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00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking Dungeon
About Shellac
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub
Many of my projects use shellac in at least some part of the finish. It was the first finish I was able to apply well, it's a natural and renewable product (at least, when mixed yourself... Off the shelf stuff may not be fully natural), and it looks great.
The only downsides are low abrasion resistance and low liquid resistance. That's it. Not so good for table tops, great for pens!
The pencil shown in the photo at right is made from kingwood finished with several coats of 1# shellac. This was my first penturning attempt and I still use it every day. The finish is still great.
Shellac.net has some good info on shellac. Their "Why Shellac" article is good:
Shellac is a good choice for
furniture, smal craft, and wood instruments because it is ..
- Beautiful, Lustrous
- Easy to apply
- Dries within minutes
- Sticks to almost anything!
- Seals in minutes
- Can be recoated within 15-20 minutes if wiped
- Can be recoated within 2 hours if brushed
- Infinitely easier to rub out
- Easily repaired
- Has good clarity
- Completely reversible
- Feels well in the hand
- Offers a wide range of colors without sacrificing clarity
- Environmentally safe
- Healthier
- Compatible with most other finishes
- Once you shellac, ain't no going back!
Shellac is made from secretions of the Lac bug. It is sold either prepared or in flake form that you mix yourself with denatured alcohol. Shellac is used for more than just wood finishes. It can be found in medicines as a pill coating and packaged foods to add a shine to glazes or candies. It's completely edible when cured and safe around children.
If you haven't tried shellac yet, get a small can of prepared shellac and play with it. If you like it, buy some flakes and alcohol and start mixin' yer own.
Antique Pergola (Joglo)
09/09/2008, 06:01 | Antique Knockdown Carved Wood House
Joglo is a skeleton of the main building of the traditional house of Kudus.
Joglo is constructed with Soko Guru that formed as four main pillars and its nine stacks (pengeret tumpang songo) or five stacks (tumpang lima) or three stacks (tumpang telu) on the top.
The function of joglo structure except as the main support of the house, also use as support to where the roof lying on and in order to get the Pencu style roof (the towering roof)
Recently, joglo can be applicated as :* Decorating of the house yard
* Support of the roof to get Pencu style.
* Placed in the edge of the pools as a relaxing place
* Placed in the house yard or garden
* Placed in the backyard or terrace at the back house
* Garage or as a roof protection of a car
* Soko Guru or support of pendopo
Build Your Own Custom Powermatic Table Saw
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com 
There are guys that “trick out” their cars…or motorcycles…with fancy paint jobs and chrome. Why not do the same with the tools in your shop? Wood Werks Supply in Columbus, Ohio is giving you the opportunity to order a customized Powermatic table saw.
To quote Wood Werks Supply:
“This won’t be just any saw. We start with the award winning Powermatic PM2000 10″ table Saw. We’ll Blanchard Grind the top, add the reliablility of an American Made Baldor® motor, then install your favorite accessories. You’ll decide exactly what color it will be, and we’ll finish it off by prominently displaying your name on the front of your perfect saw.”
Create and order your customized Powermatic PM2000 here. I created the one you see in the photo here with just a few clicks. It’s got a 3hp, single-phase motor; paint colors to honor the OSU Buckeyes; and a cast iron extension wing with cast iron legs.
If you’d like to find out more and join in on the long-running discussion over on WoodNet, click here.
Matthew Harding
00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Village Carpenter
Mark from Woodfired introduced me to the inspiring work of his friend, Matthew Harding, a highly regarded woodworker, sculptor, and carver from Australia.
While there are many talented individuals in the visual arts, Matthew is extraordinarily gifted in diversity, as expressed in his broad range of style.
He has command of various materials, including wood, bronze & steel, and stone; and a firm grasp on balance, composition, design, and ori
ginality.Check out his website to see more of his artwork....and enjoy!
Podcast #22: Buying & Getting the Most Out of Your Band Saw
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comSome woodworkers consider a band saw the most useful tool in a woodworking shop. You’ll learn why Doug Hicks feels this way during this week’s Woodsmith Woodworking Seminar Podcast. During this podcast, you’ll get some tips for buying a band saw and blades. Plus, you’ll learn how to properly set up a band saw and a few techniques you can perform with this versatile machine.
If you’re interested in picking up a downloadable copy of the seminar guide (in case you want to follow along during the podcast), be sure to check out the Woodsmith Podcast Store. Also this week at the store, you’ll find a link to some good deals on a few band saw upgrades that Doug mentioned during his seminar. And as always, all of the great information provided during the seminars comes right from the pages of Woodsmith magazine. If you like what you see in the podcasts, click here for a free preview issue of the magazine.
Cooperstown Lost???
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving OffIf you are wondering what the MASW Joinery II Hall of Fame is, I would direct you to the placard located in the Hall of Fame display. That sign on the Joinery II Hall of Fame provides the following description:
Each year in the Joinery II class, students are paired up and given a special daily challenge. These joints are the results of the BEST of those joints. From year to year each group of two students are given identical joints to those that were cut the year before. The staff of MASW then decides whose joints are better. The best cut joints are signed by each student and then displayed here at the JOINERY II HALL OF FAME.
A little over a year ago I reached for the brass ring, grabbed a firm hold, and then used that as means of swinging through the air and kicking in the gate of the MASW Joinery II Hall of Fame. I stopped short of buying Hall of Fame business cards or putting it on my résumé, but having my hand cut bridled miter joint in the MASW Joinery II Hall of Fame is something I am quite proud of.
(How cool that my Hall of Fame Joint resides just inches away from a hollow vessel turned, gilded, and finished by my "TV Mentor" David Marks with his signature Patina.)It should also be noted that my being in the Hall of Fame became yet another way for my friend Marc Adams to mess with me. For example, back in April when I attended a class during the opening week of the school year, I saw that Marc had decided to direct special attention to my presence in the Hall of Fame. However, the photo below points out what Marc so sadly lamented to me at that time. “Oh wow, Jeff, look at that. There is that nice sign pointing out the fact that you are in the Hall of Fame, but not only does that sign block your name/signature on the joint you cut, but the bottom of the sign got cut off so that almost no one will recognize your name. No one will ever know you are in the Hall of Fame, Mr. Skiver. Gee, that has to be a real bummer to an attention-loving guy like you.”
(Marc seemed to not hear me when I reminded him that he had the keys to the Hall of Fame display and could just move the sign.)
A quick note to Susie, Don, Zane, Doug, Jeff, and anyone else that Marc asks to vote on this year's Joinery II Hall of Fame entries. If you make sure my joint survives this year's challenger, then I will personally provide you with Ice Cream during lunchtime of all of the classes I attend next year.
Chris Hedges, Furnituremaker
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com 
At the AWFS Fair in July, I had the wonderful opportunity to get a close look at some extraordinary woodworking exhibits by some very talented students. AWFS sponsors the “Fresh Wood” competition that spotlights outstanding student works being produced at some of the best high school and post-secondary woodworking programs in North America.
I had a chance to chat with one of the exhibitors, Chris Hedges. His furniture project (a high-boy/secretary) was getting a lot of attention. And it should have. Chris won three awards with his project: First Place in the Reproduction category, the People’s Choice award, and Best of Show.
He’s 32 years old originally from the Circleville, Ohio area. He says he’s happily married and has a 3 year old daughter. When not making furniture and spending time with his family, Chris enjoys trap shooting and golfing. Chris says, “Although my wife and I lived in Athens, Ohio for 12 years before relocating to Knoxville, Tennessee. I earned a Masters from Ohio University (I taught sociology for four years after graduating) and then spent two years at University of Rio Grande in the Fine Woodworking program.”
When I asked him how he got started in woodworking, here’s what he said: “I really had no experience with woodworking as a child, other than nailing end grain to make ‘bookshelves’ for my dad. Most of the training I have before starting Rio’s program was theoretical — meaning I read as many books as I could. Although I could take apart a table saw in my head, I didn’t actually touch one until I started at Rio.”
As for the secretary Chris built, as a second year student he was encouraged to build something that was both technically and academically challenging. Having seen a number of similiar secretaries in the DuPont collection at Winterthur, Chris was highly intriqued by their swiss army knife-like nature and thought that building the secretary would truly challenge his acquired skills. “While plans were provided, I felt it would be to my benefit to stray as far from those plans as possible in an effort to distinguish myself from the rest of the pack,” Chris said. 
All in all, the research and production process took nine months, including the creation of scale drawings from photographs, designing the upper case, getting materials, then building the project. Chris used curly quartersawn cherry (from Irion Lumber Company) as the primary wood and madrone burl for the veneer from Certainly Wood. All secondary wood is poplar.
All wood was dimensioned to within 1/32″ of the final dimension with power tools and finished up with hand tools. As for joinery, all dovetails were cut by hand. Mortise and tenons and sliding dovetails were cut using power tools. While most of the work was done at school, a lot of the hand work was done at home, including dovetails, carvings, and turnings. “At the time that I built the desk, all I had at home was a lathe and a bunch of handtools,” Chris stated.
I think Chris has an excellent future as a woodworker based on what I saw. His craftsmanship is excellent and his attention to detail is impeccable.
Episode 141 - Tommy's Favorite Cause
09/05/2008, 09:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!303 Thumbnail Table Edge Bit - the video
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastIt's the beginning of a brand new month and that can mean only one thing!!! IT'S TIME FOR ROUTER BIT OF THE MONTH!
This month we have Whiteside's Thumbnail Table Edge Bit. An elongated round over bit that gives an unique profile that a regular round over bit only wishes it could touch.
Not today's lucky winner, but you want to get your own Thumbnail Table Edge Bit? Click here to visit Woodcraft.com and order yours today.
Don't forget!! Hendrik is back in September so get your questions in for our open Q&A session.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to my website at 231 354-2338.
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
315 Router Bit of the Month - Whiteside's 1/2" Round Nose Core Box Bit
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastHey everyone it's the beginning of a brand new month and that means it's time for Router Bit of the Month!!
For the entire month of October Woodcraft is featuring Whiteside's 1/2" diameter Round Nose Core Box Bit. A great grooving/veining profile for projects such as fluting, sign making, etc.
If you're not today's lucky winner of this great bit you can still take advantage of the sale price and add one to your collection just click here Woodcraft.com.
Also as mentioned in the show, I use the 1/4" version with my SignPro Kit from Milescraft.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag, have a comment, question or suggestion, drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to the website. Or...leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.
Listen to today's show by clicking on the player below
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
Cabinet base design...
00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
I'm picking up where I left off on the beech cabinet I began a few weeks ago. The cabinet itself is fairly complete except for three dovetailed drawers. I will build the drawers only after having decided on the type of wood to use for the cabinet base. The reason I am doing this is to bring some of the color from the cabinet base up to the cabinet itself. The very first step in this process is to select the type and color of wood to use for the base. I have the option of either making the base of the same wood (European beech) as the cabinet itself, or selecting a contrasting wood instead. If contrasting, how much variation in the color and grain pattern also.I've been mulling over this for a few days now as I complete some smaller items in my studio. It is not a simple decision as it can affect the complete aesthetics of the piece. I need to consider if the eyes are going to be drawn away from the upper cabinet and how much so. I also need to design the cabinet and base to be in harmony with each other. I have the actual design in mind, the stumbling block now is the color and which wood to use for the base.
In the photo, I have a fairly large plank of mahogany I have kept for quite a while now. The plank is rift-sawn and has ribbons of color in it, although subtle. Using this wood would provide the base with a reddish-brown color once the patina of the wood has developed completely. This is something that should always be considered when selecting woods for a piece of furniture. after a number of months or years, what color will the wood finally attain. It is important when using two colors or tones of wood, as the initial contrast might either become subdued or more pronounced over time.
This is one option I have, to use this plank for the base components. I should decide in the next few days however...
Diamond Maple Wood Ring
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Rings by Simply Wood RingsThe ring shown is a Burley Maple wood ring with a real diamond set into it.
I have learned that the wood which is chosen carries more than just its physical traits but more than that the wood carries deeper spiritual meaning.
Your one of a kind wooden ring will give you the warmth of knowing that the true value of a fine piece of handcrafted jewelry is knowing how much meaning it has.
See more at : http://www.simplywoodrings.com
Kingwood Pencil
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub
The second and third pens I've turned. On the left is a "learning experience". It started out as ebony, but I had such trouble turning it I ended up with a huge blowout. I repaired it by cutting off the blown out part and gluing a block of padauk onto the barrel.
It worked OK but I had real issues with the CA glue finish. On the padauk it went wonderfully. On this ebony/padauk pen it bunched and blobbed and did things that didn't happen to me the first time.
Sigh.
For the kingwood pencil, however, I changed my finish. Instead of the CA glue, I used 10 coats of shellac. A 1 lb cut applied to the spinning blanks with an old cotton sock gave an amazing finish. No ridges, no bumps, no blobs, nothing but smooth shine.
The hardware kit is a click pencil in black enamel. I'm curious about the durability of the black finish. I love how it looks right now, so I'm hoping it wears well.We'll see.
I just picked up some 1/4" (7mm nearly) brass tubes from Hobby Lobby. Two 12" tubes for $3.47. I also picked up some other goodies I'll talk about later.
The tubes are for me to make my own barrels for some existing mechanical pencils I have. Classic Pentel drafting pencils, and some inexpensive all plastic pencils. I'd also like to make replacements for the housings of some of my favorite gel pens. I haven't decided how to do that yet, so stay tuned!
279 Wayne's Hand Plane Hunting Kit - Revisited
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastLast year a longtime listener and LumberJock buddy, Wayne C. sent in a great idea for all of us vintage tool hunters. Wayne's Hand Plane Hunting Kit is a great jig of sorts, to take with you on your next trip to the flea market, antique store, garage sale or wherever you find vintage tools.
Considering that the flea market season is full on in my neck of the woods I thought this was a great time to revisit this topic.
To get your copy of the "Stanley Little Big Book" head over to Lee Valley.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to my website at www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or call our Skype Voicemail at 231 354-2338.
If you have the time, please take the new listener survey.
Listen to today's show by clicking on the player below
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
He's Back....
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Philsville
Hi Folks
Westonbirt is over - and what a great event it was too!
Another day or two and I should have recovered (mostly) after a hectic but very enjoyable five days. A highlight for me was the "communal living" aspect - most of the exhibitors camped on-site and our host, Mike Hancock, was kind enough to put on a chef to cater for us. Eating, working and drinking (oh, the drinking!) together made for a unique and very enjoyable experience. It's kind of bizarre to be sat under the stars chatting away with an international selection of woodworking superstars!
The standard of work at the show was very, very high and there was a huge variety of wood related disciplines on show. I'll post some more pictures as the week goes by (and I catch up on some sleep - you forget how good it is to sleep in a bed) And also recount the "International Football Match" that took place on the Saturday night ;)
So - the first picture. Many thanks must go to my "glamorous assistant" Mike Riley, who was kind enough to join me at the show. Couldn't have done it without you ;)
Cheers
Philly
New Shoulder Plane
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Philsville
Hi Folks
Right - I promised some pictures.
This is the prototype of my shoulder plane design. It's made from Rosewood and brass, with the sole fixed to the body with a sliding dovetail. In use the plane is very comfortable and has a good weight to it - I'm very pleased!
I am about to make two more, one 3/4 inch wide in African Blackwood , the other 1 1/4 wide in Pau Rosa. They should be ready by the end of the week, and I hope to take them to Kentucky with me to get some feedback on the design.
Back to the workshop......
Philly
302 Building A Shooting Board Pt. 2
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastThis is Pt. 2 of the Shooting Board Construction video. Today's episode covers the construction of an auxillary fence for 45 degree cuts and then a very basic lesson on shooting.
This type of "simplified" design is easy to build, so if you haven't done it yet give it a shot!
Don't forget!! Hendrik is back in September so get your questions in for our open Q&A session.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to the website www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
288 Whiteside's 1/2" Straight Cutting Bit
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastIt's the beginning of a brand new month and I'm fully back from the "vacation". So let's get everything started the right way by beginning with Router Bit of the Month!!!
And this month we have something a little extra special. Whiteside's 1/2" Straight Cutting Bit is what I consider to be an essential router bit profile, this is one that should be in everyone's collection no matter what kind of woodworking you do.
And considering that I happen to already own one of these, because like I said...this is an essential profile...rather than keeping another one for myself why not share it with a second lucky winner??
So that's what we're doing, now there's double your chances to win this month. If you weren't one of our two lucky winners this week that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of the great discounted price at Woodcraft all month long, just click here to buy yours...Whiteside 1/2" Diameter Straight Cutting Bit.
WIN AN iPOD TOUCH!! If you have the time, please take the new listener survey, and when you do you'll be entered to win an iPod Touch.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to my website at www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or call our Skype Voicemail at 231 354-2338.
Listen to today's show by clicking on the player below
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
316 Preferred Sandpaper for Lapping Handplanes
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastListener Doug wrote in about using Aluminum Oxide sandpaper vs Wet/dry for lapping hand plane soles. Doug had some concerns about the fact that he couldn't find Wet/dry in coarser grits than 400 and was worried that using an AO with water would ruin the sandpaper.
My answer for Doug was...
If you'd like to enter for free schwag, have a comment, question or suggestion, drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to the website. Or...leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.
Listen to today's show by clicking on the player below
To download directly to your computer Right Click on direct download, choose "Save Target as"
One file to rule them all - and in the Ebony dust bind them.
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner
Over the last 8 days, I have fit the front buns and rear infills of 7 coffin smoothers. Two XSNo.4ss's, three No.4ss's and two A5ss's. Six of these planes have Ebony infills. Needless to say - my hands are disturbingly filthy. The fitting process goes something like this;
1). Waste out the bulk of the infill using saws (thanks again Mike!).
The above shoulder cut that defines the overstuffing still feels “dangerous” - even after 100+ times.
2). With the bulk removed - I turn to files, rasps and chisels to further refine the shape.
3). Once the footprint is close - I add in my 1/2" wide, by 3-3/4" long shoulder rebate plane to get the fit of the shoulder to mate perfectly with the sidewall. There is still some refining of the footprint involved - but at this stage it is a bit of a dance between fitting the footprint and the height of the shoulders of the overstuffing.
The above photo is one of many tests of the fit between the overstuffing and the sidewalls. The thing that makes coffin shaped planes a bit tricky is there is very little wiggle room with regards to the fit. On a parallel sided plane, the infill can be slid in from either end. With a coffin plane on the other hand - it needs to drop down from the top.
Take an A5. The handle is already shaped, the bed angle is established, the slot for the adjuster is cut and the section of wood that connects the top of the handle to the bed is already defined. There is really not much of an allowance to move the infill forward or back before any of these aspects will be fatally compromised. Anyway - it requires all of my wits being present to do this task.
Back on topic. Until now - the rasp and file stage took the longest. I was typically using about 6 different files and rasps for this stage, but it was never quite perfect. One of the issues was finding a tool that would remove material quickly, but do so in a very clean manner. Generally - this is not done with rasps. I love rasps - but the cutting action leaves deep V shaped grooves as opposed to a file which leaves a more level surface. Rasps are great for stock removal - but it is sometimes difficult to accurately gauge the depth of the bottom of the V shaped cut. When fitting infills +/- .003" can be the difference between the perfect fit and disaster. So I turned to files because the surface was more level. The trouble with files - they are much slower and tend to clog up much more quickly - especially when used on exotic woods.
Enter this file made by Toshio Fukazawa.
This was unlike anything I had seen before. The teeth one side were completely unfamiliar. They were not like a rasp or a file... but rather a bit of a blend of the two. They had peaks on them that was rasp like - but they were still flat-ish like a file.
The other side was a little more familiar - like a fairly aggressive single cut file. Another nice feature was both edges were safe - and very well done.
I have had this file for several months now, and when I got it home (it was a gift from a very good friend), there was a rear infill and front bun for a No.4 to fit. I decided to quickly try the unhandled file - just to see what it would do. I was blown away. The toothed side removed wood so fast - I could hardly believe it - but what really got me, was how smooth the surface was. I tried another pass - just to make sure. Same thing - rapid stock removal with a super clean surface. I could hardly contain my excitement. I took of my jacket and kept going. What would have taken 6 rasps and files I was doing with a single tool at twice the speed. Once it was shaped, I flipped over the file and tried the other side. This side was very different. It too cut very quickly, but left an almost polished surface. There was absolutely no clean up after this side. I had both infills fit in record time.
Back to these 7 coffin smoothers. All 7 of them were fit using this single file in conjunction with my Wenzloff saw and small shoulder plane. This process has become much quicker, more accurate and consistent - thanks to this last missing tool being added. The only thing left is to find out where to get a few more of them.
The Mini Pencil Project
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub
I've begun creating "mini" pencils. 4 1/4" (including eraser) it is quite a bit smaller than the original PaperMate Write Bros pencil.
The mechanical pencil was disassembled and the barrel tossed. Using a very sharp bench chisel and just hand pressure I cut the mechanism down to 2 7/8". This also required shortening the leads by approx 1/4".The barrel is made from purpleheart. I drilled a 1/4" hole through it and turned it on a standard pen turning mandrel. (1/4" hole fits the mandrels made to be used with 7mm brass tubes.) The barrel is 2 5/8" long.
The mechanism from most click-type mechanical pencils requires a small lip at the tip end of the barrel. I created that lip by gluing a tiny piece of 1/4" brass tubing into the tip. It is around 1/8" long, the longest I could make it and still have the threads of the mechanism protrude enough to catch the plastic tip from the original pencil.
The close up shows the piece of tubing used. Note that I used 1/4" tube NOT the standard 7mm tubing. 7mm tubing isn't narrow enough to stop the mechanism.
The finish on this one is just some CA glue slapped on with a small plastic baggie wrapped around my finger. No effort at properly finishing this pencil was made because I was in a hurry.
So no comments on the poor finish, OK?
The Write Bros pencils make perfect practice parts for experimentation because they are inexpensive and easily modified. They are not terribly durable since they're all plastic, but are still useful. And at approx 30c a piece, if one breaks, or I screw it up, I'm not going to cry.
The one pictured here was given to my 5 year old daughter. She loves it and has been using it heavily since I gave it to her. So far it's holding up well.
A Peek at the Possibilities
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking DungeonTaking my first step into segementation with smaller pieces, I cut up some maple that I had already planed down to 1/8". I laminated these little pieces with an accent color and turned a sample.
This is what I've got:
This shows me that conceptually I'm on track. Now I need to work on putting together a full sized blank so I can complete a pen and see how it looks.
Each piece of maple is only 1/8" thick. To show the scale, I'm including this picture that has my sample next to a dime. The length of the sample if just over 1 inch. The diameter of the sample is just about 3/8". The final diameter of a slimline pen would be a little bit smaller than this.
Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll have some time to work on putting that full sized blank together.
Drill Press Table Upgrade
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comYou can sharpen your woodworking skills with helpful tips and techniques from the editors of Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines. Get a FREE tip sent to your email address each week! Go to WoodworkingTips.com and sign up today.
Here’s last week’s tip from ShopNotes online editor Phil Huber:
I wanted to add an auxiliary table and fence to my drill press. But I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. So I built the simple drill press table and fence with a replaceable insert you see in the photo above. The fence is adjustable and has a sliding stop.
Table
The table is two layers of ¾″ plywood that are glued together. A dado on the top side at each end holds T-tracks for attaching the fence. Two bottom-mounted T-tracks attach the table to the drill press, as you can see in detail ‘b’ and the photo at right.
Fence
The fence is nothing more than a length of aluminum angle. A slotted hole at each end accepts a flange bolt from the table so you can quickly mount and adjust the fence to meet almost any drilling challenge.
Stop Block
To help position and hold the workpiece, I added a stop block to the fence. It’s simply a block of wood attached to an aluminum bracket. A knob and T-nut, are used for adjusting the block and securing it in position on the fence (detail ‘a’).
Good Woodworking,
Phil Huber
Online Editor, ShopNotes
Justin DiPalma at the Wheaton Arts Craft Fair
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology ProductionsSo I met Justin DiPalma for the first time face to face in May 2008 in my kitchen. Our first introduction was through the internet and we decided to drive up to T-Chisel's shop in Boston for a woodworker's weekend together. A good friendship evolved. We talked woodworking and the direction of woodworking, his personal preferences to woodworking, dream pieces to build and then he mentioned a juried show he applied to. Justin hadn't heard if he'd been accepted yet.
THEN.............at the 12 hour, the acceptance letter came. The BIG Hustle was on.
Under real tight time constraints, Justin met every objective including the completion of one of his dream pieces.......his interpretation of a Delaware Valley Lowboy.
After observing Justin work in Boston and seeing his passion for the craft, I had to see him in his first Craft Show.
Here's to Justin DiPalma.....stepp'in up a level.
Enjoy!!!!!
Episode 145 - Glue and Let Dry: Part One
10/08/2008, 09:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!WOOD Magazine Featured Project
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology ProductionsThe cradle you see on the cover of the September 2007 issue of WOOD Magazine is my winning design from WOOD Magazine's  Build-a-Gift Contest.
Kevin Boyle and the editors at WOOD did a fabulous job. The magazine write-up is excellent, complete with full scale templates. A slide show produced by the editors is also availble for viewing, at the WOOD web-site.
The video we've produced here, goes through the design progression that lead to being the featurer project. As you continue to build, you will find you have designs at the ready.
Enjoy and please share in my excitement.
Neil