The door pattern has been cut and Tommy now goes to work on the corners with a chisel and a router plane. Once the corners are done, Tommy can send the pattern to the glass company.

I have two sons. The oldest is not quite 8. This year he joined the Cub Scouts. I?m no outdoorsman so the camping doesn?t do much for me. But there?s one annual scouting event that?s right up my alley. It combines my love of woodworking and my lifelong interest in cars. It?s the Pinewood Derby.

The Pinewood Derby is the original level playing field. Every kid gets a block of wood, a few nails and four plastic wheels. The rules are simple though typical of our times they run to about half a page. And while the heats are now computer-timed the basics of the race are straightforward. A sloped track and Sir Isaac Newton are as complicated as it gets (ok, throw in some graphite powder).

Making the cars is a father/son project but the bulk of the work is to be performed by the scout. Dylan designed his car. I cut the shape on the band saw and then Dylan sanded it. And sanded it. Painting was a team effort. Turns out that spray paint cans can be difficult for seven year-old fingers to work. But we managed two coats of primer and two of Ferrari red.

A friend mentioned that the secret to speed is to sand and polish the axels (the above-mentioned nails). So we did that too. And we made sure that the wheels didn?t have any rough spots from the manufacturing process. A few decals and it was ready to race.

In Dylan?s age group there were 13 entries. Each car raced 12 times -- four runs on each of the three lanes on the track. And that?s just for one of the five age groups. So it seemed like it would be a long haul. In reality it went quickly and was fun.

In Dylan?s first set of three runs his car won each time. The look on his face was worth a million bucks. In the end, he didn?t win his group. Cars against which he didn?t race were faster. He didn?t seem to mind. Within minutes he and his brother were playing with the car on the floor. Winning is fun but not as fun as playing. Or making a car with your son.

(ARA) – Most people think the first impression of their home is made by the color on the walls or furniture in a room; but in reality, it’s made by what’s under your feet – the flooring. If the carpet is dirty and worn, tiles are chipped, or the wood floor is warping, it’s time for a change.

So what’s holding you back? A lot of people are hesitant to jump into a home improvement project involving flooring because of all the work involved. First you have to remove and dispose of the old material, then invest the time and effort necessary to get the base surface ready for the new material before finally putting it in.

“Do-it-yourselfers are overwhelmed when they learn how much work is involved in redoing a floor. But it doesn’t have to be that way,� says Scott Day of Forbo Flooring. Forbo recently introduced a new product that’s turning a lot of heads in the remodeling industry.

Marmoleum Click is perhaps the easiest flooring surface there is to install. No adhesives or fasteners are necessary. The panels simply lock into place with a tongue and groove system. “If you have an existing resilient floor, no need to remove it. The planks and squares can be installed right on top of the old surface. If you have carpet or tile, you just need to remove and dispose of the old materials and start clicking the Marmoleum tiles together right over the subfloor,� says Day.


Marmoleum Click comes in 18 different colors and is available in two different sizes: panels that are 12 inches wide and 36 inches long, and 12-inch by 12-inch squares.
The panels and squares can be mixed and matched to create a wide variety of patterns and color combinations.

“It’s really cool. You can mix and match colors to create a space that is uniquely your own,� says Day.

In addition to being decorative and easy to install, Marmoleum Click is made from natural materials consisting of flaxseed oil, pine rosin, limestone and jute. It also has anti-static and bactericidal properties, meaning it’s easily kept dirt and dust free, and is resistant to such micro-organisms as Staphylococcus. These qualities make it especially popular in bathrooms and kitchens – and in places young children play.

“Marmoleum Click is the ideal do-it-yourselfer’s surface,� says Scott Day of Forbo. “We’ve received a lot of feedback from customers that it’s the easiest material they’ve ever worked with, and they’ve had a lot of fun with it.�

For design ideas, or to find a retailer near you, log on to www.themarmoleumstore.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Visit A1 Wood Flooring for more on wood flooring and laminate flooring.

Tommy reviews how the doors are coming along as well as his plans for them. With the doors and hardware installed on the secretary, he concentrates on cleaning out the corners then shows how he centered the door overlap. Tommy's getting closer and closer to completion of the project!

A while back I was going nuts. I usually love sanding as part of woodworking, but I was extremely frustrated trying to sand a purpleheart inlay flush with a maple binder. The purpleheart was just so dense it was taking forever!

A post over on Woodnet got someone suggesting getting a card scraper to get that purpleheart flush. I'd been wanting one, but never had a need for it. Until that day.

I bought a set for $20 with 4 different scrapers, and dropped another $20 on a burnishing rod.

After playing with them and learning how to sharpen a card scraper, I discovered something: They make the wood SMOOOOOOOOTH!!!

Not just dense woods, but even pine is given a nice treatment with the scrapers!

I'm not going to give step-by-step instructions on how to sharpen or use a card scraper. There are plenty of sites out there for that. Google it up.

What I will tell you is that this is absolutely something you want to learn. Properly sharpened and used, a card scraper will create a smoother surface than most power tools, and smoother than you can get wood with sandpaper (without burnishing it and hurting the woods ability to absorb stain).

Plus you have much more control over the tool than you do with a thickness or surface planer. You can remove material in a very precise manner, getting just the area you want, and leaving the rest untouched.

The photos attached to this post are of some edge glued purpleheart I'm using to make a coffee grinder using one of the Rockler Coffee Mill mechanisms and the free plans they provide. I am scraping the glue as well as bringing the two pieces into a more perfect alignment. The second photo is of the shavings after just a few passes with a scraper. You want tiny fluffy curly shavings. Not dust. The scraper is more like a micro-planer and cuts instead of scrapes.

Using a card scraper will improve your woodworking and ease up on your use of sandpaper. Give one a shot! You don't have to buy the stuff I did either. Any bit of hardened steel can act as a burnishing rod, and individual cards are around $5.

Try one and see!

A brief recap of the May meeting is on the Bulletin Board. After you log in, Click Bulletin Board on the Members Menu then click on Here's What You Missed (at the last meeting).If you have not Registered, Click Register at the Log In screen and fill out the simple form. That way you can access the Members Only features.

Here's another interview that we got a chance to do at the this years The Woodworking Show in Atlanta, GA.

In this video we interview Mark Sillay. Mark is a member of the Georgia Association of Woodturners. He also teaches at John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, NC.

Mark uses a unique grind on his spindle gouge and shows how he sharpens it. If you've never seen the Jool Tool sharpening system, you're going to be impressed. We have a whole separate interview with the CEO of the Jool Tool in an up coming interview.

After sharpening his spindle gouge, Mark proceeds to cut a very delicate finial out of a piece of 2x4! You gotta see this to believe it.

Enjoy!

Craig Stevens

www.WoodworkersResource.com

P.S. Don't forget to go to our website to sign up for our newsletter and to receive updates on when we release new videos.

www.WoodworkersResource.com

I’ve been playing around with dovetails – in metal this time. Since I’ve been spending lots of time in the workshop I thought I would sneak the odd minute here and there for some fun. I tried a couple of test runs and they turned out well so thought I’d attempt something larger. And here we go – a thumb plane. I’ve just cleaned the dovetails up after peening and it looks pretty good – it’s amazing how they appear from the bruised and bulbous mass of hammered metal.

Now – don’t get excited. I’m not turning into an Infill maker – filing out dovetails is really tedious. But it has been a good exercise. And you can never have too many skills ;)

Tomorrow, Waka and I are visiting a new sawmill. I’m quite excited about this – sounds like they may have some very interesting timber. I’ll report back tomorrow with the facts!

Cheers

Philly

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Tommy and Al sit down to talk shop and discuss plans for a small project building a table. The project will be simple and take under 60 hours to complete. Tommy and Al first review the general design of the table and then discuss the power and hand tools that will be needed. Tommy stresses that it will be a low budget project that will produce a beautiful table.

Playing with inlays. This is powdered copper in walnut with 4 coats of lacquer.

Here is the same 1 1/4" chisel back after about two hours of flattening work.

I tried several ...

Part way though this plane I realized this is the most "traditional" infill plane I have made to date. It was great to return to the roots of British infill planes. This is a 16-1/2" long A1 panel plane - infilled with Brazilian Rosewood, 01 tool steel sides and sole and a bronze lever cap and lever cap screw. This combination of materials is the epitome of British infills.





I was also reminded why Brazilian Rosewood was the infill material of choice - it is one of the finest woods to work with. The front bun on this plane was roughed out in 2003 and I have been waiting to use it ever since. I knew the figure would be good... but this really knocked my socks off!



One of the challenges of having such a great piece of wood for the front bun, is continuing it to the rear infill. The black streaks that run through the rear infill and handle certainly tie it all together.



Coming off the heels of two large jointers - lapping this plane was a real treat. For what it's worth... the lapping music of choice was Ministry & I used 12 sheets of lapping paper.

We have just finished shooting the 'Precision Plane Tuning' DVD, after three days of hard work. This concentrates ...

Today I want to share with you two strange desings.

The first one is a very nice pair of earrings, made of wood beads (they´re beautiful). It seems they belongs to an indian, isn’t it?

The following desing it´s a spiral. I love spirals! I made the wire structure first and then embroider the beads.

See you next craft!

Rather than leave an open gap between the doors, even a small one, it is much preferred to create a mating set of lip and rabbet along the inner edges of the front door panels. This serves to provide a positive closure of the doors and masks the very small reveal between the doors. In this particular case , I create an outside lip or rabbet on the right hand door as this is the first door opened. The method I utilize is to mark the outline of the rabbet, in my case 1/4 in. X 1/4 in. and begin to remove material at the edge of the right hand door. The wood removed is part of the hardwood edging I installed within the door panel edges prior to veneering. The tool I use is a skew rabbet block plane with adjustable fence. This particular plane is based on the Stanley No. 140 plane. I added a wood auxiliary fence to the plane to extend the bearing surface of the plane against the edge of the door panel.

This process went along fairly well without any surprises and afterwards I re-installed the door and began to fit the mating edge to it. This rabbet will mate perfectly with the right hand door edge. Rather than concern myself with a slightly wider left hand door I add a lip of the same wood and grain orientation to the inner edge of the left door instead. This allows me to create two identically sized door panels and since veneer is involved, the complexity of the process is simpler if the door panels are of equal dimensions.

I currently have the left hand door rabbeted edge in the process of glue-up and afterwards I will perform any small trimming to ensure the fit is perfect between the doors. There is a small, slightly greater than 1/32 in. gap between the doors at the moment which will have less of a reveal apparent once the lipped edges are created and installed.

Had a bit of luck today and came across a moulding plane stamped with the "Madox" name. It caught my eye due to the extra length of its stock, being longer than the rest of planes in that pile. It is a hollow plane, size 1, so its pretty narrow. I was pretty excited to inspect it and was most impressed with its sharp construction. And for a plane that is 250 years old (give or take) it is amazing how well preserved it was - guess its small size meant it didn't get used much?

The guitar (codenamed "Weissy") is coming along. I finished thicknessing the top plate tonight and then cut out the recess for the rosette. A pretty hair-raising exercise that went well - a scalpel blade and nail defined the edges (somewhat quieter than a router!!) andI removed the rest using my dinky little L-N router. I'll glue it in tomorrow when my heart slows down......;)

Cheers
Philly

Here I am, this time with handmade jewerly, after a week posting about knitting and crochetting.

I get this beads and I start a very easy necklace. I embroider 12 little beads and 1 bigger bead… until I get the length I wanted.

After that I made the hook.

As you can see I made a hook using wire and modelate it with my pliers (clamps). I made the spiral structure and the hook.

With the banding now cut, it's time to put on the cuff. Tommy outlines how to construct the table foot and cuff then reviews some user submissions.

Tommy demonstrates how the prospect door will fit into the piece. He then shows how he copied the design from a photo to paper and then to the wood block. He makes multiple attempts at cutting the block and laughs about how many mistakes he's made so far. It's going to be a long road.

With the backboard off, Tommy breaks out the scrub plane and starts removing material from the inner case sides. When he's done, he turns the case on its back to attach the transitional piece.

Rock star T-Mac shows off a compass plane on the curves of the bombe cabinet. Also, he demonstrates a shoulder plane with a few tricks to keep the edge clean. Lastly, he cleans the side of the cabinet with a cabinet scrapper.

Tommy hits a "pretty big milestone" when he glues the first drawer together. Knowing how crucial setting the glue is after many long, labor-intensive hours getting the wood ready, he tries not to "freak out." When he attaches all four pieces together and clamps them, he's pleased because the drawer looks square and totally flat. Here's hoping the rest go as well.

It’s safety week on The Woodwhisperer Network.

I covered the vast majority of my safety knowledge last year when I posted about the guy who has to remove a shoe if he wants to count into double digits.

However, I did come up with an important safety thought that I should share:

Differentiate between woodshop tools and toolshed items before someone gets killed and someone ends up in prison. (I know that doesn’t make sense, so I�ll explain.)

It starts with the dog. Our dog Peyton is obsessed with chewing lumber. He’s always grabbing rough sawn cut-offs from the shop and running off to gnaw on them. When he’s out in the back yard, he will jump up and tear the lowest limbs off of the trees. He’s an insane little pruner who leaves jagged limb spurs for any tree appendages he can reach.

Last week my lovely wife Gail decided to clean up some of the trees in the back yard that Peyton had roughed up, so she asked me for a saw. I suppose I should have paid closer attention to her, because Gail is a go getter. After giving me plenty of time to respond to her request for a saw, Gail grabbed one out of my woodshop and went to town on the trees in the backyard. She said that saw sure cut through those branches even though it was not a saw specifically designed for pruning trees. Can you guess what kind of saw she used?

Was it my dovetail saw? No.

Was it my Carcass Saw? No.

Was it my Tenon Saw? No.

Was it a DeWalt Reciprocating Saw? No.

Was it a Coping Saw? No.

Was it a Fret Saw? No.

Gail has style. When the dog jumps up and buggers up the lower limbs of the trees in our back yard, Gail cleans them up with a Panther Saw.

At first I was a little upset, but after hearing her describe how well it cut, I decided to try for myself. Wow…that Panther really does cut!!!!!

My safety advice is to pay attention when a loved one asks to borrow a tool. Gail and I got lucky. The borrowing of the Panther Saw worked out this time, but it could have easily had a disastrous outcome. A kinked blade or a dinged horn would have clearly led to a rumble in the backyard, and only one of us would have walked away.

Gail, you’ve been warned. Touch my Panther Saw again, and I’ll cut you!!!!