing him about this tendency of his.
The Festool TS 75 would be worth twice its price for what I do. I use it constantly for rough sizing sheet goods before I cut them to their final size on the tablesaw. It's so much easier and safer that way. If I didn't work alone, I'm not sure I'd need it since there would be someone around to help me move full sheets around. As it is, it's an incredibly useful tool. I've used it to crosscut 12/4 maple (in two cuts), to crosscut table leaves, and all sorts of other things.You bought an amazing 72" straight edge at an auction, and I know you have an old 12" jointer. What other old "treasures" do you have? Are there any that you can't live without?
One of the things I find amazing about the TS 75 is that it cuts bevels so accurately. Somehow they engineered it so that when it tilts over, it still cuts exactly along the guide rail's line. Because of that it can be used to cut long mitered parts quite accurately.
I also have the Festool Domino which I find indispensable in my case work. Once I've bored the holes for the domino I find that my cases go together pretty much like legos. The Domino, however, isn't as precisely engineered as it could be. There's something slightly wonky about guidelines indicating center on the cutter; I haven't quite put my finger on it yet. In any event, I use it all the time and it's a big time saver. I had hoped that it would eliminate the need for a mortiser, and so far it has. I think, though, that it would be very hard to do the large mortises necessary for, say a bed without a mortiser.
In general, my philosophy is "Cry once when you buy a tool instead of crying the thousands of times you actually have to use it." This is not an original idea of mine--I read something similar in an online forum somewhere, and I found that it rang true.
There's really only one other treasure, a pattern maker's combination square. We used to consider it the square of reference at Harrison's shop, and for a long time while I was doing work besides cabinetmaking, my friend Reid was in possession of it. He was displeased when I reclaimed it. I suppose it's comparable to a new, top-of-the-line Starrett.You have worked in a professional woodshop, and in your own "shop" at home. At one time, the home shop was just your back porch with a handful of portable tools. What techniques, if any, carried over from the professional shop to the back porch? And what would you say are the ESSENTIAL tools for the back porch craftsman?
I use my Lie-Nielsen low-angle block plane a lot. It's the only very nice plane I have, and it was well worth the initial investment. I'm considering buying their #4 to replace the #4 Record I've always been lukewarm about.
I wish I had more nice stuff, but that's always a work in progress.
Only the basic ways of thinking about case building transferred to that piece I built on the deck, specifically the marking system I use to keep parts straight. Everything else was improvised. Honestly, that wasn't very enjoyable, and I wasn't very pleased with the results. Plus it was really cold!Did you ever build the incredible gazebo you mocked up, with the fir mantle and built in fireplace? I want one ;)
If one had no choice but to have a knockdown shop in the back yard, my best advice would be to build a flat reference surface. A solid torsion box does the trick. Fine Woodworking online has articles about how to do it. Without a flat surface, building square cases is nearly impossible.
Heck no!!! Sometimes my wife and I dream big...what can I say? I do want to mock that up in SketchUp now that I'm proficient. We were thinking that if we ever built that it would become our main living room. The best part would be that the cats wouldn't be invited!
I once made a blanket chest for my niece, which has a hidden compartment that houses a key. I kept the lock. I always thought it would be fun to send her on a scavenger hunt later in her life where she?d have to decipher clues. The key?s location would be one of the final clues, and the lock would secure some kind of treasure. Anyhow, that was my intention when I made the chest.I loved the parquetry you did (or was it inlay?) on the toy chest: you know, the one with the faux finish that looked like jade. I guess that's not a question, but there you have it.
A good friend of mine has a beautiful William and Mary highboy with a hidden map drawer. The crown molding along the front of the piece is actually the drawer face. I love that!
That?s actually a faux finish simulating malachite. A good friend of mine is an expert faux finisher and gilder, and she walked me through that process. It was not difficult although it was fairly involved. One drags a piece of leather through the dark paint to create those swirls. People either love or hate that chest. I admit that it is a bit much.
What is your favorite of all the pieces you've built?That?d probably be the serpentine top Federal Pembroke table.



In 2006 you built 6 cupolas and said "framing the first cupola base took four hours. The subsequent five only took an hour and a half apiece." Is this typical?
I think that the time savings after the first instance of any multiple is just what comes naturally. Making the first element involves a lot of thinking, checking, double-checking, and correcting. Usually the subsequent parts become second nature to crank out. The cupolas were an extreme example. I?d never made anything like those before, so the first one took a lot longer while I figured out what in the heck I was doing.You finally opened your own shop last year and stopped working for someone else. Can you tell us a bit about what led you to that decision, and how did you get the courage to finally do it?
I had become very bored at the large architectural millwork shop at which I was working in ?06 and ?07. That business was closely tied to the mortgage market, and the big developers who ordered custom goods from the shop were some of the first to take the sub-prime nosedive.After a year in business for yourself, what can you tell us about owning your own shop? What surprised you most about being the proprietor?
A lot of those big developers work on very flimsy financing, as it turns out. The net effect for me at that shop was that there was literally no work to do. For a variety of reasons too boring to detail here, the company not only remained in business, but it also didn?t lay anyone off or even reduce hours. Many people I worked with considered it a great arrangement, but I can?t imagine anything worse than clocking in at 7:30, standing around all day, then clocking out at 5:00.
At first I started taking work on the side, and when that went well, I finally jumped ship. I suppose?per your question?that a certain amount of courage was involved, but mostly I am motivated by the avoidance of boredom.
The biggest surprise of owning my own business is the intensity of the psychology of pricing. I?ve been surprised when very wealthy clients have balked at what I consider very fair prices. I?ve bitten my nails thinking I?d bid too high on something, not heard from the client for a month, and then gotten the work after all. It drives me crazy, and I think it probably drives my wife crazy hearing about it all the time. I?ve gotten jobs and later learned that my bid was twice that of the next guy, and I?ve lost bids to lower bidders. It doesn?t seem to make any sense.Were there things you should have thought about and didn't?
Hands down, the hardest part of this is the worry over whether or not new work will be coming along.
There have been many other lessons along the way, most of which boil down to the importance of sitting down and rationally considering problems before taking action. Doing so has been especially helpful in deciding which equipment purchases to make. I?d love to call Lee Valley and tell them to send me one of everything, but obviously if I did that the only business I?d be able to operate is a giant yard sale!
Not really. But only because I?ve been thinking about doing this for so long! It?s not that there haven?t been challenges, it?s just that I had already had the opportunity to think through the big issues.You're building your dream shop (I think). What have you done right? What have you done (if anything) that you would have avoided?
I rent a 1,200 sq. ft. space which is about right for a one-man shop, so that was a good decision. I shopped around until I found a good combination of low rent and good location. I only buy tools and machines as I need them for projects, and I do my best to build equipment costs into bids. I have bought a mix of top-of-the-line new equipment (Laguna, Festool) and solid old equipment (a jointer from 1910, a late 80?s Delta table saw). I haven?t sprung for central dust collection yet which has its upside (saved money) and downside (lots of dust)!You just landed a contract for the Virginia state capitol. Can you tell us about what you're doing for them, and how you plan to approach it?
So far, so good. There?s nothing I?ve done that feels like a big mistake just yet. Give me some time, and we?ll see what I can goof up!
Over the past five years or so, our state capitol has undergone an amazing renovation and expansion. In the new area, which is underground, there are two gallery spaces, each roughly 1,600 square feet. There was a bit of a rush to finish the construction for the big Jamestown 400 year celebration and the visit of Queen Elizabeth.In one blog post, you suggested that degree programs for furniture making are impractical at best, and possibly damaging to the graduates (I'm reading a lot into your comment, I know). Assuming I read your meaning correctly, what would you say to graduates of these programs that might help them once they get into the working world?
During that rush, there was little time for curatorial decision making in the gallery spaces. Basically, the decision makers in charge are getting to that now, and I?ve designed?and will soon start fabricating?the museum case pieces which will begin to unify the aesthetic of the galleries. They?re simple, veneered cases with acrylic vitrines and will house art objects and architectural models. There is also one massive piece (roughly 8? wide and 12? tall) that will display four flags on flagpoles.
Once I?ve made final drawings in SketchUp, I?ll cut pieces to rough size, edgeband the top edges, veneer the backs with poplar, veneer the fronts with anigre, miter the outside edges, and assemble the cases with band clamps and glue.
Truncated pyramids will sit inside the cases, and vitrines will fit precisely between the inside case edges and the outside edges of the pyramids. Some cases (like the one displaying a large marble bust) will require additional structure inside to accommodate the objects. That?s the basic idea.
I'm not sure I've been completely fair about this, but here is the fundamental problem I?ve noticed: Many of these programs teach people how to do top-notch work, but at a snail?s pace. I remember a job applicant who had just finished at North Bennett coming to Harrison?s shop. He showed us a photograph of a gorgeous Federal demilune table with all manner of amazing veneers and stringing. So far, so good. But when Harrison asked him how long it took him to make it, he replied, ?Six months.? At $50/hour, six months of shop time is in the $50,000 range, which nobody gets for an occasional table.
In my view, places like North Bennett would be optimal for independently wealthy people or retirees who want to become highly-skilled amateur woodworkers. I?m not sure it?s the place to go if the goal is starting one?s own woodworking business. Once again, I?m not sure this is entirely fair, and I would hope that the people at North Bennett would be prepared to answer this line of questioning candidly.
Sometimes people who go through fine woodworking programs wind up with a smug attitude about the superiority of their craftsmanship. I?ve seen this several times. Here in Richmond we have a highly ranked art school at VCU. I took a woodworking class in the Crafts Department, and the TAs there were just insufferable! I quickly found that I knew more about actually making furniture after my few months working for Harrison than they seemed to have accumulated up to that point in their lives. I sincerely doubt that any of those guys have successfully run their own shops. Successfully running a shop involves much more than meticulous craftsmanship.
I did work with two graduates of a highly regarded woodworking program at Rockingham Community College in North Carolina. Those guys came out of that program knowing how to work in real-world situations, and their level of craftsmanship was very high.
All of that having been said, if I had to advise graduates of woodworking programs as to how to proceed, I?d say "find a successful high-end furniture maker wherever you live or want to live, and if you have a halfway decent feeling about him or her personally, beg for an apprenticeship." If the answer is ?no?, offer to work for minimum wage. If the answer is still ?no?, offer to cover the workmen?s comp costs he encounters upon hiring you.
Here?s the thing, though: This is what I would advise someone to do BEFORE going to a fancy and expensive woodworking program!
_____________________________________________________________I hope this will be the first in a long series of interviews and shop tours. If you, or someone you know, would be willing to grant an interview or photographic shop tour, please let me know through the comments feature of this entry.
All photographs in this interview copyright and courtesy of Tim McCready and Bankston & Bailey LLC.
Antique Traditional Kudus House
09/09/2008, 06:06 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House The architect mostly achieves the ideal process of culture combination and success to represent a unique colour of
The roof construction of traditional house of Kudus shows the level of wealthy of the owner since cost to make the roof is the highest cost compare with any other parts of the house. The expensive cost was because of the motifs perfection and the carved style also the difficulty on the process to construct it.
The Pencu style roof (the towering roof) used to be made of Rumbia (a particular kind of palm leaves), but now more likely to be made of tiles. Kudus tiles often have special plant motifs, and there are the so-called genteng gajah (with elephant ornamentation) on the wuwungan (the topmost row of tiles), and the genteng raja (king tiles) which are beautifully decorated.
The design interior of the traditional house of Kudus looks simple and divided into Jogo Satru room as a guess room, which in the standard traditional house of Kudus the cover area is around 3 x 10 msq. In this room, the floor is lower around 1 m from the main room (inside room) and is a part of the fourth step or floor.
Then, inside room (jogan lebet) is a fifth step with area around 7 x 10 msq. A chair uses as the connection between the two rooms because of its level differences.and as partition between the two rooms used Gebyok.
Inside the inside room (jogan lebet), there are several rooms such as living room located below the joglo, then bedrooms and gedongan as the place to keep the heilroom and wealthy. Gedongan placed between inside room and pawon (kitchen) that located in the left or right of the house.
This pawon except use for cooking and dinner room, also use for the family activity, such as made of convection products and other home industries. In front of the pawon, precisely in the edge part of the yard placed well complete with the bathroom.
There are several types of doors in the traditional house of Kudus, there is one door, two door and sliding door. One door is usually for the kitchen, two doors in gebyok and the sliding door is in the front.
One thing that necessary to be noted is that traditional house of Kudus always build face to the south that full with the philosophy meaning and based on the natural rule of rational calculation.
????/ box making
09/09/2008, 02:55 | Masashi's woodworking diary
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The next project after the picture frame is a box making.
There are two purposes for this project.
Mitre joint; to cut the boards at 45 degree to assemble.
To predict how the material moves and to know how to minimize the trouble caused by the movement.
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So I brought lots of boxes from home.
Some tiered lunch boxes are badly warped.
It is more difficult than you expect to make a box from wood.


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Everyone started making after the lecture. It took two weeks for them to finish.
The most difficult part was to fit the lid perfectly to the body, but they did well.
After five months of practise at the college you can make a box.
It is quite a progress.


Replacing a Rotting Stair Riser
09/06/2008, 03:59 | A Woodworking OdysseySupplies needed:
6' length of 2x8 PineI discovered the hard way that even though Home Depot and Lowe's carry risers that are 48" long, your riser might require something longer. So, after two trips for lumber I was ready to start fitting using the 6-foot length of 2x6 pine I'd procured. I suspect that someday I will wish I had purchased poplar, but pine it will be.
Shims
Drafting compass
Saber Saw or Coping Saw
Pencil
The riser height was not exactly equal to the space (room for movement), so I had to shim it up into place to get a marking. Veritas has a fancy gadget, called a transfer scribe, for marking odd shaped ends, but I just used my standard compass. I set the compass to a width greater than the deepest section of the step against the house and simply dragged the tightener against the house while the pencil scribed the board.
After tonight's work, the riser is ready to prime for painting, which I can do in the basement this weekend (even if it does rain outside, with the arrival of Tropical Storm Hannah). If all goes well I will be as happy with the fit of the new riser as I was with the old one (installed by a professional carpenter). So far, so good. Here's the before and after shots:

Bench Finishing
08/27/2008, 18:36 | A Woodworking OdysseySean, on the other hand, is a powerhouse for bulk woodworking. You may remember the post I made about his 20 box run. At the time he completed the boxes, these benches were a pile of rough cut lumber in Sean's barn. In less than two months he converted that pile to what we thought was 30 collapsible benches (it turned out to be 29 bench tops and 28 complete benches).
The bulk of the bench parts were sent down to Pennsylvania with Jay on Wednesday, but Sean stopped by our house to deliver most of the bench sides at 11 p.m. Friday, the last possible moment we could have taken them with us. These benches would be outside for the next two weeks, and needed to be finished before being put to use. I promised Sean two things before I left: first, that I would take pictures of the benches after they were finished and assembled; second, that they would be properly stickered for storage during the following year. Implicit in those promises was a third: that the benches would be stained, sealed, and assembled.
So the first week of my vacation, I took a trip to Home Depot looking for staining and sealing supplies. Jay wanted to stain the benches green, so they would be identifiably ours, and after long deliberation, I chose Minwax water-based stain in an Olive tint rather than Hunter Green. Minwax Helmsman spar varnish would be the sealant. This started a two-and-a-half day marathon of staining, sealing, and convincing people to help complete the project.
With 28 total benches being finished for assembly, we recruited everyone willing to wield a brush. We went through a lot of protective gloves during this: probably 15 different people helped out with this project, the most important being Anne, who started staining and coordinating volunteers while I was still finishing the sand table. At one point the gloves we had made us feel like villains in Firefly. "Two-by-two, hands of blue".
The benches were completed by Wednesday. Nicodemus assembled the benches once they were dry and we enjoyed using them for the rest of the two weeks.
Washing Machine
08/22/2008, 13:50 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House"Wize? will give you some reviews for a different washing machines and give you details according to released date, washer type, load type, control features, and pros. There are also will give a distinct image of the washing machine and its price ranges. It shows a survey result which will give you an idea if that washing machine is the best for your own personal usage.
Visit ?Wize? now for detail info!
Tool Shopping
08/21/2008, 04:09 | A Woodworking Odyssey
Today I went on a bit of a tool shopping spree at Lee Valley and Rockler. The initial motivation was to replace a pair of Crash Scissors I misplaced at Pennsic.Of course a trip to the tool shop is never safe, even if just on the computer. I ended up finding a list of clamps I had jotted down a few months ago after I read Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings, so I got those and (oh yes) some hones I've been intending to get since Beauty is using dull knives in the kitchen and I'm carrying a dull knife in my pocket. For good measure I got a dust hood to install on the Radial Arm Saw. So here's the complete list.
From Rockler:
- Tabletop Dust Fitting
- 2 10" Rockler Brand Wooden Hand Screws (at $4.99 each!)
- Sportsman's Hone
- Lee Valley Ceramic Honing Kit
- 2 8" Jorgensen Hand Screws
- 2 12" Jorgensen Hand Screws
- 2 3" C-clamps
- 2 4" C-clamps
- 3 Pairs of Crash Scissors
Photo courtesy of Lee Valley.
Shop Wiki
08/15/2008, 12:59 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood HouseAs a home furnishings and decor buying guide, at ?ShopWiki? you can find something fancy or something functional such as: furniture, beds, mattresses, home accessories, home decorating style, lamps, desk lamps, light fixtures, oriental rugs, etc. All the goods on all budgets, in all styles and for every nook and cranny in your home.
Please visit ?ShopWiki? site now for your first order!
Finally - The Philly Shave
07/21/2008, 21:27 | Philsville
Hi Folks
At last I can reveal the final version of my recent spoke shave journey. The obviously named, "Philly Shave".
This one is winging its way to the first customer and is made from some lovely Indonesian Rosewood. Complete with brass wear strip and locking knobs it looks quite special. The cutter can be adjusted from the top to set the depth of cut and then locked off with the brass knobs - a good system. Finish is a coat of boiled linseed oil followed by many coats of shellac - a finish which really shows off the Rosewood to its best.
There are more details on my website, here.
Cupcake the Kitten is settling in nicely at home. She's not old enough to go outside yet but is making herself quite comfortable around the house. A favourite trick is jumping on the keyboard whilst you are typing (so apologies if the spellllllingggggg iiiiis baaadd) but it's good to see how naturally she has fitted into life here. Our last cat lasted was well into her twenties - you forget just how much energy kittens have!
Anyway - have to go. Someone wants to play with her favourite mouse........ ;)
Philly

Bedroom Window Treatments
04/28/2008, 04:44 | Wood ShuttersHow do you know which window treatment is right in your bedroom?
There are 3 basic types of window treatments that can be used alone or in combinations. Here?s some tips on these basic types and what style of room you might choose them for.
Curtains and Drapes
Curtains and drapes are a style of window treatment that most of us can recognize but there?s many variations on this old standby. If your bedroom design is simple, you might choose just plain sheers as these will go well with many themes including a romantic theme, a modern theme and anything in between.
Valances can be used to soften the top of the window. They are great if you don?t want to cover up a great view but also don?t want the window to look too bare. Typically valances are made from fabric but you can build them form wood and decorate them with an aged or stencilled paint to go with your Tuscan or French country design. Fabric valances can go with almost any bedroom decorating theme depending on the fabric you choose and can be used in conjunction with sheers to give you a bit of privacy.
Drapes are an elegant bedroom window treatment. If you have a romantic, French or Victorian theme some heavy drapes in rich fabrics can transform your bedroom into one fit for a queen. Heavy drapes look best on tall windows, but if you short squatty windows like most homes built in the 60's - 80's don?t let that deter you from using great drapes. You can always just keep them closed to hide the window behind and no one will ever know the difference!
Wooden Shutters and Blinds
Indoor wooden window blinds are a great way to add privacy to your bedroom and can be used alone or with curtains, drapes or valances.
There are 2 styles of shutters - plantation shutters and café shutters.
Plantation shutters cover the whole window and have louvers which can be opened and closed to let light in or provide privacy. These shutters go great with a plantation style look, a country look or a coastal cottage look.
The café shutters are the kind that cover only the bottom half of the window and swing open to let light in. These also look nice in a country or beach style bedroom and are perfect for a Paris apartment style as well.
Fabric Blinds
Fabric blinds add a nice touch to any bedroom and can be decorated and embellished with whatever you want. Fringe, pom-poms and ribbon are just a few of the great ways to make these bedroom window treatments stand out.
Roman blinds work well for childrens rooms and informal styles such as cottage or beach style decor. These shades fold up to expose the window during the day and roll down at night.
Festoon blinds are puffy with lots of fabric. They are quite ornate and work best in a romantic style bedroom such as a Victorian, French or Italian motif. Festoon blinds look best on wide windows and might not be good for small rooms as they can tend to be a bit overwhelming.
Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.bedroom-designs-and-decorations.com where you can learn more about popular bedroom decorating styles.
Interior Design, an Ethnic Approach
04/28/2008, 04:41 | Wood ShuttersSo what do we mean by ethnic?
Ethnic basically means native or indigenous people from a particular area so in relation to Interior Design it means to bring the natural elements that are representative of whatever culture, land or peoples you choose to portray into your own home to define your space.
Naturally the world is your oyster as they say so there are countless cultures to choose from, all you have to do is bring a particular ensemble of colours, patterns, materials and artifacts together to create a "look" that is recognisable and distinctive. What about a Mediterranean flavour, Native American Indian symbolism, or perhaps Tibetan Buddhism? Popular themes include African, Mexican, and Asian but you can go with whatever inspires or appeals to you. Here are a few ideas to get you started.
African Theme
Think of Africa and all that it conjures up in your mind, the landscape, the sounds, the smells, the colours, the mood, and then if you try to pick out the key points, what would they be? Colour schemes might include earthy colours like green, beige, browns and tans, set off with orange and splashes of red. Think about floor and wall coverings, natural substances would probably work best. Finishing touches can include wall hangings, African artifacts, drums, rugs, African fabrics and prints, animals made of stone, clay or wood, ceremonial masks hung on the wall, brightly coloured African bowls and pots, and so on.
Mexican Theme
What does Mexico mean to you? Perhaps desert colours with sandy tones, beige and khaki, along with reddish, rustic colours and hues. Blankets and woven fabrics in bright colours, perhaps terra cotta pots and bowls, pine wood is popular for furniture. Artifacts can include symbols of the South West or from the Spanish influence, or from the Aztecs, Mayans and other ancient civilisations, all of which can add an interesting and authentic Mexican look and feel.
Asian Theme
There are many variations within an Asian theme but two quite popular ones are Japanese and Chinese. Japanese themes tend to lean towards a more minimalist look and have a tranquil and peaceful feel. Consider a futon and using screens to get that Japanese ambiance. Colours tend to be natural and objects from nature often feature as focal points, for example, smooth stones and pebbles, water fountains and bonsai trees. Chinese themes on the other hand might involve brighter and bolder colours, lanterns, dragons and other mythological creatures, artwork depicting the traditional people colours and landscapes and Chinese handwriting.
How to get started
Once you have established which particular ethnic culture appeals to you, browse through books and magazines and the Internet to get ideas that will spark off your own imaginative flair. Identify what elements go together to make up that particular look or feel that you want to create.
Consider the walls, ceilings and floors carefully as this will provide a base for you to work from and then you can add in the details to finish it off. For example, is the texture and appearance of the walls and ceilings rough or smooth? What floor covering is appropriate, should it be wood, stone, tiles or carpets? Will rugs and mats make a difference and if so what are they made of? Are the windows better suited to drapes, blinds or shutters? What style of furniture works? What about plants, motifs, pictures and wall hangings?
The theme you adopt and the way that you choose to portray specific elements of that theme is entirely up to you and your imagination, the end result will be your own unique interpretation of a culture or a place and you will have added a touch of the exotic to your home.
David McEvoy is an expert in interior design. If you are looking for a leather sofa to give the finishing touches to a newly decorated room then please come and visit our site http://www.leathersofa.uk.com/
Exterior Bamboo Blinds Helps Keep Out The Sun
04/28/2008, 04:39 | Wood ShuttersFor instance, in Asia, huts were made of bamboo and grass; even the window coverings were bamboo. The use of bamboo in Asia was to keep out inclement weather. So yes, our world has changed to where we find bamboo a signature of the tropical worlds such as Japan and Asia and we find we want to create that atmosphere in our backyard.
Exterior bamboo blinds are great for your backyard, not only because they offer you more shade on your porch and are the envy of friends for decorating your home in a new fashion, but because they hold up during any type of weather. The bamboo does need to be treated for weather resistance every year, and you will want to switch the side that is exposed to the sun every once in a while, but you will be protected.
You will be able to have those indoor barbeques on your porch during a rainstorm and be protected. The bamboo treatment allows for the reduction of mildew not only on the blinds, but also in the area you are protecting.
Not only can you switch, which side is exposed to the sun whenever you need to, but also the installation of these blinds is extremely easy. You do not have to hire a contractor to help you. The instructions are very easy to follow and you just need an electrical screwdriver.
There are two styles of exterior bamboo blinds, the venation and the roll up. The roll up bamboo blind is easier to deal with because you simply roll it up and secure it to the straps on the ceiling. The venation works off the rope system typical of most mini blinds so they tend to get tangled.
You can also find more info on Vinly Mini Blinds and Wooden Window Blinds. Windowblindsreview.com is a comprehensive resource to know about Windows Blinds.
Arch Window Shutters
04/28/2008, 04:38 | Wood ShuttersTraditional shutters, sometimes referred to as the colonial style, have a one-inch to one-fourth-inch wide movable louvers. These are normally used in colonial and traditional styles of American homes. You may want to order cafe shutters as coverage for the bottom part of the window to create that quaint, cottage-style mood.
On the other hand, plantation shutters have a three-inch wide movable louver and have a more modern design. They are versatile enough to be used in any window in almost all homes. They permit you to see more and allow for more closing of the panels most of the time. They can be made as café-type units or double-tier units.
You may also choose whether to paint or stain your window shutters. In general, paint colors include a variety of whites and other light colors. Stains can enhance wood grains by use of a number of tints and tones starting from a light natural tone to a tone close to black. Please note that synthetic and wood composite shutters should not be stained.
Remember that the quality of the finish is almost as important as the color. Window shutters that are finished with poor quality will easily deteriorate. A paint finish needs to be thorough, thick and smooth, and it should cover all surfaces. Stain finishes needs to have a sturdy protective coat finish.
Owing to various options in materials, window shutters come in a wide range of prices. A lot of suppliers calculate the price per square foot, a strategy that is not beneficial to consumers. Since sizes are normally rounded up, consumers end up paying more for what they actually got.
Estimating prices based on exact window size, the number of shutter panels, and the finish and style are better because the price will not shortchange the customers. You can also save some money by ordering the shutters directly and measuring and installing them yourself.
Keep these guidelines in mind to ensure that you will get the best bargain when looking for window shutters to install in your home.
Window Shutters provides detailed information on Arch Window Shutters, Custom Window Shutters, Exterior Window Shutters, Hurricane Window Shutters and more. Window Shutters is affiliated with Window Roller Shades.
How To Easily Install Interior Window Shutters Yourself
04/28/2008, 04:38 | Wood ShuttersThe first thing you need to do is measure the window opening where you want to install the shutters. Depending on whether you will mount them on the inside or the outside this is where you will need to measure.
If you are going to mount them on the window jamb on the inside of the window opening, which is the preferred method, you will need to know the width and height across the inside of the window framing. The reason this is the preferred method is because it makes for a cleaner installation and doesn't require additional hang strips or frame strips, you just have to be sure the window you are working with is square and has a solid window jamb to screw into.
Next you need to determine the depth of the window by measuring from the front plane of the window back to the nearest obstruction that will obstruct the louvers and keep them from rotating. If you prefer, the manufacturer you bought your shutters from can also tell you the window depth for the style you ordered. Sometimes the manufacturer may suggest an alternative installation method to use in case the window is out of square or if it has a drywall opening without a solid wood jamb using rear hanging strips concealed behind the shutter panels that will allow adjustment up, down, left, and right for easier alignment.
If you choose to mount outside of the frame you will attaching to the wall or existing trim just to the outside of the opening of the window. Usually the frame will surround the shutter panels on three or four sides, depending on whether or not a lower sill exists.
Hanging strips are used if you decide to install a cafe type shutter style, the hanging strips will be screwed directly to the wall or trim, and the hinge of the shutters attached to the frame or the hanging strips.
The old adage of measure twice cut once applies here too, also be sure to use a steel tape for the most accurate measurement possible.
Gregg Hall is an author living in Navarre Florida. Find more about this as well as Shutters Plus at http://www.shutters-plus.com.
Wood Shutters - Choosing Well to Weather Water, Wind and Warping
04/28/2008, 04:35 | Wood ShuttersExterior wood shutters are available in a number of basic designs. These range from the raised panel that is particularly popular in coastal areas, to the familiar fixed louver. Alternatively opt for "country style" board and batten, or an exotic, but practical bermuda wood shutter installation.
What should you take into consideration when deciding which wood shutter set to order?
To start with you will need to decide what look you are trying to achieve, and this will depend largely on the style of your home. Wood shutters can be designed to complement just about any residence, but cost will of course play a much bigger role in highly customized, and fully functional wooden shutters.
Before making this major home improvement decision, look at your general interior design, patio design, and patio furniture. Your window shutters should blend into, and enhance these aspects.
You will also want to ensure that the right wood is used for a durable, and warp-resisting wood shutter. Although many woods are used in the construction of wood shutters, the woods of choice are Western Red Cedar, or Mahogany. Vertical-grained wood is also more resistant to warping.
If wood-work isn't your cup of tea, take a carpenter-friend along to check the quality of construction, especially the joints. Mortise-and-tenon joints are much more durable than screwed, or butt-glued joints. While you're at it, also ensure that you get wood shutters with copper or aluminum capping for more protection from the elements.
Interior wood shutters can be considered part of the furniture, and if the right design is chosen, they contribute greatly to the atmosphere, elegance and warmth of a room.
Even though interior wood shutters are not directly exposed to the same range and intensity of the elements as exterior shutters, they will still need to properly deal with temperature changes and design stresses. To avoid warping and other alignment problems, wooden shutters constructed of 100% hardwood, such as American Yellow Poplar and Elm, are well suited to the role.
Of course, interior wood shutters are also more than mere decorations! They are excellent insulators to keep temperatures at a comfortable level.
Don't go for the first fit-all-sizes window shutters you come across. By doing some research, and getting lasting, stylish and functional wood shutters, you will greatly increase the value of your home!
Awnings-and-Blinds.com - Read the Plantation Shutter article at Awnings-and-Blinds.com - also by Rika Susan of Article-Alert.com.
Copyright 2006 Rika Susan. This article may be reprinted if the resource box and hyperlinks are left intact.
A Tale of Two Museums
04/20/2008, 15:18 | The Village Carpenter
We met some friends in Philadelphia yesterday to tour two museums: The Mütter Museum (museum of medical oddities, including body parts
encased in formaldehyde) and the Philadelphia Museum of Art (which is currently showcasing artwork by Frida Kahlo).
I would like to point out that The Mütter Museum was not my idea. I had vowed years ago that I would never tour the facility (I hate all
things gross), but when my partner and friends dangled the Frida Kahlo carrot in front of my nose, I caved.The Mütter Museum did not disappoint?I was queasy after the tour....just in time for lunch.
We had some time to kill before our appointment with the Kahlo exhibit, so we spent time exploring the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where as luck would have it, a fine collection of various types of sculpture, paintings, metalwork, ceramics, and FURNITURE (woohoo!) from 1680 to present is housed in the American Art section. Here are a few of my favorites:
- Wardrobe, 1779, walnut, yellow pine, oak, and sulfur inlay, and with
rattail hinges. - Side Chair, 1866, oak.
- Desk & Bookcase, 1827, mahogany, mahogany veneer, stained burl ash, white pine, yellow poplar, and stringing. The Franklin Institute's report on its 1827 exhibit in which this piece won an award stated that it was "the best piece of furniture" of its kind.
- Shaker Sewing Desk, Enfield New Hampshire community. Birdseye maple, cherr
y, walnut, and poplar. - Spectacle Case, 1800-1850, cherry, Shaker. Note the ridged side pulls.
- PA German Painted Cupboard.
- Shaker Worktable, 1800-1850, white pine and maple.
- Giant Plug, cherry, from the Pop Art collection.

The museum closed before we had time to tour the other collections, which include European Art, Asian Art, Modern/Contemporary Art, and Arms & Armor, making it well worth another trip to Philly.It was a fabulous Saturday?I've managed to erase the medical oddities from memory?and before we headed home, maybe because we were aglow from the spirit-li
fting exhibits, maybe because we're a benevolent bunch, we decided to help a sister out with a little tweezing.(click to enlarge photo)
Building the Woodshop: Part VIII - Roofing
03/18/2008, 05:00 | Norse Woodsmith
Ah, the hard work was done... Or was it? I got the roof framed, and it was time now to get it shingled. Before I get to that, the last little bit of framing needed to happen - the cupola. Here you can see the base I had constructed while framing up the roof:
You can also see the roofing materials nowhere near I wanted them to be - I wanted them on the roof, but there they are on the ground... Of course, they are the heavy ones - architectural layered shingles, which basically means each bundle weighs twice as much as a regular bundle... but I digress...
Here's a rear view of the building, showing the cupola framing and the rear overhang I neglected to include in the last installment of this unending adventure:
It was much easier to frame up the cupola on the ground, as there were several angled cuts to make and it's easier to make any adjustments where the saw is closer than a run down the ladder... besides, that 8/12 pitch is hard enough to stand on. That - and I wanted to make sure I got the weather vane installed properly. I purchased it from The Weathervane Factory located in Bar Harbor Maine. I had considered something more whimsical, but in the end I am happy with this purchase - it fits the finished design of the building quite well. Here is the framed cupola, complete with vane, on the floor of the shop:
And - of course - in it's final resting place on the top center of the shop:
The cupola is a functioning roof vent, along with gable vents at each end - there should be plenty of air traveling through the attic space with this setup. I used pre-made louvers just to save on time and keep them a bit more maintenance free... In retrospect, I think if I were to build it now, I would use a larger roof on it - something with a little Asian influence - but, I'm not going to tear the thing down for it!
Anyhow - I had the roof sheathed now, the cupola framed and in place, and all that was left was to heft all the shingles up onto the roof. By my calculations, it was going to take about 18-1/2 square or so, or 56 bundles. That's 56 trips up the ladder carrying some god-awful heavy material. Of course - it was mid August, the hottest part of the year... You can't shingle a roof unless it either the hottest or coldest part of the year, you know.
I have mentioned that one of the reasons I was able to build my own shop was because I had become my dad's caregiver after mom passed away. Dad had come to live with us right at New Year's, and did quite well at first. But it was about at this time that his condition (Alzheimer's) became quite severe. It made working on the shop during the day difficult at best... Dad had taken to wandering off on me, wouldn't come out to the shop to "help" me any longer, and I couldn't leave him by himself for more than about 10 to 15 minutes, even if he was sleeping. Usually I would have to wait for my wife to get home from her work to "take over" for me so I could work on the roofing in the evening. The nights were long, and the weather cooler in the evening, so it wasn't all bad, I guess...
We took him in to see a doctor and she suggested we contact Hospice of North Idaho - that they might be able to help us out. What a godsend those people were... They came out three times a week, giving dad care and me some time to run errands and get some work done. I cannot thank them enough for their exemplary service, they were truly wonderful.
As a result, I don't have any photos of progress on the roof so here it is magically complete, about a week after Labor Day:
It took me about a month to get it from the picture before to that one. First to go up was the class A chimney for the wood stove, the mast for the electrical service, then the fascia board followed by the shingle underlayment Here you can see the mast for the electrical service, and my temporary scaffolding re-erected after being torn down when the roof framing was completed:
It was no fun doing this side of the roof - an 8:12 pitch gets hard to stand on after a while, and I'm no fan of heights... It took all of my courage at some points. I did use roof jacks for this side, which made it easier.
It ended up taking about 19 squares of shingles to complete, I used the heaviest kind (of course!), an architectural "layered" shingle that has a 35 year warranty. What I really remember is how exhausted I was by this time... When I did work on the shop, it was at a frantic pace. The shingles were heavy, of course - and I can still feel the pain in my shoulder from lifting them into place. I had to wear tape over my fingertips, as rubbing the stone on the shingles had worn my fingernails down to where they were bloody. Worst of all was that Dad was a 24 hour a day job, as he had no sense of day or night anymore.
Dad was rapidly getting worse, and I stopped work on the shop to spend time with him. He passed away on the 21st of September.
The next month was spent bringing him back to his home to be buried next to mom, and to get together with family to decide what to do with their estate.
Getting back, it was well into October. Life was about to change for me - no longer tied to the house, I needed to get back out into the workforce. My focus now was on updating my resume and on storing what I had received as an inheritance from the estate. When I started the shop, we had no idea how long dad was going to be with us, and there was a finite amount of money to work with. We had it worked out where once the shop was complete, dad and I could start working out of it, making money out of it, hopefully enough to allow me to remain as his caregiver. It turned out that wasn't to be, the time with him was too short, and the shop was incomplete. I wasn't far enough along with it for it to work for its income, so it would have to take the back burner while I once again joined the 9 to 5'ers.
When everything was settled, I did spend some time on the shop buttoning it up for the coming winter. First was to put some siding on the cupola so the flashing would keep out the rains:
Next was to get the windows and doors installed so the building would be enclosed:
It was finally starting to look like a building! The overhead door is a 10' x 10' "residential" door from Overhead Door... I'm quite disappointed in it, it's not a very tough door and the panel with the windows is too high to look out of - the only other option would have been to have them be too low...
I also got the electrical panel hooked up so there was power, but that was about it for the winter. The next thing I knew, I was reporting daily to a new job and my time for working on the shop was drastically cut back to a few hours a week. With the cold weather and darkness of winter approaching, not much would happen until spring could shake off the icy grip of what seemed to be the longest, coldest winter... But there were a few things I could do...
Coming up next - knee braces and some other miscellaneous structural work, and hooking up the electrical...
The Spinning Wheel - De-Constructing an Original
02/22/2008, 04:10 | Norse WoodsmithWell, it seems my brother had been keeping great great granddad's old spinning wheel - I had forgotten the box that it was in when I left the homestead, and he had been storing it for me. After reading the last piece I did on spinning wheels, he must have read it and remembered he had it -and got it out in the mail to me - because it arrived a week or so afterwards:
It's missing some pieces, but there's a good majority of it still there. The legs and pedal are gone, and it's missing the two pieces that hold the bobbin/axle.
It's an interesting piece to me on several counts... First, it was made by great great grandad... Second, it's a study in wooden machinery - everything has a purpose and yet it's still elegantly constructed. Third, it's an example of true frontier craftsmanship. I'm not sure of the exact date, my best guess would have been somewhere near the 1870 to 1890 range, in the Dakotas. This would have been made with the most meager set of tools, and quite far out in the country... I think I remember reading the nearest flour mill at the time was a full day away.
Parts of a Spinning Wheel |
| To have a discussion about the construction of the old wheel above, it would probably help to review just what the parts are called... I got much of this information off of various web sites, including The Joy of Handspinning, which is a wonderful resource for the enthusiast - I'm more interested in the construction, but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know how the thing works!... I'm using dad's wheel, which is a replica of the old one I'm looking at:
|
| Tension Knob: A threaded knob, turned to raise or lower the bobbin and flyer assembly thusly reducing or increasing tension on the drive bands. Maidens: The upright posts that hold one end of the bobbin and flyer assembly Flyer Whorl: The pulley that drives the flyer - it has several different diameters so different speeds can be achieved Flyer: The U-shaped piece with hooks - the hooks are there just so the fiber can be spooled evenly onto the bobbin. This is what spins the fiber. Bobbin: A spool that collects the spun fiber Orifice: Where fiber is fed into the wheel as it is spun Drive Bands: Twine or string that drives the flyer whorl from the fly wheel Mother of All: The upright piece that holds up the tension knob, bobbin, and flyer Fly Wheel: The main drive wheel - the large wheel that is powered by the treadle Footman: Hard to see in the photo above, it's behind everything- it's the wooden piece that connects the treadle to the fly wheel Treadle: the foot pedal at the bottom |
It's made from at least three, but more likely four distinctively different woods, from what I can see - and I think you can tell somewhat in the top photo. I'm not positive of the exact species, but from my experience with wood and my knowledge of the trees native to the area in which it was made, my best guesses would be birch or elm, maple, and basswood or poplar. I will get into where each was used as I deconstruct the thing.
Metal pieces would have been difficult to fabricate and expensive to purchase, so their use was kept to an absolute minumum. Could he have bought the metal pieces, or had a machinist make them for him? It's a possiblity. The pieces c

