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Panel flattening...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I left off with four carcase panels which needed to be dimensioned and flattened to exact and uniform thickness. At this point, the panels are roughly at the final thickness and ready to be hand planed for a smooth, uniform finish across the complete panel in both width and length. I use an accurate solid steel straightedge to determine the high spots on the panels, this after a final check with winding sticks to check for any small, remaining twist. The process I use is to slide the steel straightedge across the width of each panel along its length and marking with a pencil any dips or bumps or any cupping. Since each of these panels is approximately 14 inches wide, there is bound to be some irregularity on the surfaces until I hand plane these surfaces. Each side of each panels is flattened similarly with the final thickness of each board constantly in mind. The final thickness, in this case 11/16 inch, needs to be accurately maintained throughout the panels, both across the panel and along the length of the panel. I have made a few passes with a long jointer plane with a long bearing surface to make quick work of any bumps and hollows over the length of the panels.

Afterwards, I switch to a smoother plane and smooth the panels further until the high and low spots disappear, all the while I reducing the depth of iron in my smoother plane to take progressively lighter shavings. I'm also using my widest smoother, No. 4.5, for this application, this provides less overlap in the plane strokes and covers more area quickly. A stick of wax is your friend when doing this type of work, this keeps the hand plane gliding smoothly and somewhat effortlessly. When I assembled the panels from boards earlier I made sure to orient the grain of the boards in the same direction, this decision is now obvious as a wise decision since hand planing can be accomplished in the correct direction.

Once I have a rhythm established, flattening these panels is actually an enjoyable task. Tearout is non-existent since I'm planing with the grain and the beech panels are fairly tame, so all I get is nice, fluffy shavings. I had to watch myself to not get carried away. At this time, I have four panels hand planed to thickness (uniform thickness) and perfectly smooth , as determined from some final checking with the solid steel straightedge.


Next I will dimension each of the two side panels and the top and bottom panels to the final width and length which the design calls for.

John Niero - ICFF

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology Productions


Here's an excellent interview with a young furniture designer showing at the 2007 International Contemporary Furniture Fair.

The interview presents a very creative designer who plans on using the process of Rotational molding, which exposes us to a second manufacturing process available to furniture designers.

Our Contemporary Lingerie Cabinet is complete and you'll get your first look at here. The build had an excellent end result and needs its own post.

I'm back from vacation, a nice bareboat cruise through the Pacific Northwest, summer is ending and it time for a new peoject.

Enjoy this interview and look for the Lingerie finale and the start of a new project.

Neil

USA versus UK language usage

00/00/0000, 00:00 | David's blog
There is one variation of usage which has struck me forcibly after many years of reading American magazines and Reviews.

Larry Williams' wooden moulding ...

Better Turning?

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub
Time to be fair. Harbor Freight's turning chisels probably wouldn't have bent and broken as shown in the previous entry if I had the experience to know that:
  • They were not sharpened properly- The tools had several angles ground into them creating a convex shape. Properly sharpened tools are straight or concave (slightly hollow). This allows proper use of the bevel when cutting.
  • I was applying the tool incorrectly- I did not use the tools properly because from the beginning they were not ground properly (see above). So when I was attempting to sharpen them, I was not achieving anything other than to duplicate the way they arrived. This led to me failing to "ride the bevel". I was using all the tools as scrapers instead of cutting tools. That led to catches, shattering handles, bent tools, etc.
I really wish I had taken pics of the tool tips as they arrived. But these being my first set of tools, I had no idea they were anything other than acceptable.

Watching some video and reading some books led me to my first revelation: Sharpening. I was sharpening the tools very poorly, adding facets and a convex shape to the bevel. A very quick and dirty jig for my grinder changed that.

It's made from 3/4 MDF, glue and screws. The angle of the bed is easily adjustable by loosening a screw and moving the bed. A protractor of some kind is still needed to get any repeatability, but I find that setting the bed with the tool against the stone works as long as the bevel angle is trustworthy.

Light touches, and a cup of water nearby keep from blueing the carbon steel. I have in my budget to buy proper tools soon made from HSS and much more substantial than these flimsy little guys.

My second revelation came when I discovered cutting angles. Having the tool at right angles to the spinning workpiece is rarely the proper orientation. I found that cutting from side to side makes a world of difference. As does riding the bevel. The wood practically just falls off the workpiece when I find the sweet angle for that cut.

I'm still learning and making mistakes. That's cool. I'm having a blast anyway!

Here are a couple things that have come off my lathe:

The mug in the rear is made of laminated maple. That was done purely with my poor sharpening and tool control techniques. Good results, but took way longer than it should have.

The mug in the front is padauk and some kind of yellow wood veneer between the laminated layers. I started it with the poor technique, with it taking even longer than the maple one due to padauk's toughness. But the lessons learned were applied to it at the end, and even the padauk came slicing off with ease using properly sharpened tools and good technique.

The tool handle is cocobolo. Talk about a difficult wood to cut. I was at the grinder ever 2 minutes or so. The coco would dull the tools faster than anything I've cut so far. But it has an amazing grain and looks outstanding.

The play between the sapwood and heartwood is beautiful. The photos don't really do it justice, which is too bad. It is finished with just beeswax applied on the lathe. The ferrule is just a copper 3/4" plumbing coupler from Lowe's. 75c each. I ground it down a bit shorter than it was originally. I still need to polish it. The thing is just stuck on there for now to get a feel for how it will look completed. I added the little details at the front of the handle to give me a tactile warning when I'm choking up really high. Keeps me from having to look at my hands when turning, I know exactly where they are now.

I haven't decided which turning chisel to award this beauty to.

Episode 98 - Ask the Masters 17

00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!
In Part Two of the federal table wrap-up, Tommy talks to Steve about cutting the banding with a table saw. Then, Tommy drops by the shop to see what Eli is working on. With the table finished, the next project is already underway.

Podcast #35: Tuning a Hand Plane for Performance

00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com

If you’ve checked out a copy of Woodsmith or ShopNotes in the last couple of years, you may have noticed that articles about hand planes and their use have been showing up a little more often. That’s mostly because we have an editor who takes an active interest in promoting their usage — Randy Maxey.

Randy will spend an hour during this Woodsmith Woodworking Seminar Podcast to give us his tips for tuning up a hand plane, a very important procedure if you’ve ever tried to use one. As you may know, an out-of-tune plane, with a dull or nicked iron, can be a real pain to use. This seminar is for “users,” not “collectors.”

Be sure to check out the Woodsmith Podcast Store for links to a few products that Randy used during this seminar. There are also links to Seminar Guide at PlansNow.com

Tricking the Banana

06/01/2008, 17:59 | Lost Art Press Blog

One of the most common errors when planing is to create a gentle banana shape on one face ? where the ends of the board end up thinner than the middle.

The cause of this problem resides both in you and in your tool. First off, divide the sole of your plane into two regions: The infeed side of the sole before the blade (the toe). And the outfeed side of the sole behind the blade (the heel). And remember this: The blade of your plane isn?t co-planar with the outfeed side of your handplane.

This feature makes it different than your power jointer. As a result, a handplane has more of a tendency to make bananas. (By the way, you can make bananas ? and wedges ? with a power jointer as well).

But I think the tool?s role in banana-making is a minor problem. The bigger problem is you and where you are putting pressure on the tool as you plane. Here?s how it?s supposed to work:

At the beginning of the cut, plant the toe of your tool firmly against the work. With the hand on the front knob, put all of your downward pressure right there. Your other hand (on the tote) should only push the tool forward.

As soon as the entire sole is on the work, you should shift your pressure: Use equal and forceful downward pressure with both of your hands.

As soon as the toe runs off the end of the board, release the pressure there but continue to exert downward and forward pressure at the tote.

This work, but it can be a trick to remember for beginning planers. It?s hard to get all your muscles lined up. So I tell them this simple mental trick: Just try your darndest to plane a big old hollow valley in each board by scooping out the middle.

Planing a hollow in this manner is almost impossible to do with a handplane that has a flat sole. So what you wind up with is a board that is fairly consistent in its thickness.

I cannot take credit for this mental trick, but I can?t remember who told it to me years ago. But works like crazy. And with that aspect of planing under control, you can then turn your attention to removing cupping and twisting in your boards.

? Christopher Schwarz

For This I Get Paid? Part 3

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Popular Woodworking

As I mentioned in my entry from yesterday, my first order of business this morning (after stirring in the skin at the top of the glue pot -- blech) was to band saw away the waste on the inside of my bricked rim. I wanted to go early and get that out of the way, but at Marc Adams' school, power machinery can be used only between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. Those are the hours when a staff member is on hand to supervise.

Marc has been running his school since 1994, and in that time, there's been not one major accident on any machinery. That's because safety is of paramount importance to Marc and his staff. Exposure to blades is limited as much as possible by featherboards, hold-downs, shields, fences, sleds and more. As you can see in the picture at the top, in order to cut our table rim's tenon cheeks on the table saw, we had to keep our hands well above the blade in order to secure the workpiece against the jig attached to the miter gauge.

If there's a way to make the operation safe, Marc and his staff have found it, and they're adamant that while at the school, students and instructors follow their proven safety procedures. And they watch like hawks to ensure that happens. This can be frustrating at times -- but it also means that students go home not only with a great woodworking experience, but with all the digits with which they arrived.

On Wednesday, for example, we were crosscutting legs to length at the table saw. Two stops were set up to the left and right of the blade, attached to a sled. Plus a Lexan shield covered the blade. In order to get our leg stock into position, the sled had to be pulled far enough back to allow access to the table under the shield. And though we had a number of small offcuts, the shield prevented anyone from reaching too close (3" minimum) to the spinning blade. It seemed tedious to maneuver the pieces under the angled shield, but it caused the operation to be performed slowly and meticulously. As one of our class assistants, Doug Dale, said, "Often, the safest way is also the most accurate."

It's a great lesson, one I'll keep in mind when I get back to our shop. Now if only there were a Lexan shield to keep me from cutting into my tenons with a handsaw.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

Read Part 1 of this series here. And Part 2 is here.

Episode 25 - Bombe Series - Shaping the Dividers

00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!
Tommy is building up steam on the Bombe Secretary now and the next step is to shape the dividers of the pigeonhole assembly. rounding over 3/16" stock isn't a job for a router so Tommy makes a scratch stock out of an old scrapper. With 3 different radiuses in the scrapper he starts with a larger opening and rounds over the edge and then works his way down to the final size needed.

Getting in Touch With Our Inner Europe

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Popular Woodworking

I think I was in the DeWalt booth when I suddenly felt the tide turn.

One of the company’s product managers was explaining the new guard on the DeWalt jobsite table saw. It was one of the new riving-knife-based guards that all the manufacturers are installing on their machines to comply with new government standards.

“This guard is so easy to use,” the product manager says, “the user won’t have any excuse or reason not to use it.”

And with that he installed all three components of the guard on the saw in less than 17 seconds (I timed him).

When I say the tide turned at that moment, I mean that at that moment I realized how many times I had heard that same speech – and almost those same words – used by other manufacturers as they introduced their new European-style guards during the last 12 months.

Bosch, Delta, Steel City, Grizzly and Jet have all been eager to show off how easy their new guards are to use. Whereas during the last 13 years I’ve covered the industry, usually the guard was discussed like this: “And there is a clear plastic guard.”

Those old guards, which were required by government regulations, were practically useless (as we all know). And they’re rarely used. Heck most people probably couldn’t find their table saw’s guard hiding somewhere in their shop.

But now suddenly a safe saw is a selling point. Wow. That’s a big change. As I began to look around a bit, I realized that many European-style tools are now infiltrating our American shops. Don’t believe me?

In the last three years Festool has gone from being a niche toolmaker to a company that makes the tools that everyone wants to beat. The Festool Domino, a feat of European engineering, is probably the most visible evidence of this. But you also see other clues: DeWalt is introducing two plunging circular saws to compete directly with the Festool TS 55 EQ.

Last year Jet Tools introduced a new European jointer/planer – and this year is introducing another version of that machine with a helical cutterhead. SawStop has always used European guarding on its saws and has successfully used safety as a selling point – and the company just continues to expand.

Even Grizzly Industrial – long a mainstay of Taiwanese and Chinese manufacturing – has been putting down some Teutonic and Italian roots. Parts of some of Grizzly’s sliding table saws come from Germany and Italy. And right now, there are four Grizzly products that are made in Germany, including a sliding table saw and a wet sharpener. Plus the company is introducing more European-style machinery that is designed in Germany but built in China.

So what does this mean for U.S. woodworkers? Good things, for the most part. I’ve seen what Festool is planning on introducing to this country in the coming years, and a lot of it is exciting stuff. Plus, I’ve been in European workshops and can say they are safer and healthier places to work.

But the tools are more expensive (usually because of the quality). And I find that many of their machinery setups are more complex than ours (mostly because they use the guards properly).

So as the DeWalt’s new table saw guard clicked back into place onto the top of the saw I concluded a couple things: American woodworkers are due for some changes in the way we work. But I also bet that as Americans, we’ll find a way to mix the Budweiser with the Beaujolais to suit our tastes.

— Christopher Schwarz

Episode 4 - Tommy builds a BIG dining room table - Part 1

00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!
Tommy starts a BIG dining room table (approximately 14' long) and walks you through the wood selection, milling, sitckering, and routering out the top. As Tommy goes through this process he explains the science behind the wood. And don't adjust your computer screen, Tommy isn't turning into the hulk, just blowing off some steam.

introduction

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Traditional Tools & News
Greetings Folks, Having stumbled (I forget how) across this forum , and then having read the discussions on planes and cutting angles, specifically on bevel up format, I would like to introduce myself. Basically I am a cabinet maker, but also make the odd plane now and again-please see my web sites www.collectablefurniture.co.nz and www.marcouplanes.com. Pertaining to recent discussions folk may be interested to see that I have had a blitz on bevel up planes, having made smoothers bedded at 15 and 20degrees, a large block bedded at 20 degrees and a miter bedded at 12 degrees. I also made a hybrid bedded at 37 degrees, blade bevel up or down. I use Veritas A2 blades and my own D2 and O1 blades. At present I am making two smaller smoothers, 2" blade, 50 degree bed bevel DOWN. I welcome questions , suggestions and criticisms.

Safely Dealing with Big Cats

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving Off


It’s safety week on The Woodwhisperer Network.

I covered the vast majority of my safety knowledge last year when I posted about the guy who has to remove a shoe if he wants to count into double digits.

However, I did come up with an important safety thought that I should share:

Differentiate between woodshop tools and toolshed items before someone gets killed and someone ends up in prison. (I know that doesn’t make sense, so I”ll explain.)

It starts with the dog. Our dog Peyton is obsessed with chewing lumber. He’s always grabbing rough sawn cut-offs from the shop and running off to gnaw on them. When he’s out in the back yard, he will jump up and tear the lowest limbs off of the trees. He’s an insane little pruner who leaves jagged limb spurs for any tree appendages he can reach.

Last week my lovely wife Gail decided to clean up some of the trees in the back yard that Peyton had roughed up, so she asked me for a saw. I suppose I should have paid closer attention to her, because Gail is a go getter. After giving me plenty of time to respond to her request for a saw, Gail grabbed one out of my woodshop and went to town on the trees in the backyard. She said that saw sure cut through those branches even though it was not a saw specifically designed for pruning trees. Can you guess what kind of saw she used?

Was it my dovetail saw? No.

Was it my Carcass Saw? No.

Was it my Tenon Saw? No.

Was it a DeWalt Reciprocating Saw? No.

Was it a Coping Saw? No.

Was it a Fret Saw? No.

Gail has style. When the dog jumps up and buggers up the lower limbs of the trees in our back yard, Gail cleans them up with a Panther Saw.

At first I was a little upset, but after hearing her describe how well it cut, I decided to try for myself. Wow…that Panther really does cut!!!!!

My safety advice is to pay attention when a loved one asks to borrow a tool. Gail and I got lucky. The borrowing of the Panther Saw worked out this time, but it could have easily had a disastrous outcome. A kinked blade or a dinged horn would have clearly led to a rumble in the backyard, and only one of us would have walked away.

Gail, you’ve been warned. Touch my Panther Saw again, and I’ll cut you!!!!

A link to the mothership

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Musings From My Shop

I wrote once before about the generous gift I received from Kori Capaldi, Operations Manager of the Gamble House. I met Kori when I was in Pasadena for Pasadena Heritage Craftsman Weekend in October. Because I spent quite a bit of time at “THE house” for various tours and receptions, I got a chance to talk with Kori for a while. I told her about the chest I was building and that the lid would be restrained by a leather strap. A month or so after I returned home Kori sent me an email and asked if I’d like a piece of the leather that was used in the Gamble house when the leather straps on the lighting fixtures were replaced several years ago.

Of course I said “No” and that was the end of it. OK, maybe I said “Yes” and tried not to appear overly anxious in the process. You see, the Gamble house is tantamount to a religious shrine for those of us afflicted with serious cases of Greene-itis. It is indescribably beautiful. I mean that literally. No attempt to convey, using words, that amazing vision can end in anything but utter failure. Thus, to have a tangible link between the core of the G&G universe and one of my pieces of furniture is very special indeed.

Though I’ve had the leather for some time now, I’ve just completed installing it. I didn’t want to be hasty -- it had to be just right. I spent hours scouring the internet for the perfect rivets to use to attach it and the search paid off. I found a product even better than I had hoped for. Screw posts are similar to rivets but because they screw together they are removable. So if I ever have to remove the lid of the chest I won’t have to cut the leather (Actually, I wouldn’t have been able to cut the leather I would have asked my wife to do it. When I wasn’t home.). And with persistence I was able to find them in solid brass with an oil-rubbed bronze patina. With that final piece of the puzzle in place, the installation is complete. And it was worth the wait. Thanks Kori.

By the way, this chest is the subject of an article to appear in the April issue of Popular Woodworking (available early March). Unfortunately, I didn’t have the Gamble leather when photos were shot for the article -- in the magazine you’ll see a piece of upholstery leather leftover from a Morris chair project.

Flush Cut Shield

00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com

You can sharpen your woodworking skills with helpful tips and techniques from the editors of Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines. Get a FREE tips sent to your email address each week! Got to Woodworking Tips.com and sign up today.

Here’s last week’s tip from Woodsmith online editor Ted Raife:

Whenever I use screws to assemble a project, I hide them under wood plugs. Cutting the plugs and gluing them in place is the easy part of the job. The bigger challenge comes once the glue dries — trimming the plugs flush to the surface.

For me, this is a two-step process. First, I use a small back saw to trim off the bulk of the protruding plug. Then I sand or plane the remaining portion flush to the surface. But my lack of care with the back saw often led to problems. If I tried to cut the plug too close, I would scratch or gouge the surface, making more work for myself.

But as is usually the case, a small problem had a simple solution. I dug up a scrap of plastic laminate and made a flush cut shield. The laminate shield has a hole drilled through it slightly larger than the diameter of the plugs. You place the shield over the plug flush to the surface and then saw away without worry (Figure 1). The thin shield allows you to give the plug a very close trim and all that’s needed to finish the job is a little sanding (Figure 2).

20080320ws.gif

For more helpful project tips, techniques, and plans, visit Plansnow.com.

Good Woodworking,

Ted Raife
Online Editor, Woodsmith

Building a Bookcase Part IV

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworkers Resource

In this episode we look at attaching a fixed shelf by two different methods: Biscuit Joinery and with a Stopped Dado Joint.

Next, we look at different ways to reinforce our shelves so they won't sag under the weight that's put on them. We also talk about a cool program that can calculate for you, based on information you put in, whether your shelves are strong enough to support what you intend to put on them.

Finally, we look at how to cut the rabbit joints into the side pieces for the back to fit into so you end up with a nice, clean looking fit.

Thanks so much for watching, we hope you enjoy!

And as always, if you have any questions, or want more information, go to our website:

www.WoodworkersResource.com

Craig Stevens

A Scottish visitor with California plates

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner

I first met Stuart Page at The festival of the Tree last August. He was there for the full 3 days and spent a good portion of his time bouncing between Rob Cosman, John Lloyd and myself. He was very enthusiastic, full of great questions and insight - we all loved having him around our respective booths.

Many months ago, Stuart contacted me to let me know he was planning a 3 month travelling tour of North American furniture makers and toolmakers and was wondering if he could stop in for a visit. It was great to hear from him again and I was quite excited to have him over.

On June 23rd - Stuart arrived in Los Angeles. He has been keeping a blog - curiously named, One hairy arm goes west. One of his first stops was to see Sam Maloof - and I am very envious of that visit. Sam is on that very short list of people I would dearly like to meet (along with Harrison Ford and Maynard James Keenan). And after Stuarts description of their time together - I am all the more green.

He arrived on Tuesday afternoon (July 23rd) around 3. I was on the main floor working away on an A1ss panel plane (more on that in another entry). He had just driven from Calgary... and to use his words - was a little “road worn”.

Stuart was very direct about his intentions the minute he walked in to the shop. He did not want to get in the way of my regular schedule and workday... but was hoping for a “fly on the wall” approach. I was pleased (and a little relieved) to hear this - and it turned out to be a wonderful experience.

At one point, Stuart offered to help in the shop with things that are challenging for someone to do on their own. Hmmmm... a shop helper....?

I need to back up a bit. I have two amazing sets of planes that I am itching to start into... but I am waiting for the last few % of moisture to come out of the Ebony. Quite frankly - I am really tired of waiting... so I started thinking about building a kiln. In the June 2006 of Woodwork magazine (No. 99), Ejler Hjorn-Westh wrote a wonderful article about building a kiln for under $500. This seemed like the perfect project for Stuart and I. I handed him the article and he just smiled... perfect.

Hmmm... where to put it?

We walked around the shop to find an empty spot for a 20"x 20"x 7' item. The best location was the first one we discussed - above one of the 48"to 60" shorts storage areas.

I had some scrap plywood from previous adventures - but we needed two 4'x8' sheets of plywood. I figured I would treat Stuart to the full North American experience and introduce him to the often understaffed “Orange Box”. I shouldn't complain... they did cut the two sheets to size for us.

Anyway - a few hours later - we had a kiln. Here are a few photos.



It tucked in perfectly above the shorts storage - and I didn't even have to move the phone or the furnace switch!



Here it is with the door open.



The baffle is a 1/4" piece of peg board.



The opening on the right is the dry air return to keep the air circulating.

I will be drying a test piece of Ebony to see how it goes. I will certainly post the results - regardless of how it turns out.

Thanks again Stuart for all your help with the kiln and keeping me company between piening, lapping and shaping.

Oh, and the one hairy arm... it really is ONE hairy arm... the other is pretty clean shaven.

Hawaiian Koa Wood Rings

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wooden Rings from Touch Wood Rings
Hawaiian Koa wood is so beautiful. It's different in every kind of light, sometimes golden, sometimes dark but always luminous with a depth of figure and grain that is almost unparalled. The golden toned wood in the purple heartwood set is Hawaiian Koa.














Here is a recent set of Hawaiian Koa Wood rings that David created for a lovely couple in Austin, Texas.






And, a little ring-related story from Alina: "I babysit a 2-year old boy Ethan (who I am training as a botanist). I see him weekly and we have awesome adventures! One day, his mom Julie was helping me pack up the stroller for our walk to the park. I snapped Ethan in to his seat and Julie gasped loudly! I thought for sure I must have caught his fingers in the buckle or something. By the time I realized he was fine and in one piece, Julie had grabbed my hand and was admiring the koa ring in the sunlight. It was an amazing reaction -- one of real awe to make her gasp. Pretty great. Anyway, my compliments to David once again. "




Build - Build - Build and inside the shop of a craftsman

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology Productions

This post intro's with a sound clip from the Chris Schwarz interview by Matt of Matts Basement Workshop. If you are a listener of the Basement Workshop, many of you will agree, that few just plan love the craft more than Matt.

I address and rededicate my passion for the Build and lead into a video produced for the Furniture Society Blog blogmaster David Richardson.

The video goes into the shop of David Ebner, where he graciously shares his craft in demonstartion. Mr Ebner will be a presenter at this years Furniture Society Conference.

Enjoy this post, it was fun to produce.

Formats available: Quicktime (.mov)

Phew!

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner
My apologies to everyone for the missing website during the last several days. And also my deepest thanks to everyone who phoned, emailed and posted their concerns about the situation. It seems my domain name registration had expired - thankfully - it is up and running again.

Cheers,
Konrad

Door panels (4)...

00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
Once the mortises for the knife hinges are successfully created and care is taken to make certain the offsets are uniform and the depth of each knife leaf is consistent, the next step is to temporarily install the doors while fitting each door to the cabinet. The reveal around each door is important as well as any small differences in how the doors hang within the cabinet frame. In this photo the cabinet is reversed in orientation top to bottom for me to work on the fitting. The left door is in the photo. The knife hinges have a very small amount of leeway for me to adjust the doors so the reveal at both the top and bottom and the center part between doors is uniform.

I also need to be conscious of how the outside edges fit the cabinet , they need to be parallel and in the same plane as the cabinet sides. The fitting of the doors can be somewhat time consuming but in my opinion this needs to be done correctly at this stage or the visual impact of a non-uniform reveal will be very apparent later.

After completing this fitting and knife hinge adjustment I will be creating the lip at the juncture of the doors in the middle of the cabinet. The lip serves to hide any open space between the doors and also to create an interlocking, positive closure for the doors. The right hand door will have a rabbeted lip whereas the left hand door will have a additional piece of beech added to the rear of the center edge of the door to form a mating lip. To maintain grain matching I have pieces of beech left over from the same plank I used to resaw the veneers earlier.

We have plenty of snow up here at this time , more than the average winter, and my wife and I will be leaving for a skiing trip at a resort next week. We're both crazy about spring skiing and there is plenty of nice weather coming up.

He's Back....

08/27/2008, 09:58 | Philsville

Hi Folks
Westonbirt is over - and what a great event it was too!
Another day or two and I should have recovered (mostly) after a hectic but very enjoyable five days. A highlight for me was the "communal living" aspect - most of the exhibitors camped on-site and our host, Mike Hancock, was kind enough to put on a chef to cater for us. Eating, working and drinking (oh, the drinking!) together made for a unique and very enjoyable experience. It's kind of bizarre to be sat under the stars chatting away with an international selection of woodworking superstars!
The standard of work at the show was very, very high and there was a huge variety of wood related disciplines on show. I'll post some more pictures as the week goes by (and I catch up on some sleep - you forget how good it is to sleep in a bed) And also recount the "International Football Match" that took place on the Saturday night ;)
So - the first picture. Many thanks must go to my "glamorous assistant" Mike Riley, who was kind enough to join me at the show. Couldn't have done it without you ;)
Cheers
Philly

A Better Steel Rule

00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com

I have a fascination with measuring tools — especially steel rules. I seem to collect them. I think it’s partly because I can never find one when and where I need it. And partly because they’re so inexpensive, I don’t break out into a cold sweat or have to come up with an explanation for my wife whenever I buy one.

But there’s a problem I’ve always had with steel rules. I have a hard time seeing the graduations. At least in my shop, I have to angle the rule just right in the light to be able to see what I’m doing. That’s true even for the better-quality rules that are etched (instead of stamped) and have a matte chrome finish.

I finally found something better, at least for my poor eyes. Enco sells a line of EZ-View® Rules that I really like. What’s different about them is that they have a matte black finish and filled white etchings for the numbers and graduations. You can see them on this catalog page. I have the 6″ pocket rule and the 12″ and 18″ steel rules. All of the ones I have are type “4R” (8th’s and 16th’s on one side, 32nd’s and 64th’s on the other). The ones I have are rigid, but they’re available in flexible versions, too.

Episode 12 - Bombe Series - Cleaning a dado with a router plane

00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!
What's the best way to ensure a perfect dado? With a router plane. Tommy demonstrates why and how to use the router plane, a simple but valuable tool in a woodworker's arsenal.

WOOD Magazine Featured Project

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology Productions

The cradle you see on the cover of the September 2007 issue of WOOD Magazine is my winning design from WOOD Magazine's  Build-a-Gift Contest.

Kevin Boyle and the editors at WOOD did a fabulous job. The magazine write-up is excellent, complete with full scale templates. A slide show produced by the editors is also availble for viewing, at the WOOD web-site.

The video we've produced here, goes through the design progression that lead to being the featurer project. As you continue to build, you will find you have designs at the ready.

Enjoy and please share in my excitement.

Neil

Formats available: Quicktime (.mov)

Italian Olive Wood Rings

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wooden Rings from Touch Wood Rings
David just finished these rings incorporating olive wood sent to us by a couple who live in Ithaca, New York.

Katherine's ring is blue spruce and incorporates their olive wood as an inlaid band. Nate's ring is solid olive wood.

When Nathaniel first made contact with us he told us about his cousin's family in Italy who own a small farm with olive and fruit trees. "This farm is a special place for me. What's more, Katherine and I will be spending a portion of our honeymoon there." So with some serious effort on the part of Nate and his cousin d'Angio; a branch of an Italian olive tree has been transformed by David into Katherine and Nathaniel's Italian Olive wood wedding rings.







Dear Nicola and David,
The rings arrived and we couldn't be more pleased. They fit perfectly and are exactly what we wanted. Thank you both so much for your efforts. And thank you for providing such a beautiful alternative to traditional wedding rings. We just can't say enough good things...
Thank you.
Best wishes,
Katherine and Nathaniel

A backyard loss & a surprising new saw

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner

When we first moved to our house in Kitchener - the backyard was quite overgrown. It was clear to us that it had not been maintained for some time. We cleared out 75% of the overgrown shrubs and crooked small trees just so we could see what we were dealing with. There was a very large, Norway maple in the middle of the yard, which had clearly been neglected. One side had been butchered, resulting in the main crotch of the tree holding quite a bit of moisture. A few bold plants had even taken root! We knew it was only a matter of time before things started falling - and last summer we lost a very large branch. I was at Westonbirt in England at the time.

With the current trend towards harsh weather - Jill and I were nervously biting our nails watching from the windows with each thunderstorm.

It was time for the tree to come down.



On August 22nd - the chainsaws arrived and the tree was reduced to a pile of firewood length logs. And even more curious - it came down as I was arriving on the grounds of Westonbirt this year. I returned home to a very sunny backyard. There is an old adage that involves lemons and lemonaid... and in that spirit - this tree removal was a good thing. I grew up with a large vegetable garden in the yard - and I have always hoped our kids would be able to experience this as well. Now we can. There is a great sunny spot along a fence that will be perfect.

Some of the limbs were not cut into firewood lengths yet, and as a bit of a lark, I went into the shop to retrieve a recent purchase - a large Japanese saw. I wasn't expecting much to be honest - but boy was I wrong (and in hindsight - I should have known better!).



This is a crosscut timber saw which I am pretty sure is called a Temagori. One of the first things I noticed was the graduated teeth were frightfully sharp and the balance of the saw was very different. It was really heavy in the toe - but as soon as I placed it on the log - it all made sense.
I started the kerf with the smaller teeth (towards the handle). In this position - the weight at the toe held the saw down. All I did was pull - and as the speed quickened - the larger teeth kicked into high gear and removed a tremendous amount of wood. Because of the angle of the handle - the teeth are forced down just by the act of pulling. I did not apply and downward pressure at all. The second stroke was just like the first - but even easier because the kerf was already started. Binding appeared to be a non-issue. I also found myself feeling for the straightest pull - and once I was focusing on that - the saw did all the work. It was effortless to use really - no downward pressure required - the weight of the saw did the cutting. It is a marvel of engineering. So I just started cutting stuff - as Jill peered from the window just shaking her head.



Here are the markings on the blade.



One of the great things about the saw is the teeth are so large, that the complex geometry is very clear.

Oh, and we have already scheduled a new maple tree to be planted in early October. It will be in a new location - so that is shades the house and our patio table in the summer.

And the tree did get the last laugh in the end. Not only were there huge sections of very curly maple - there was quite a bit of birds eye as well. 14" drawer fronts anyone?
Add Image

Segmented Double Knot

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking Dungeon
Here's the latest pen. This is a Sapele Cigar pen with a segmented celtic double knot made of Maple and Cherry.
There are 32 pieces in the segmented knot - 16 Maple and 16 Cherry. The picture below shows better detail of the knot, but the picture above best shows the true colors of the pen.

This pen is going to be donated to my daughter's school for an upcoming fundraiser.

the Continued Transformation

00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking Dungeon
My last post showed how a piece of pine being used in my current project looks before I start working on it.

After running the board through the planer and jointer, it then looks like this:


The planer gets rid of the nasty looking rough surface and leaves what resembles a typical looking board.

This typical looking board is then glued to another typical looking board to create a wider typical looking board. When that wider typical looking board is sanded, it looks more like this:


stay tuned as progress continues...

Interview with Tim McCready

09/10/2008, 02:57 | A Woodworking Odyssey
One of the pleasures of having a public blog site comes from relationships developed over the Web. Somehow, people find the blog, and sometimes they comment. Sometimes comments become conversations, and sometimes (read "this time") those conversations lead to something more.

Tim McCready?long-time cabinet maker, author of The Wood Mechanic blog, and president of Bankston & Bailey LLC, a fine woodworking shop in Virginia?commented on one of my entries, and during the resulting off-blog conversation I mentioned wanting to start a series of interviews and shop tours with dedicated woodworkers. Tim agreed to be the first interview. I think when you read the interview you'll be happy he did.

_____________________________________________________________

How did you start woodworking?
I started woodworking completely by chance. Through a mutual friend, I came to Harrison (Higgins)'s attention right when his shop needed an extra pair of hands. For the first several months I didn't do much but catch boards coming out of machines. He had a contract job making furniture for one of the hotels at Colonial Williamsburg, and he needed one more grunt laborer.

One aspect of the job was a production run of roughly 100 maple pencil post beds. Rough 8/4 lumber would be sawn and dressed into 8-foot blanks 1 ? square in cross section. The blanks would be marked then mortised for headboards and rails as required. The tapers were cut on the bandsaw, and holes were bored for bed bolts.

Once all of this relatively interesting work was done, and a giant pile of pencil posts had materialized on a pair of saw horses in the middle of the shop floor, an apprentice had to remove the machine marks with a hand plane and sand each facet of the post for an eternity.

Guess who got that job! It was extreme drudgery, but I did learn how to use a plane effectively. Eventually I also learned how to carve the lamb's tongue that marked the transition from the tapers to the lower, flat section of the posts.
What is the first project you completed that inspired pride?
The first piece I can remember feeling proud of was a desk I made for myself after hours at Harrison's shop. It's still my main desk, but now all I see are its flaws and its telltale signs of having been made by a not-yet-very-skilled amateur. Luckily, though, I feel a certain sense of satisfaction?if not pride?whenever I make something well.

I know I've made something well when there's a seamlessness that proceeds from the initial daydreaming through the design and fabrication and finally the finish. It's a good feeling. I wish I could say I felt it with every project, but I don't. My mood and mindset seem to have at least as much to do with my work's quality as any objective skill level I may possess.

You mention working with Harrison Higgins, a talented furniture maker who specializes in reproduction work. Can you tell us more about how you came to work for him, and what you remember most about your time in his shop?
A guy named Lewis who worked at Harrison's shop in the early 90's had seen my band play, and he and I had several mutual friends in the Richmond music scene. I ran into him outside the shop once on my way to the post office, and he invited me in to see the place.

Harrison and his partner Alan (the finisher) didn't want anything to do with me. They saw a skinny shaven-headed punk kid, and they didn't figure I'd be a very reliable worker if I was going to be out at all hours doing the band thing. They only hired me because they just really needed that extra pair of hands.

In retrospect I see all of this as having been one of the most fortuitous events of my life. Alan and Harrison are still two of my best friends and have been like additional fathers to me--although maybe big brothers would be more like it.

What I remember most about my time at Harrison's shop is the relationships with the other people. There were between 6 and 9 of us while I worked there ('92-'98), and while not all of the personalities meshed, we did manage to get along reasonably well and to produce some of the finest woodworking I've seen.

Sometimes there was a quasi-monastic aspect to the place, when everyone was at his bench doing handwork and there was no music or machine work. On the other hand, we could act like a bunch of total nitwits at times as well, and I have a slew of funny and extremely fond memories of my time there.

Harrison moved his shop a couple of years ago, and I started mine right around the corner. So I still see everyone there a few times a week. I wish everyone could have some kind of work experience like that, where they're making something tangible with trustworthy, kind people.
When you worked with Harrison, it sounds like you learned a ton. What was it like working with him?
It was a big mix of things. He remains one of my very closest friends, and as my shop is just a few blocks from his, I see him often. As much as anything, he was a kind of second father/big brother to me. Most of what I gained in my time with him was personal, although I don?t mean to down-play the importance of learning my trade.

He?s a weird teacher. He is so much more visual than verbal, so for example, when asked how he carves ball-and-claw feet, he once answered, ?Well, I just take away everything that doesn?t look like a ball or a claw.? All of us who know him well enjoy razzing him about this tendency of his.
In one of your blog posts you mentioned having a Festool TS 75. Do you find it was worth the price? What can you tell those of us that cringe at the price of Festool products, but wonder if they might just be worth it?
The Festool TS 75 would be worth twice its price for what I do. I use it constantly for rough sizing sheet goods before I cut them to their final size on the tablesaw. It's so much easier and safer that way. If I didn't work alone, I'm not sure I'd need it since there would be someone around to help me move full sheets around. As it is, it's an incredibly useful tool. I've used it to crosscut 12/4 maple (in two cuts), to crosscut table leaves, and all sorts of other things.

One of the things I find amazing about the TS 75 is that it cuts bevels so accurately. Somehow they engineered it so that when it tilts over, it still cuts exactly along the guide rail's line. Because of that it can be used to cut long mitered parts quite accurately.

I also have the Festool Domino which I find indispensable in my case work. Once I've bored the holes for the domino I find that my cases go together pretty much like legos. The Domino, however, isn't as precisely engineered as it could be. There's something slightly wonky about guidelines indicating center on the cutter; I haven't quite put my finger on it yet. In any event, I use it all the time and it's a big time saver. I had hoped that it would eliminate the need for a mortiser, and so far it has. I think, though, that it would be very hard to do the large mortises necessary for, say a bed without a mortiser.
In general, my philosophy is "Cry once when you buy a tool instead of crying the thousands of times you actually have to use it." This is not an original idea of mine--I read something similar in an online forum somewhere, and I found that it rang true.
You bought an amazing 72" straight edge at an auction, and I know you have an old 12" jointer. What other old "treasures" do you have? Are there any that you can't live without?
There's really only one other treasure, a pattern maker's combination square. We used to consider it the square of reference at Harrison's shop, and for a long time while I was doing work besides cabinetmaking, my friend Reid was in possession of it. He was displeased when I reclaimed it. I suppose it's comparable to a new, top-of-the-line Starrett.

I use my Lie-Nielsen low-angle block plane a lot. It's the only very nice plane I have, and it was well worth the initial investment. I'm considering buying their #4 to replace the #4 Record I've always been lukewarm about.

I wish I had more nice stuff, but that's always a work in progress.
You have worked in a professional woodshop, and in your own "shop" at home. At one time, the home shop was just your back porch with a handful of portable tools. What techniques, if any, carried over from the professional shop to the back porch? And what would you say are the ESSENTIAL tools for the back porch craftsman?
Only the basic ways of thinking about case building transferred to that piece I built on the deck, specifically the marking system I use to keep parts straight. Everything else was improvised. Honestly, that wasn't very enjoyable, and I wasn't very pleased with the results. Plus it was really cold!

If one had no choice but to have a knockdown shop in the back yard, my best advice would be to build a flat reference surface. A solid torsion box does the trick. Fine Woodworking online has articles about how to do it. Without a flat surface, building square cases is nearly impossible.
Did you ever build the incredible gazebo you mocked up, with the fir mantle and built in fireplace? I want one ;)
Heck no!!! Sometimes my wife and I dream big...what can I say? I do want to mock that up in SketchUp now that I'm proficient. We were thinking that if we ever built that it would become our main living room. The best part would be that the cats wouldn't be invited!

In 2006 you described a table you built like this: "The drawer is pulled from the underside, so it appears to just be an apron. I love hidden things like that." What other hidden features have you built? Have you ever hidden something in the architectural moldings you build at work?
I once made a blanket chest for my niece, which has a hidden compartment that houses a key. I kept the lock. I always thought it would be fun to send her on a scavenger hunt later in her life where she?d have to decipher clues. The key?s location would be one of the final clues, and the lock would secure some kind of treasure. Anyhow, that was my intention when I made the chest.

A good friend of mine has a beautiful William and Mary highboy with a hidden map drawer. The crown molding along the front of the piece is actually the drawer face. I love that!
I loved the parquetry you did (or was it inlay?) on the toy chest: you know, the one with the faux finish that looked like jade. I guess that's not a question, but there you have it.
That?s actually a faux finish simulating malachite. A good friend of mine is an expert faux finisher and gilder, and she walked me through that process. It was not difficult although it was fairly involved. One drags a piece of leather through the dark paint to create those swirls. People either love or hate that chest. I admit that it is a bit much.
What is your favorite of all the pieces you've built?

That?d probably be the serpentine top Federal Pembroke table.



In 2006 you built 6 cupolas and said "framing the first cupola base took four hours. The subsequent five only took an hour and a half apiece." Is this typical?
I think that the time savings after the first instance of any multiple is just what comes naturally. Making the first element involves a lot of thinking, checking, double-checking, and correcting. Usually the subsequent parts become second nature to crank out. The cupolas were an extreme example. I?d never made anything like those before, so the first one took a lot longer while I figured out what in the heck I was doing.
You finally opened your own shop last year and stopped working for someone else. Can you tell us a bit about what led you to that decision, and how did you get the courage to finally do it?
I had become very bored at the large architectural millwork shop at which I was working in ?06 and ?07. That business was closely tied to the mortgage market, and the big developers who ordered custom goods from the shop were some of the first to take the sub-prime nosedive.

A lot of those big developers work on very flimsy financing, as it turns out. The net effect for me at that shop was that there was literally no work to do. For a variety of reasons too boring to detail here, the company not only remained in business, but it also didn?t lay anyone off or even reduce hours. Many people I worked with considered it a great arrangement, but I can?t imagine anything worse than clocking in at 7:30, standing around all day, then clocking out at 5:00.

At first I started taking work on the side, and when that went well, I finally jumped ship. I suppose?per your question?that a certain amount of courage was involved, but mostly I am motivated by the avoidance of boredom.
After a year in business for yourself, what can you tell us about owning your own shop? What surprised you most about being the proprietor?
The biggest surprise of owning my own business is the intensity of the psychology of pricing. I?ve been surprised when very wealthy clients have balked at what I consider very fair prices. I?ve bitten my nails thinking I?d bid too high on something, not heard from the client for a month, and then gotten the work after all. It drives me crazy, and I think it probably drives my wife crazy hearing about it all the time. I?ve gotten jobs and later learned that my bid was twice that of the next guy, and I?ve lost bids to lower bidders. It doesn?t seem to make any sense.

Hands down, the hardest part of this is the worry over whether or not new work will be coming along.

There have been many other lessons along the way, most of which boil down to the importance of sitting down and rationally considering problems before taking action. Doing so has been especially helpful in deciding which equipment purchases to make. I?d love to call Lee Valley and tell them to send me one of everything, but obviously if I did that the only business I?d be able to operate is a giant yard sale!
Were there things you should have thought about and didn't?
Not really. But only because I?ve been thinking about doing this for so long! It?s not that there haven?t been challenges, it?s just that I had already had the opportunity to think through the big issues.
You're building your dream shop (I think). What have you done right? What have you done (if anything) that you would have avoided?
I rent a 1,200 sq. ft. space which is about right for a one-man shop, so that was a good decision. I shopped around until I found a good combination of low rent and good location. I only buy tools and machines as I need them for projects, and I do my best to build equipment costs into bids. I have bought a mix of top-of-the-line new equipment (Laguna, Festool) and solid old equipment (a jointer from 1910, a late 80?s Delta table saw). I haven?t sprung for central dust collection yet which has its upside (saved money) and downside (lots of dust)!

So far, so good. There?s nothing I?ve done that feels like a big mistake just yet. Give me some time, and we?ll see what I can goof up!
You just landed a contract for the Virginia state capitol. Can you tell us about what you're doing for them, and how you plan to approach it?
Over the past five years or so, our state capitol has undergone an amazing renovation and expansion. In the new area, which is underground, there are two gallery spaces, each roughly 1,600 square feet. There was a bit of a rush to finish the construction for the big Jamestown 400 year celebration and the visit of Queen Elizabeth.

During that rush, there was little time for curatorial decision making in the gallery spaces. Basically, the decision makers in charge are getting to that now, and I?ve designed?and will soon start fabricating?the museum case pieces which will begin to unify the aesthetic of the galleries. They?re simple, veneered cases with acrylic vitrines and will house art objects and architectural models. There is also one massive piece (roughly 8? wide and 12? tall) that will display four flags on flagpoles.

Once I?ve made final drawings in SketchUp, I?ll cut pieces to rough size, edgeband the top edges, veneer the backs with poplar, veneer the fronts with anigre, miter the outside edges, and assemble the cases with band clamps and glue.

Truncated pyramids will sit inside the cases, and vitrines will fit precisely between the inside case edges and the outside edges of the pyramids. Some cases (like the one displaying a large marble bust) will require additional structure inside to accommodate the objects. That?s the basic idea.
In one blog post, you suggested that degree programs for furniture making are impractical at best, and possibly damaging to the graduates (I'm reading a lot into your comment, I know). Assuming I read your meaning correctly, what would you say to graduates of these programs that might help them once they get into the working world?
I'm not sure I've been completely fair about this, but here is the fundamental problem I?ve noticed: Many of these programs teach people how to do top-notch work, but at a snail?s pace. I remember a job applicant who had just finished at North Bennett coming to Harrison?s shop. He showed us a photograph of a gorgeous Federal demilune table with all manner of amazing veneers and stringing. So far, so good. But when Harrison asked him how long it took him to make it, he replied, ?Six months.? At $50/hour, six months of shop time is in the $50,000 range, which nobody gets for an occasional table.

In my view, places like North Bennett would be optimal for independently wealthy people or retirees who want to become highly-skilled amateur woodworkers. I?m not sure it?s the place to go if the