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ICFF Hans Wegner and Knud Erik Hansen
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology ProductionsJanuary 26th 2007...... the Furniture Industry lost one of its Furniture Design Masters, Hans Wegner.
I had the opportunity to talk of Hans Wegner with Erik Hansen of Carl Hansen & Son a manufacturer of Hans Wegner's Designs.
Enjoy this interview and look further in thoughts of "Danish Modern", investigate the ethos of the Scandinavian woodworker. There is do much to draw from.
An alternative to traditional wedding rings
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wooden Rings from Touch Wood RingsShe wrote "We love our rings... Everyone we've shown is very impressed as well. Not only by the beauty, but also by the idea of a wooden ring instead of metal. We'll keep in touch and send pictures of the wedding! My expectations have far been exceeded!
Thank you both so much!"
And you are both so welcome Brenda. It's been our pleasure!
The Pecking Order
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking blog Woodworking Magazine
So today I get a copy of the WoodWorker's
Book Club bulletin and it lists the "Top 50 Member Favorites." I eagerly flipped
through to see if my book on workbenches made the list.
It did. It was No. 30.
I was quite pleased by this bit of news. It was good to be on the same list as Taunton's
"Complete Illustrated Guides" (at No. 1), Kerry Pierce's "Pleasant
Hill Shaker Furniture" (No. 2) and Jim Tolpin's "Measure
Twice, Cut Once" (No. 3, and one of my favorite woodworking books).
But my moment of glee was quickly flung into the dirty litterbox when I saw what aced
me out at No 28: "Black & Decker's 24 Weekend Projects for Pets."
That put my tail between my legs. Time to go home and start writing that birdhouse
book I've had on the back burner.
— Christopher Schwarz
Episode 78 - Bombe Secretary - Prospect Door
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Tool Shopping
08/21/2008, 04:09 | A Woodworking Odyssey
Today I went on a bit of a tool shopping spree at Lee Valley and Rockler. The initial motivation was to replace a pair of Crash Scissors I misplaced at Pennsic.Of course a trip to the tool shop is never safe, even if just on the computer. I ended up finding a list of clamps I had jotted down a few months ago after I read Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings, so I got those and (oh yes) some hones I've been intending to get since Beauty is using dull knives in the kitchen and I'm carrying a dull knife in my pocket. For good measure I got a dust hood to install on the Radial Arm Saw. So here's the complete list.
From Rockler:
- Tabletop Dust Fitting
- 2 10" Rockler Brand Wooden Hand Screws (at $4.99 each!)
- Sportsman's Hone
- Lee Valley Ceramic Honing Kit
- 2 8" Jorgensen Hand Screws
- 2 12" Jorgensen Hand Screws
- 2 3" C-clamps
- 2 4" C-clamps
- 3 Pairs of Crash Scissors
Photo courtesy of Lee Valley.
Some thoughts on dovetails - part I
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner
For the last several weekends, I have been working on our kitchen drawers. I have just crossed a major milestone - there are more drawers completed than remain (only by 1... but it still feels great!). So I have had “dovetails” floating around in my head quite a bit lately.
There was in interesting thread about dovetails in one of the forums a week or so ago. The thread was titled “Skinny pins in hand cut dovetails”. After reading most of the thread - I started thinking on my own dovetail evolution - and the whys and how's of it. I have also had a bit of an epiphany moment sparked by that thread, and it has to do with the relationship between process and efficiency. I am fully aware that I may to step on a few toes with this one - and I am fine with that.
My goal with woodworking and planemaking is to become extremely efficient while continuing to improve my accuracy... and in that order. I make my living in the woodworking field - I have to be efficient. So everything I do is motivated by using the fastest method even if it means a slow initial learning curve - complete with bumps and errors. Sharpening is a perfect example. I made a very conscious decision to learn to freehand sharpen because once you know how - it IS the fastest way to sharpen. Sure, it made for a lot of frustrating sharpening sessions and the dizzying parade of sharpening jigs were quite tempting - but I can honestly say I am glad I stuck to my guns and learned to do it freehand. I am now fast at it, and don't hesitate to stop work to restore an edge. I will write more on freehand sharpening in another post.
Back to dovetails & efficiency. I believe that the dovetail joint is a functional mechanical joint that can be extremely beautiful if well executed. There are a lot of times when dovetails are used and they are not seen - and in these instances how it looks is less important (though they still need to be tight fitting and designed for mechanical strength). The drawer is usually to blame for all the discussion about dovetails - skinny pins vs fat pins, machine cut vs hand cut, spacing, angles, pin lengths etc. This is because these dovetails can be seen, and rightly or wrongly, have come to symbolize the quality of the piece they live in.
I decided that I would hand cut my dovetails for several reasons (in no particular order). I like the somewhat random and irregular look of handcut dovetails - they tell me that a person spent time making this - and I like that. I like skinny pins - especially in contrasting woods - they make everything look lighter and more delicate. I like irregular spacing. I tend to put narrower tails on the outside edges and gradually increase them as they get closer to the center. It means I don't need to do as much math and is really quite fast to lay out. Here is an example;

The tails on the top and bottom are 3/4", 1/16" pin, 1" tail, 1/16" pin, 1-1/4" pin. It makes for a somewhat rounding effect.
Once I made the decision to hand cut my dovetails it meant I needed to be as fast and efficient as I could be. To me, this means the goal is to be able to fit the dovetails off the saw - no paring. My friend Karen was over a few weeks ago and we were talking about this as we stood in a sea of kitchen drawer parts. I commented that I was going to cut to the line and not intentionally cut inside and then pare to the line. If I overcut and there was a gap - so be it. I would not scrap the drawer but live with it. I explained that I felt this was part of my learning process and working towards maximum efficiency. She gave me an affirming nod and agreed. As we continued to talk we realized that there are many woodworking schools out there that teach to cut well inside the line and to pare to get the right fit. Looking at that now - it seems a little off - it is teaching a process where the outcome is consistently a 10 hour dovetailed drawer! It may be beautiful and perfect - but the process strikes me as questionable - not to mention it is unrealistic to expect a client to pay for a drawer that took 10 hours to make. I would much rather endure the pain, suffering, and disappointment of a few gaps here and there knowing that I am slowly, over time, getting closer to dovetails that fit right off the saw (I am aware that I am building drawers for my own use and not for a client - so I do have the luxury of “learning” through my work). So with that in mind - here are a few examples of dovetails I have produced spanning my entire woodworking life.

This was the first furniture project I made with a drawer. The front is cherry and the sides are pine. Drat... it is a bit out of focus:)

These are the drawers on my left handed, shaker inspired bench. There are 10 drawers in all. The sides are 5/8" basswood and the fronts are 3/4" mildly curly soft maple. They are still a little clunky - but the spacing was starting to feel right on these.

This is a drawer in a table I built for my sister and her husband as a wedding gift. Skinny pins have arrived and are here to stay! 1/2" maple sides, 3/4" walnut front. Note the African Blackwood pull... I shaped them by hand... no lathe:(
Which brings us to the most recent dovetail project - the kitchen drawers. I have just finished 5 more kitchen drawers - here is a shot of the stack.

There was a magical moment that happened while building these 5 drawers - I did actually cut a set of dovetails that fit right off the saw. It is pictured below.

There are a few wee gaps - but after they were glued and planed flush, they were gone. And after this set - there was another set of 1/2 blinds and two sets of through dovetails that fit off the saw. This was most encouraging and confirmed to me that this longer road was the right road to take.
And hey... I have 7 more drawers to practice on!
Hexagonal Portable Tool Tote
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.com
I don’t know about you, but when I have to do some work around the house or somewhere away from the shop, I usually use a five-gallon bucket with a Bucket Boss to transport my tools. I’ve been using that for years and it has worked fairly well. It’s great for hauling my portable drill, screwdrivers, hammers, chisels, etc.
Over on WoodNet, Bob Strawn (aka “CedarSlayer”) is showing off his portable “roll-up” tool tote. He even went so far as to use a home-brew finish on it. 
Here’s what Bob said about the construction of the tote:
All the details are there, and it is a good first work. It gives you a place for tools and most of the materials are inexpensive. The leather strap can be a bit more expensive. I made mine out of pine, brass screws, brass tacks, epoxy, screw posts and horse butt. The horse butt was the most expensive, but then I can strop with the straps. I would advise going to a saddle shop and getting vegetable tan leather for the inner fittings, so that you don’t have too many salts in the leather eating your tools. Getting straps from them or using belts from a resale shop would do well.
As far as the one I made goes, The Hex end on mine has 4″ long sides. The boards are 24″ long and 1/2 thick. The end peices are a touch thicker. The inside straps are 1″ wide, the outside straps are 2″ To avoid near impossible clamping issues, I taped the whole thing together and marked boards and ends. I predrilled the three fixed boards, screw holes, to the end pieces. I used masking tape to avoid a mess with the epoxy, and used a slower set epoxy and brass screws to hold the sides together during gluing.
I wanted a rougher finish than the mirror smooth one that came out of my thickness planer, so I sanded at an angle across the grain with 80 grit, to give the look and feel I wanted. Sort of an old sawmill look. This way dings and scratches add character instead of ruining the appearance.
Click here to read more and see more photos of this handy tool tote.
Episode 52 - Ask the Masters 06
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Hi-Yo Quicksilver!
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comIt seems like part of being a woodworker is repairing old furniture, whether it’s your own or someone else’s. You’re probably already aware that working on old pieces like that can present some health concerns (lead paint exposure, for example). As it turns out, there are some other things you should be concerned about when repairing or even moving some antiques.
Discovery News is citing some info from the CDC (Centers for Disease Control) about the hazards of heavy metals in antiques. Old mirrors may have been backed with mercury and tin. And clock pendulums or lamp bases may contain mercury. You know…it’s the stuff you used to play with when you were a kid. It’s since been found to be a health hazard.
I remember a few years ago, my wife and I found an old bottle of mercury that had belonged to my mother-in-law, a nurse. Being the responsible citizen, I took it to our local township volunteer fire department/police station. I was essentially told to “get it out of here…we’re not responsible if something happens…you’re on your own.” Wow! I explained that I had several children in the home and I didn’t want it in my house. It didn’t matter. They insisted I remove it from their premises immediately. So, I took it home. I ended up having to call the county hazardous materials department. They sent a guy out. Turns out he was an old classmate of mine in high school. He laughed when I told him what my local fire department told me, but he donned heavy rubber gloves, removed the bottle from the house, wrapped it very carefully, and stored it in a well-insulated, shock-protected styrofoam cooler.
Then there was the local elementary school that had to shut down for a day when a child dropped a mercury thermometer on the front steps while returning from an outdoor science class. You would have thought there had been a bomb blast with all the emergency vehicles and personnel.
So, the next time you need to move Aunt Sue’s antique clock, exercise caution.
My Ancient Thor Sabre Saw
09/07/2008, 15:50 | A Woodworking Odyssey_____________________________________
Related but somewhat off topic: I searched for commentary on Thor tools this morning. There doesn't seem to be much out there, but I did discover that the tool manufacturer played a role in changing the way publishing works. The Supreme court ruled against Thor Power Tool in a case brought by the IRS, and inventory accounting was changed forever.
If you're interested in knowing more, there's a good article about how and why at the Science Fiction and Fantasy Writers of America Web site.
Episode 27 - Episode 27 - Tuning a Plane
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Prototype 18th c style firming chisels shipping
07/03/2008, 17:29 | Arts & Mysteries with Adam Cherubini - Blog
I've been working on making chisels for close to 9 months now. I've finally made up a number of sets for review. As comments come back, I'll make some final tweaks. If the reviewers simply don't care for these, this product will likely die on the vine. But if everything works out as I expect, I should be able to offer 18th c style firming chisels with features and sizes that make sense for the work we do. These won't be clones of other chisels on the market. They are a new look at what chisels are for, what features they should have, what matters and what doesn't. My hope is that they offer serious woodworkers a new perspective on the oldest woodworking tool.
Adam
Hand Planes with Jim Dillon - Saturday, August 23 at Highland Woodworking
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Highland Woodworking Blog
Saturday Mornings at Highland complement our woodworking class & seminar offerings. Join us at our store in Virginia-Highlands on Saturday mornings at 10am EST for FREE, live demonstrations featuring a wide variety of woodworking skills, tools & techniques. These 1 to 1-1/2 hour-long demonstrations feature our knowledgeable staff and instructors, local clubs & guilds, guest authors, and others. Upcoming events include woodturning, woodcarving, care & use of hand tools, joinery, book signings, an introduction to woodworking design software, and much, much more.
Saturday, August 23, at 10:00amShy of a hammer, a hand plane is one of the most basic tools found on a woodworkers bench. Bench planes, block planes and specialty planes are used for joinery, stock dimensioning, shaping and finishing. Join instructor Jim Dillon for a free demonstration on hand plane use and maintenance. You'll learn practical ways to true the soles, customize the handles and improve the bodies. Watch Jim show the proper and safe ways to utilize hand planes for various tasks. Feel free to bring along your own hand plane that you obtained from that yard sale or flea market and get Jim's advice on how best to turn your paper weight into a useful new item for your tool box.
All demonstrations take place in Highland Woodworking's retail store in Atlanta, Georgia and begin at 10:00am EST.
Breaking Up with Purpleheart
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving OffI was trying to do some fancy hand joinery in a piece of purpleheart and it just wasn’t meant to be. (Let’s face it…given its hardness, purpleheart can sometimes be as easy to work as glass).
Somehow during the process of struggling with the lavender wood it took me back years to when I was still dating.
My brain knew that what I was trying to do was doomed. Inside I knew the joint I was trying to cut was just not meant to be. However, my emotions really wanted it. I wanted that chisel to create the perfect tiny Dovetail on that rock hard, ¾ inch thick plank. And it was just like one of those doomed relationships from years ago I couldn’t’ get to work, regardless of how badly I wanted it.
So I reverted to something else from my past…I started blaming everything else for the circumstances I couldn’t change. I knew my chisels were razor sharp, but I yelled at them anyway. I know that I know how to cut with my dovetail saw, yet I still chose to curse my hand. My workbench held the board exactly where I wanted it to be, but after failure occurred I still wondered what would have happened if I had positioned the board differently.
Ultimately, I have to walk away knowing that I sincerely tried to do it, but I just couldn’t make it work. Rob Cosman probably could have done it, but this wasn’t about him. Frank Klausz might have achieved perfection, but it wasn’t Frank’s project. Instead, I am left with the knowledge that sometimes it is not enough to have all of the right tools and a heart full of desire. Sometimes, it just isn’t meant to be.
One final dating metaphor…I suppose even in walking away I can hold onto the hope that things might be different. Perhaps in two years I’ll pull that purple plank back out and see if the circumstances are different. We romantic woodworkers always cling to that “what if” hope.
Bench Finishing
08/27/2008, 18:36 | A Woodworking OdysseySean, on the other hand, is a powerhouse for bulk woodworking. You may remember the post I made about his 20 box run. At the time he completed the boxes, these benches were a pile of rough cut lumber in Sean's barn. In less than two months he converted that pile to what we thought was 30 collapsible benches (it turned out to be 29 bench tops and 28 complete benches).
The bulk of the bench parts were sent down to Pennsylvania with Jay on Wednesday, but Sean stopped by our house to deliver most of the bench sides at 11 p.m. Friday, the last possible moment we could have taken them with us. These benches would be outside for the next two weeks, and needed to be finished before being put to use. I promised Sean two things before I left: first, that I would take pictures of the benches after they were finished and assembled; second, that they would be properly stickered for storage during the following year. Implicit in those promises was a third: that the benches would be stained, sealed, and assembled.
So the first week of my vacation, I took a trip to Home Depot looking for staining and sealing supplies. Jay wanted to stain the benches green, so they would be identifiably ours, and after long deliberation, I chose Minwax water-based stain in an Olive tint rather than Hunter Green. Minwax Helmsman spar varnish would be the sealant. This started a two-and-a-half day marathon of staining, sealing, and convincing people to help complete the project.
With 28 total benches being finished for assembly, we recruited everyone willing to wield a brush. We went through a lot of protective gloves during this: probably 15 different people helped out with this project, the most important being Anne, who started staining and coordinating volunteers while I was still finishing the sand table. At one point the gloves we had made us feel like villains in Firefly. "Two-by-two, hands of blue".
The benches were completed by Wednesday. Nicodemus assembled the benches once they were dry and we enjoyed using them for the rest of the two weeks.
DeWalt Recalls Cordless Drills
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comIf you own a DeWalt cordless drill/driver, you may want to check the table below. These models are being recalled because of a potential fire hazard. DeWalt wants you to stop using the drill immediately if it’s included in the list below:
| Model Number | Description | Date Codes |
|---|---|---|
| DC920 | Heavy-Duty XRP™ 1/2” (13mm) 18 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver | 200723 through 200742 |
| DC930 | Heavy-Duty XRP™ 1/2″ (13mm) 14.4 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver | 200625 through 200746 |
| DC935 | Heavy-Duty XRP™ 1/2″ (13mm) 14.4 Volt Cordless Hammerdrill/Drill/Driver | 200627 through 200746 |
| DC936 | Heavy-Duty XRP™ 1/2″ (13mm) 14.4 Volt Cordless Hammerdrill/Drill/Driver | 200635 through 200746 |
| DC940 | Heavy-Duty XRP™ 1/2″ (13mm) 12 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver | 200635 through 200746 |
You can find out all about the recall here on the CPSC web site. You can take your drill to your nearest service center for a free inspection and free repair, if needed. Click here for instructions on DeWalt’s web site.
Episode 39 - Bombe Series - Drawer Bottoms
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Episode 88 - Bombe Secretary - Preparing the Lid
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!No beginning or end (Teak and Silver Wooden Ring)
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Rings by Simply Wood RingsA very popular design with nautical people for many years. I have used teak and birch to add to the nautical idea of the ring.
Teak Wood Ring Teak Wood is hard strong durable yellowish-brown used in shipbuilding. The Teak is incorruptible. It holds its own against all that life throws at it. The silver is sterling silver.
www.simplywoodrings.com
Comment Moderation Turned On
08/27/2008, 18:38 | A Woodworking OdysseyCherry and Oak wood rings symbolic of ancient Irish and British trees
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wooden Rings from Touch Wood RingsLouise and Arran decided to use cherry and oak because both are ancient native trees to Ireland and Britain, and they liked their symbolic meanings of strength and love.
"We were delighted to discover that as well as being very beautiful the rings have a great warm feel to them - unlike the coldness of metal! Many, many thanks Louise & Arran, Ireland"
Arran & I had a wonderful weddding in August - I have attached some pictures from the registry office - where the ring exchange took place and from a stone circle where we performed a handfasting ceremony. The rings are still fantasic and have darkened considerably since we started wearing them, which makes them even more beautiful . All the best and thanks again. Louise and Arran 


Arran having his first pint of Murphys stout as a married man. And with the ring to prove it!
The Customer Corner
01/23/2007, 16:28 | The Wood ShopCheck out this fist entry From Ronald Hesketh ... It's about Time ...

Read this heartwarming story about two Men and a Very Special Clock ! ... >>>>>> Click on "more " >>>>>>>>
Live from Studio B
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving OffI’ve been thinking about nomenclature. I’ve been thinking about what I call the area where I do my woodworking thing (or at least where all of the tools and equipment live when I am busy surfing the internet or playing Wii Fit and complaining about having no time to do any woodworking.)
Some people call those tool filled places their “SHOP.” However, that seems a little too generic for me because I have more than one shop in my life. All of the car stuff happens in my garage, but it is more of a combination garage/bicycle shop. I’ve said before that somewhere in between my Park Double Arm repair stand and Park TS-3 Master Truing Stand are enough tools to make 90% of the bicycle shops in
The non-bicycle part of the garage is pretty well set up for anything I need to do with cars. In the last ten years I have done engine swaps, clutch replacements, Air Locker installations, countless tune-ups, 30 or so brake jobs, 100 oil changes, water pump and radiator replacements, Axle replacements, ring and pinion set-ups, and on and on and on.
Before my wife and I moved to this house, most of the automotive stuff was done at my father-in-law’s shop. Long before I met him he ran a 2000 sq ft body shop behind his house, but he retired and closed his body shop before I ever came on the scene. So in the early days of my marriage, I would commandeer his shop for various automotive projects.
So now to differentiate between his shop, my bike shop, my garage shop, and the area of my plantation where I do welding and metal work, I always refer to my basement area as my WOOD SHOP. I say to Gail, “I’ll be downstairs in the Wood Shop. If the lazy dog should wake up, feel free to convince him to come keep me company.”
I am very happy with the Wood Shop in my basement. However, I will inevitably have to rename that space. Eventually my work will be good enough for me to call my wood shop a “Studio.” It’s a subtle little thing, but it is the key to being a wood artist. Adirondack Chairs are made in Wood Shops by woodworkers. Commissioned furniture projects are done in studios by two types of guys. To the uninitiated, woodshops and studios look a heck of a lot alike. They have identical equipment and tools. The difference between woodshops and studios is the guy doing the work and the deposit slips for his bank account. Today I came up with the official list of criteria required for a woodshop to be called a studio, and here it is:
1) If the woodworker went to art school then it is acceptable to call it a studio. Art School guys are different. A couple of years ago I was a Mechanical Engineer who worked with a bunch of Industrial Designers designing Office Furniture. It was my job to make sure the roll-formed steel and the drawer slides could support the required loads. It was the responsibility of the Industrial Designers to make sure the theme of the company was represented with a passionate design that made one think, “If I have to spend 10 hours a day in a cubicle, this is the work space I want.” Those left handed, beret-wearing guys were studio types.
2) If you are a woodworker who has ever made $1000 profit on a piece then you can call your woodshop a studio. The keyword here is profit. It’s more than selling cherry cabinets for $2000 when you have more than half of that total tied up in materials, overhead, labor, and burden. Woodshops produce items that either generate no income or can sometimes sell for as much as one half of the price of the lumber they use. However, studios are the setting where profitable wooden art projects are created.
Someday my basement woodshop will become my Studio. I am not able to go to art school, so criterion 1 will not happen. However, I have a plan for creating a 4 digit profit on a piece of furniture or a similar woodworking project. I’ll share that plan with you now.
Someday I am going to resaw a walnut plank and find that the bookmatched inner faces form a distinctive picture of Jesus. Then, I will put the resawn slabs on eBay, and send out a press release. Within 24 hours of FoxNews and Headline News doing bits on Jesus in the Walnut, my auction will have bids over $5000. And when the auction ends and the buyer’s PayPal clears, my basement woodshop with the resawing 18” bandsaw will forever be referred to as “My Studio.”
And I’ll get to show pictures to people and say things like, “here is a picture of my Studio. The Unisaw is in the middle, and on the left is my hand crafted maple workbench. If you look closely in the corner you can see my bandsaw where I created my most famous pieces, Jesus in the Walnut, as I was resawing stock one day…”
Sculptor Nicholas Jones Turns Books into Fine Art - An Interview with the Artist
01/01/1970, 01:00 | ephemeraPin the Rattail on the Foamular
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking blog Woodworking Magazine
After three more hours of CAD work last night, I finished up the preliminary drawings
for the next cover project for Woodworking Magazine. We're calling this project
"An American Wall Cabinet." But right now a more apt name would be "An R-5 Wall Cabinet."
This morning I spent about 45 minutes building the face frame, tombstone door and
drawer front of the cabinet using the pink ½"-thick Foamular insulation
board. I taped up the joints with packing tape. Then I printed out the hardware from
the Horton Brasses web site, cut it out (Horton scaled it full-size!) and taped it
in place.
If you ever wonder how woodworking magazines get away with coverlines like "Build
a Bench in a Weekend," this is it. It's our trade secret. We just build it out of
Foamular.
After a dry-fit of all the parts (no tape), I determined that the mediary rail in
the door was too wide. So I shaved off ½" with a ruler and a knife and it looked much
better. Then Senior Editor Glen Huey and I placed the rattail hinges on the stiles
so they would work well and look good.
This short exercise also drove me to plan on adding some stopped chamfers on the stiles
of the face frame when I build it out of walnut. So all in all, it was worth the $10.
If you've never worked with Foamular, it's a cinch to cut with a knife and a ruler.
I used my Tite-Mark gauge to first score the foam's plastic film. Then I followed
up with the knife. To make the curve in the tombstone door, I drew it with a compass.
The pencil lead didn't cut the foam; it made a furrow in the film. Then my knife could
easily follow that furrow to complete the cut.
And what are we going to do with the leftover foam? Easy. I use it for slicing up
plywood with a circular saw. I lay the foam down on the driveway, put the plywood
on top, and set the sawblade to cut through the plywood and slightly into the foam
(and not the concrete). Works every time.
— Christopher Schwarz
Work Sharp Hones Tools Quickly and Easily
00/00/0000, 00:00 | WoodworkingONLINE.comBack in March, the folks from ProTool (the folks that make the Drill Doctor) came into our offices to show us their new Work Sharp system for sharpening woodworking tools. You’ll be hearing it advertised on the Paul Harvey show. They left their WS3000 for us to play with in our shop.
One day not too long ago, I went to use the Work Sharp to hone some chisels for our new public television show, The Woodsmith Shop (more on that later). Well, I couldn’t find all the parts to the Work Sharp, so I resorted to honing the chisels by hand using wet/dry sandpaper. A few weeks later, I asked Steve Johnson, our shop craftsman, about the Work Sharp’s missing parts. He said that they weren’t missing and walked me around the corner of his work area and showed me the box that contained the “missing” parts. Turns out he had the Work Sharp squirreled away to keep it from disappearing. He says he uses it all the time for touching up his chisels. For example, when he’s chopping mortises or cleaning up mortises, all he needs to do is walk over to the Work Sharp, and in just a few seconds he’s got a sharp edge. He thinks it’s a great addition to his shop for keeping an edge on his tools.
Work Sharp has come out with a homeowner/DIY version of their system called the WS2000. It uses the same motor as the WS3000 but doesn’t have the built-in speed reduction and doesn’t come with the finer grits of abrasive that you’d use for honing. It’s meant for grinding a quick edge or, as one homeowner did, ground a sharp edge on his garden shovel.





