I have been using the new Jet curved blade jig on my large Tormek, to grind the subtle curve which I find so useful in ...

Time to be fair. Harbor Freight's turning chisels probably wouldn't have bent and broken as shown in the previous entry if I had the experience to know that:

• They were not sharpened properly- The tools had several angles ground into them creating a convex shape. Properly sharpened tools are straight or concave (slightly hollow). This allows proper use of the bevel when cutting.
• I was applying the tool incorrectly- I did not use the tools properly because from the beginning they were not ground properly (see above). So when I was attempting to sharpen them, I was not achieving anything other than to duplicate the way they arrived. This led to me failing to "ride the bevel". I was using all the tools as scrapers instead of cutting tools. That led to catches, shattering handles, bent tools, etc.
  

I really wish I had taken pics of the tool tips as they arrived. But these being my first set of tools, I had no idea they were anything other than acceptable.

Watching some video and reading some books led me to my first revelation: Sharpening. I was sharpening the tools very poorly, adding facets and a convex shape to the bevel. A very quick and dirty jig for my grinder changed that.

It's made from 3/4 MDF, glue and screws. The angle of the bed is easily adjustable by loosening a screw and moving the bed. A protractor of some kind is still needed to get any repeatability, but I find that setting the bed with the tool against the stone works as long as the bevel angle is trustworthy.

Light touches, and a cup of water nearby keep from blueing the carbon steel. I have in my budget to buy proper tools soon made from HSS and much more substantial than these flimsy little guys.

My second revelation came when I discovered cutting angles. Having the tool at right angles to the spinning workpiece is rarely the proper orientation. I found that cutting from side to side makes a world of difference. As does riding the bevel. The wood practically just falls off the workpiece when I find the sweet angle for that cut.

I'm still learning and making mistakes. That's cool. I'm having a blast anyway!

Here are a couple things that have come off my lathe:

The mug in the rear is made of laminated maple. That was done purely with my poor sharpening and tool control techniques. Good results, but took way longer than it should have.

The mug in the front is padauk and some kind of yellow wood veneer between the laminated layers. I started it with the poor technique, with it taking even longer than the maple one due to padauk's toughness. But the lessons learned were applied to it at the end, and even the padauk came slicing off with ease using properly sharpened tools and good technique.

The tool handle is cocobolo. Talk about a difficult wood to cut. I was at the grinder ever 2 minutes or so. The coco would dull the tools faster than anything I've cut so far. But it has an amazing grain and looks outstanding.

The play between the sapwood and heartwood is beautiful. The photos don't really do it justice, which is too bad. It is finished with just beeswax applied on the lathe. The ferrule is just a copper 3/4" plumbing coupler from Lowe's. 75c each. I ground it down a bit shorter than it was originally. I still need to polish it. The thing is just stuck on there for now to get a feel for how it will look completed. I added the little details at the front of the handle to give me a tactile warning when I'm choking up really high. Keeps me from having to look at my hands when turning, I know exactly where they are now.

I haven't decided which turning chisel to award this beauty to.

The Long's Park Art & Craft Festival is a juried exhibition of the products made by talented craftspeople who work in a variety of media. I sought out the woodworkers, of course, and asked them about their pieces.

First I encountered Joe Graham (Photos 1, 2, & 3. Photo #2 is from Joe's website), Windsor chairmaker and instructor/owner of Lenox Workshops in Ohio. Joe works with handtools and at the show used a workbench made from 3 slabs of thick, single-dovetailed wood, a stretcher, and tusk tenons. The bench didn't rack at all while he used a drawknife to shape spindles, so it was an effective, knock-down workbench—perfect for travel.

Joe, who studied with Mike Dunbar and Ernie Conover, offers week-long classes, including private room, all meals and materials. By the end of the week, you will turn a log into a Windsor chair, using only handtools. The classes focus on several styles of traditional Windsors, but Joe also offers his own adaptations in his product line.

Next, I met Sam Martin (photos 4, 5, & 6), who makes intricately-detailed scale reproductions of a multitude of vehicles and who co-wrote Making Toys: Heirloom Toys to Make in Wood. As if the amount of work required to construct his pieces wasn't impressive enough, he pointed out that all his vehicles have moving parts. Doors & tool boxes open, gates fold down, fire truck ladders extend, and spreaders on road graders move sideways and foreward and backward, just like on a real one.

The logging truck was my favorite and he explained that the miniature logs were cut from saplings on his property. I asked how he made the tire treads (shown on the road grader and on the vehicle above the cattle truck). He cuts the circle first and then uses a table saw jig which is equipped with a protractor that indicates where to cut the treads. His products make great gifts for collectors as well as grandkids. But if they were my grandkids, I doubt I'd let them play with these beauties unsupervised!

Brad Smith (photos 7, 8, & 9), owner of Bradford Woodworking, studied at R.I.T. and belongs to the Pennsylvania Guild of Craftsmen.

Brad builds unique and custom pieces, some of which incorporate his signature design element—ax handle legs—which are turned on an antique ax handle lathe. The lathe leaves a ridged pattern on the wood which ax makers would sand smooth. Brad instead allows the ridges to remain, which gives his pieces a handcarved, organic look.

His tractor seat stools, which include ax handle legs, also feature a reproduction tractor seat, produced by an Amish foundry in Lancaster County, PA, that comes complete with the Bradford Woodworking logo.

Be sure to check out Brad's website and also his blog.

The last woodworker I met was Todd Gill of TMG Designs (Photo #10). Todd is a recent graduate of East Carolina University and worked collaboratively with Brian Bortz to design the sofa tables in his booth. Brian designed the shape of the tables and Todd constructed them and designed the decorative inlay, made from metal and colored resin, for the table tops. All other pieces in Todd's collection are designed and built solely by him. He mainly works with veneer over mdf, which enables him to control wood movement and allows him to use highly figured species.

The designs have a contemporary feel, and Todd told me his products sell better in certain larger cities that appreciate modern furniture. The market, he said, changes with each year and it's difficult to predict when pieces will sell or not. Todd works part time in his business, participates in 10 shows a year across the country, and works as a sub contractor for other furniture makers.

He was also the youngest participant at the show, in his early twenties, and it was refreshing to see this kind of talent in a young woodworker.

Be sure to visit the woodworkers' websites for more information about them and their works of art.

It's been a little while but lumber species of the month is back again.  Today though, we're not talking about a specific species of lumber but more of an beneficial defect that can be found in lumber.

Spalted lumber refers to any lumber in which a fungus or mold has begun to decay the wood and leaves a really unique pattern and color in the grain that looks like nothing else. 

Thanks to Highland Woodworking for donating a WoodSlicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade for this week's schwag giveaway.  If you're in the market for a great blade, this is the one.  It resawed 4/4, 4" wide red oak boards on my 1/3 HP, 50 year old bandsaw like it was slicing bread (no exaggeration!!). 

And if you're not in the market for a bandsaw blade at least stop by and enter for a chance to win a Festool Kapex during their 30th Anniversary Giveaway.

If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or  head over to my website at www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or call our Skype Voicemail at 231 354-2338.

If you have the time, please take the new listener survey.

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Feedback and questions are what help to make this show move and we got some in today's episode.  A couple of listeners had some great feedback in regards to the hammer episode so I thought I'd share it with you.

Don't forget!! Hendrik is back in September so get your questions in for our open Q&A session.  

If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or  head over to my website at 231 354-2338.

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In the US, there is a current discussion about a presidential candidate who apparently doesn't know how to used email. The question raises an interesting point.

Without going into the politics of the whole thing, which is a subject much better suited for other blogs, let's just look at the question of whether or not it is vital to be technologically integrated in this day and age.

If a person is, let's say over 50, is it vital that they get a computer and get into the internet age? I say no. I am not even convinced that the young should be totally immersed in it. Knowing how it works and understanding it is one thing, but for some of us, we would be better served to "just say no". For many more of us, we would be well served to limit our exposure.

I am not even talking about the renowned sinful temptations and cyberdangers of the internet. I am just talking about wasting our precious time in the pursuit of "efficiency."  read more »

Real quick...Here are seven reasons to install energy efficient windows:

* Save energy
* Save money from using less heating or AC
* Add to appearance of the house
* Protect a home's interior furnishings from fading
* Higher impact resistance
* Make outside noise less audible
* Insulate your home better, keeping it warm in the winter and cool in the summer

With reasons like those, it's no wonder energy efficient windows are all the rage. If your windows need to be repaired or even replaced, consider installing energy efficient windows.

How exactly do I pick out energy efficient windows?

When picking out energy efficient windows, you want to look for windows that are Energy Star certified.

Energy Star was developed by the Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency. The government program's purpose is to help individuals and organizations protect the environment through energy efficiency. The standard does not just apply to windows but to other products as well.

For the purpose of this article, we will be taking a look at windows that are Energy Star certified. What makes windows Energy Star certified? Any Energy Star product including windows must meet the following criteria:

* Have an NFRC (National Fenestration Rating Council) label. The NFRC tests the insulating quality of the entire window.
* Be 40% more efficient than the product usually requires under most building codes.
* Reduce energy bills by up to 15%.

Customers cannot just rely on the Energy Star label to pick out a good energy efficient window though. An important consideration for consumers is to select windows that are appropriate for the area of the country in which they live. Energy Star labels windows three ways:

* "N" for northern climates
* "S" for southern climates
* "C" for central climates

The three types of windows are designed to address the heating or cooling concerns in each climate: mostly heating for the Northern Zone, mostly cooling for the Southern Zone, and both heating and cooling for the Central North Zone and Central South Zone.

How Energy Efficient Windows Improve the House Aside from saving energy, energy efficient windows are particularly fantastic in states that can get extremely cold. These windows work to make homes warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, which becomes particularly evident in states with very cold winters and states with extremely hot summers. With these windows insulating well, homeowners spend less on heating and air conditioning bills. Energy efficient windows also improve the house due to their attractive appearance, though not all energy efficient windows are the same. Homeowners have choices concerning main parts of the window, such as the frame, panes, and spacers.

Parts of the Window

* The frame

Look for windows that have fiberglass, wood composites, or vinyl because these materials are better at insulating. One negative aspect of using wood material for framing is that wood can be difficult to maintain, often needing painting after a few years. Thus, if you choose to frame your windows using wood material, it's advised to get some exterior vinyl or aluminum cladding to cover the wood frame.

* Window Panes

If wondering whether having multiple window panes is preferred to having one window pane, remember the phrase 'Two is Better than One' or 'The More the Merrier.' Two panes of glass with space in between filled with air or krypton or argon insulates better than just one pane of glass does. Certain Energy Star windows have windows with three or more panes of glass, which do the best job of insulating and have greatest the impact resistance as well as improved energy efficiency. Another benefit of multiple panes is that they keep outside noise out better than a single glass pane does.

* Low-E glass coating

Low-E coating is a special coating on the window that is great to have. It reflects infrared light to keep heat outside in the summer and inside in the winter. It also reflects ultraviolet light to protect a home's interior furnishings from fading.

* Warm Edge Spacers

Warm edge spacers are great for reducing heat flow and preventing condensation. Made of foam, steel, fiberglass, or vinyl, they keep a window's glass panes the right distance apart.

There are many brands of energy efficient windows from which to choose. Manufacturers include those such as Accent Windows, Andersen, Cascade Windows, CertainTeed, Gorell, Marvin, Winstrom, and many more. Home improvement companies select which manufacturer brand they would like to make available to their customers. For example, Highland Windows, a Connecticut home improvement company based in Hartford (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/ct/hartford/) is licensed to install Alside, another energy efficient window manufacturer, which has won The Energy Star Window of the Year Award three times.

All Around the Home is an online directory that profiles contractors, allowing visitors to search by service needed such as windows (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/exterior/windows/) and by region such as Connecticut (http://www.allaroundthehome.com/exterior/windows/ct/). Homeowners may request a free estimate from contractors they are interested in.

How many times have you overheard somebody make this comment? “Finishing is my least favorite part of woodworking. It’s so hard to figure out the difference between BLO and Danish oil and Teak oil, and all the other brands of varnishes and oils available.” I’ve been woodworking for years and I totally agreed with the comment. But it doesn’t have to be such a mystery.

Doug Hicks has a clear and concise way of explaining it all during this weeks Woodsmith Woodworking Seminar Podcast. Instead of “…apply two coats and let dry,” his directions for finishing with varnishes and oils will make everything crystal clear.

You’ll want to pick up the Seminar Guide at the Woodsmith Podcast Store. It’s full of great information on oils and varnishes.

The November 2008 Membership Directory has been posted - go to Directory on the Members Menu. The Members Menu will only appear after you Login using your User Name and Password. If you are a Member and have not Registered your User Name and Password yet, please do so by using the Login Register item on the Main Menu.

I am constantly amazed at the differing reactions that can follow from rather mild advice proffered on woodworking forums.
A recent thread on Fine Woodworking ...

One of the best parts of visiting the home of Popular Woodworking last week is that I was able to assure Chris Schwarz and Megan Fitzpatrick that I was just messin' with them about their contest to write Out of the Woodwork features.

I have to admit that Megan knows how to take a joke, and just to show there were no hard feelings, she let me pose for a photo with the Leigh Jig that they are giving away to the person who submits the winning article.

Nice, Megan. I think you were saying that my being disqualified from the contest for submitting articles under Gail's name isn't so unpardonable a sin as to preclude my ever appearing in the magazine again. It's just that the photo below is the closest I will get to winning a prize.


Megan has been assessed a 15 yard Unsportsmanlike Conduct penalty for "Taunting." The penalty will be assessed on the kickoff.

In some parts of the world winter time has finished, while in other parts, autumn is starting… Wherever you live, is a good moment to show you this lovely puppet that is wearing cozy and warm clothes.

I improvised the pattern, so I´ll try to remember it for you.

1 - Cast on 14 loops. Make 7 rows of elastic stitch.

2 - Row 8: Knit 2, separate 4 loops in an extra needle, Knit 3, separate 4 loops in an extra needle, Knit 2. Increase 6 stitches (4 next to the loops you separate, 1 at the beggining, 1 at the end).
3 - Row 9: Purl (leaving the 8 loops you separate without purl, in their extra needles).

4 - Row 10: Knit

5 - Row 11: Purl

6 - Row 12: Knit

7 - Row 13: Purl

8 - Separated loops: they are going to be the arms. Make a knot with the yarn in the first loop of one arm (4 loops). Knit the row increasing 2 stitches (you get 6 stitches). Alternate Purl and Knit each row. I made 5 rows. Do the same with the other arm. After that sew the back part of the body and the arms.

9 - Head: Cust on 8 loops and alternate knit and purl along 9 rows. Increase until the 5th row until you have 18 loops, then decrease until you have 6 or 8. You´ll get a rounded shape. After finishing the head, sew it and fullfil it with cotton or a similar material. Then sew the head to the body.

10 - I Knitted the scarf, custing on just 3 loops and making Jersey. (Knit one row, Purl one row). I made the hat with sc (single crochet), crochetting circular. You can variate and put hair made of yarn).

11 - Make the hands: use crochet to make the little balls, there isn´t a technique, I made sc until I had a round little hand.

12 - I made tho little eyes with the sewing needle: look at those beautiful green eyes! But he is mouthless…

I think he is lovely! It was a moment of inspiration, I hope to have those moments more often!

FrAn

Hey everyone here's the promised video on "how to shoot with a shooting board".  Highlights include why doesn't the plane damage the reference edge and of course what's the best technique.

If you're curious about my other resource checkout White Mountain Design they have a great tutorial on shooting boards including an excellent photo answer to the #1 question.

If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or  head over to the website www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.

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I'm back...last week I ended up flat on my back thanks to the flu!!  I'm still a little weak, but feeling a ton better!!

Today's episode is my response to a listener's email that came in awhile ago.  Scott's in the market for a new router table and maybe a router and was wondering what I might look for if I were looking to get a new one.

Regardless of the manufacturer there are key items and accessories that I consider to be crucial in models I'm looking at.  So for today I'll share with you my thoughts on the router and on the next episode it's time to take a look at router tables.

For anyone interested, coming up on April 11 & 12, 2008 there's a great little tool demo and woodworking school openhouse going on at J. Miller Handcrafted Furniture in Chicago. The details can be found at Lie-Nielsen, there will be some great demos by a number of well known woodworkers and I'm planning on checking it out myself.

Don't forget to get your questions in for Hendrik's next visit in April, we're talking lumber defects and how to work around them.  For comments, questions and schwag entries drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com.

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Recently, Gazebo can be applicated as :

• Decorating of the house yard
• Placed in the edge of the pools as a relaxing place
• Placed in the house yard or garden
• Placed in the backyard or terrace at the back house

Chris Schwarz has posted a wonderful review of my third book on his blog.

He must be a mindreader, as he points out that ...

"I'm really scared to do this glass block window installation" a customer recently said. "Don't you have a way to make it easier, lighter, and maybe even cut down the mess for my window project?" Fortunately the answer is yes - it's by using vinyl or aluminum framed windows built with acrylic and glass blocks. In this article you'll learn the following:

1. Why framed windows systems can make your project easier
2. What products and sizes are available
3. What rooms a vinyl framed window system will work best in
4. Where to use both glass windows vs. acrylic block windows systems
5. Cool and unique projects ideas.

1) Why framed windows systems can make your life easier

Let's face it mortared block window installations are messy. Getting the right mortar mix is not easy, and there is always the concern of the pre-fabricated window assembly breaking just as you go to set it into the opening. Framed window systems take much of the guess-work, weight, and worries away.

Framed windows are pre-assembled with silicone joints between the blocks (getting rid of the need to mix mortar) and are usually made with 2" thick glass or acrylic units (reducing the weight by as much 1/3 to ½ vs. traditional block units made of 3" and 4" thick block).
With integral nailing fins the windows are installed like standard vinyl windows (they are nailed into the opening for new construction or built without the fins for a replacement window application) without the mess usually associated with a mortared glass window. Since the windows are siliconed together inside a vinyl frame they can be shipped nationwide and have been used in states with varied weather patterns - from Florida to Minnesota to California to Maine.

2) What product and size options are available?

Factory assembled framed block windows systems can be made of with vinyl or aluminum frames using either glass or acrylic blocks inside the windows. Glass block sizes used most often are 8" x 8" x 2" (for the reduced weight), 6" x 6" x 3", and 8" x 8" x 4" in a wide variety of patterns and colors. Acrylic block sizes used most frequently are 8" x 8", 6" x 6" and occasionally 9" x 9" and are usually 1 ½" to 2" thick. Frame colors can vary with white and almond being the most common.

3) What rooms should you use a vinyl framed window system

The main reasons to choose a block window system are where you want privacy, a cool clean look, style, and privacy all wrapped in one window solution. Since these windows meet tempered window standards they are stronger and harder to break than standard glass windows which make them safe to use in bathroom and other higher risk areas of a home or business.

Acrylic or glass block windows are being used in bathrooms as either transom windows above tub surrounds or above soaking and Jacuzzi tubs on the side of the home for privacy. Kitchen and den backsplashes are becoming a more popular application to get natural light underneath cabinetry.
These windows are being used in stairwells in commercial buildings and for churches who want light, security, and color with their windows (a church in New Mexico is looking to put in green, purple, red, and orange colored glass blocks into one framed window assembly). Sidelites around front doors and closets are using block windows to get security and light without compromising privacy.
For most basement windows considering using block windows without frames - it is usually better to mortar these windows into their masonry and poured wall foundations than to have a vinyl frame around the windows.

4) Where to use glass and acrylic framed window systems

There is much debate over whether glass or acrylic is better for your window projects. The simple answer is they both have their place and that is why both materials are successful in the market. Here is a quick look at where it's best to use each product.

Advantages and Where to Use Framed Glass Block Windows

- Where you want the strength & durability of a real glass window for scratch resistance and quality
- If you want to incorporate a wide variety of colors into your windows
- Where you are concerned about what cleaning products may be used on the windows - (acrylic blocks can have problems if abrasive cleaning agents are used on the block's surface)
- If you like a slimmer frame around your window
Advantages and Where to Use Framed Acrylic Block Windows
- If you want a fully operable single hung, casement, awning, or slider window (acrylic windows can be provided with cranks and fully operable window sashes). In addition acrylic windows can be used in arch top, hexagon, octagon, or round top window designs.
- If you need an energy star or Low E rated window.
- If you want a lighter window for ease of installation.
- If you need a custom fit block size for a replacement window application.

5) Cool and Unique Project Ideas

Here are some different ideas to consider with your block windows:

- A step down almond colored vinyl framed glass block window was used above a soaking tub in a home builder's Parade Home in Columbus Ohio.
- A therapist in New Orleans Louisiana is planning to use a slider acrylic block window in a waiting room inside of an existing glass block wall for privacy and to keep the all block look.
- A home being remodeled in Dallas Texas is considering installing a framed window with a block art mural with an ocean scene applied directly on the glass (this decorative art mural uses glass frit which is baked directly into the glass making it a permanent part of the glass).
- A church in Arkansas is looking to put a Ruby Red colored cross inside a framed window.
With framed glass and acrylic block windows and a vast selection of styles, patterns, colors, sizes and designs - projects have never been easier, cooler, and neater to do!

Mike Foti is President of Columbus Glass Block, Cleveland Glass Block, Mid America Glass Block Cincinnati, Dayton, Akron & Eastern Glass Block New York & New Jersey - nationwide suppliers of acrylic block windows and also vinyl framed glass block window manufacturers including patterned and color glass blocks.
For nationwide questions and orders call 877-668-5888

http://www.columbusglassblock.com/ - bathroom glass block windows, acrylic block windows, colored glass block, vinyl framed glass block windows

http://www.columbusglassblock.com/product_new-construction.aspx vinyl framed glass block windows, color glass block, glass block sizes, acrylic block windows, installing glass block windows

Well here they are - the “mystery planes� I have been teasing about.

Here is the deal... in 1941, Norris was commissioned to make a plane to be awarded as the first prize in a furniture making competition. The recipient of the plane kept it in new condition all these years. It was sold at auction in 2006 for over £16,000. Shortly after the auction - I was commissioned to make a reproduction of this plane with one change - infilled with ebony (the original was infilled with Brazilian Rosewood).



It was a fantastic and challenging commission to say the least. The only reference I had was a series of photos and two dimensions - the overall length of 13-5/8" and the width of 2-3/8".



Norris clearly emptied the bag of tricks on this plane. The handle tilts to the left and right just like the Stanley No.10-1/4 - but it also pivots left and right.



I was also excited to try a wedged plane with an adjuster. The screw that passes through the keeper engages a brass insert in the wedge. The mechanics of this is very cool. The brass insert is offset and when the screw is tightened - it acts as a drawbore - driving the wedge tighter into the body of the plane. Very cool indeed!



After studying the photos I agreed to the commission. I also decided I would make a prototype to work out any unforeseen bugs. I did not want to “prototype� the commissioned plane. Infilling the prototype with Brazilian Rosewood seemed like a logical choice.

Everything worked without a hitch for the most part - and keeping the prototype ahead a few steps certainly helped refine the building process.

The mouth was one aspect that I really had to psych myself up for. I use what can only be described as an antiquated method - but it has always worked for me, and I did not see any reason why I should re-invent the wheel now. Here are a series of photos of cutting the mouth.



I still use a hacksaw to cut the mouth on shoulder and rebate planes. The difference with this plane is that it is 2-3/8" wide as opposed to the widest shoulder at 1-1/2". I was a little nervous.

My friend Steve had stopped in a few times as I was working on the pair of planes and he asked how I was going to do the mouth. I handed him the hacksaw. His only comment was “ I gotta see this!� I guess his response freaked me out a little bit more, so I decided to cut and file the mouth on my own (sorry Steve). I was not sure I would be able to handle an audience if I messed it all up!

As it turned out - it worked perfectly and I felt bad for not inviting Steve to be there for it. He was on hand as I was finishing it up though - and I handed him the triangular piece of waste from the sole.

Here are a few detail shots of the mouth being done;





Two of three cuts are done - the last one is the “easiest� :)

Here are some further photos of the two planes.

















I should also mention that I have decided to sell the Brazilian Rosewood filled prototype. This is only the second prototype I have sold - all the others live on my bench. This plane is marked KP30-08 on the bed - KP stands for “Konrad Prototype�. The price is $9,000.00 Cdn.

Hi Folks
Well - that's that. I've finished in the workshop and put the bench in the back of the van ready for the journey to Westonbirt tomorrow. I've just about finished all the planes I was hoping to make and I'm sat at the computer now printing out signs and labels. The rain is falling outside (obviously having a last go before the coming heatwave...........) but I'm not worried. I know its going to be a great weekend :)
I've made a couple of planes from some Indonesian Rosewood I've been hoarding. One is the pretty little smoother I showed off yesterday - the other is a monster Miter plane. She looks just awesome! If anyone is interested they'll be on my bench this coming weekend :)

Shock of the day was the Wife coming out to the workshop with the phone. "It's Konrad", she says. My jaw drops - not Konrad Sauer??
Oh, yes - a quick call before he heads to the airport to make his way over. It was great to have a quick chat (and also to find I'm not the only one feverishly packing bags!) and I'm really looking forward to spending a few days in his company. Did I mention Konrad and I will have our benches set up next to each other (along with Infill maker Bill Carter!) in the Classic Hand Tools marquee?
So make sure you head over to Westonbirt this weekend for the "Festival of the Tree" - you won't be disappointed!
Cheers
Philly

It's Friday and today we're reviewing one of the titles from the Popular Mechanic's Workshop series "Jointer & Planer Fundamentals" by Rick Peters. 

Two of the most important tools in the workshop, being able to choose and use the right model of jointer and planer is an important step in building amazing furniture. 

Within the chapters of this great resource the reader will find a ton of information on why certain models work best.  Which accessories are crucial.  Basic and advanced techniques of using the tools and so much more. 

I really wanted to hold on to this book, but it's a resource that needs to be shared. Not this week's winner? Click here to get a copy from Woodcraft.

If you'd like to enter for free schwag, have a comment, question or suggestion, drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or  head over to the website.  Or...leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.

Interested in ordering DVDs containing the complete series of audio, video and PDF episodes from Years 1 & 2 of MBW?  Drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com, $25 for each or $40 for both.  Also, each month I'll be selling CDs with all of the previous month's episodes for $8.

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Do most people have high opinions of bunnies?

Because I am starting my workday covered in bunny fur.

It all goes back to Ireland. During my vacation in Ireland in June, I bought at least four sweaters that my wife refers to as “old man sweaters.� There is a cardigan with a full zipper that is especially Fred Rogers’ish when I don it to fight off the nip. However, last week I tossed it into the tiny trunk of the Benz and managed to bust out two zipper teeth when the trunk latch came down on it. It is off at Suzy Tailor (that can’t be her real last name) having the zipper replaced this week.

During my transition from Michigan to Indianapolis I am living with my parents while diligently looking for a new home. (Do you have any idea how tough it is to find a house that provides at least 1000 square feet of woodshop area in addition to at least 3 stalls of garage space in a neighborhood that would be willing to accept ME?????) So during this time of living with my folks, most of my clothing is still in Michigan. All of my coats and jackets are in Michigan. I just brought two old man sweaters to Indianapolis. The cardigan is at the tailor for repair, so this morning I ran back into the house and pulled on my Bunny Hair (Angora) Commando Sweater. I pulled it on over my lovely oxford dress shirt. My cufflinks dug into the sleeves as I wrestled the sweater over the upper half of my body, but eventually I got it on. I drove to work with the outside temperature digitally indicated at 31 degrees. Even with the seat heaters in the VW I am glad I had the sweater on.

I arrived at work, walked to my office, and pulled the sweater off. My lovely dress shirt is COVERED in blue fuzz. It is angelically soft blue fuzz. It is the blue fuzz of the softest bunnies on the planet, but I am covered in blue fuzz.

Something else…since I am the owner of the most famous dog in Woodworking (the yellow lab Peyton), my world contains countless sticky lint rollers. And even though my entire career has seen one of these in my desk drawer, I have not yet brought one in for my new office. So I am sitting here... FUZZY... with no tape roller available.

I have to wonder about the style factor. When judging pieces of flair, can the bunny hair be considered an accessory since its navy color accents nicely with the various blues in the pattern of my shirt? Perhaps I am at the forefront of a new look. If Bunny Fuzz become THE look of the fall season, remember you saw it here first.

Hi Folks
Time for another woodworking show - Yandles in Martock, Somerset.
I do enjoy Yandles, a twice yearly event. It is held in a working sawmill and has a wonderful atmosphere - huge woodworking machines lurking everywhere, stack after stack of planks air drying in the fields and the smell of tannins in the air. It's not the biggest show but definitely the friendliest.
I'll be there Friday and Saturday - do pop by my bench and say hello!

Back in the workshop I've been busy with the Rosewood again. Just finished a Luthiers Scrub plane - a lovely little plane. The sole is gently curved in both directions (front to back, side to side) which allows you to cut hollow surfaces. If you've ever used a curved spokeshave you've probably found it a bit difficult to keep the tool cutting throughout the cut - this scrub is completely different! It is so simple to use and has a very shallow learning curve. I was so pleased with the way it worked I had to make one for myself, so a baby version in Pau Rosa was born :)

So - better go pack the van ready for Yandles.
See you there?

Philly

I have let the components of the cabinet base or the cabinet stand sit for a couple of days to have them release any internal tension from the resawing operations performed earlier. This tension is due to the interior part of the wood not being as dry as the outside , therefore typically contracting inwards to form a concave form. After a day or so I began to plane the legs a small amount to create flat reference surfaces on two adjacent sides. I then use these perfectly flat sides to dimension the legs to the proper thickness all around. This is one area where it is best to take the time and do it right regarding the judicious dimensioning. I monitor the leg stability every so often, making sure there is no bowing or twist occurring from pent up tension. Th extra material I had left in each dimension would allow me to remove this safely if it does occur. I have also highlighted the grain orientation of the legs and aprons.

I also have the parts for the four aprons almost ready, they are rough dimensioned at this stage with a flat reference surface. I also check this flat reference surface periodically to confirm that it is still flat and not cupped, bowed, etc. When these base or stand components have stabilized further, I will dimension them to the finished sizes. Afterwards, I introduce a taper to each of the legs which I perform initially with the bandsaw and then handplaning the surfaces flat. I also have the blank for the drawer faces selected. The blank is a straight, fine grained Santos mahogany and from it I will rough cut three drawer faces.

Well, it's that time of year again. My wife and I are off to the mountains for a few days of hiking, kayaking and relaxing. With our warm and humid summers up here, we like to go to the mountains as it's cooler and drier. I'll continue where I left off when I am back.

You can sharpen your woodworking skills with helpful tips and techniques from the editors of Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines. Get a FREE tips sent to your email address each week! Got to Woodworking Tips.com and sign up today.

Here’s last week’s tip from Woodsmith online editor Ted Raife:

My oscillating disc sander has built-in dust collection and it works great — but only when the holes in the sanding disc are aligned with the vacuum holes in the sander’s pad. And this simple requirement isn’t always as easy as it sounds. So rather than rely on a good aim when installing the discs, I put together a simple tool that makes hitting the mark a sure thing.

As you can see in Figure 1, the tool is nothing more than two dowels glued into a small block of wood. The diameter of the dowels and their spacing in the block matches that of the holes in the discs and sanding pad.

To use the tool, you simply place a disc over the dowels and then insert them into the holes in the pad (Figure 2). Slip the disc off of the dowels and onto the pad and you’re ready to go.

Good Woodworking,

Ted Raife
Online Editor, Woodsmith

Send for a preview issue of Woodsmith magazine

You can sharpen your woodworking skills with helpful tips and techniques from the editors of Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines. Get a FREE tips sent to your email address each week! Got to Woodworking Tips.com and sign up today.

Here’s last week’s tip from Woodsmith online editor Ted Raife:

It always breaks my heart when a project gets its first scratch. But I know that even with the best of care, it’s bound to happen. So rather than stew over a minor blemish, I came up with an easy way to make it disappear.

My repair system started with an investment in an assortment of touch-up markers. You can get these from many woodworking and finishing supply companies. My set includes about a dozen different colors and this gives me a good shot at finding a close match to the project. But the trick is finding the best color match without relying on a lucky guess.

To help make a more informed choice, I created a sample sheet on a piece of clear acetate. The sheet contains a small, labeled swatch from each marker. As you see in the photo, I simply hold the sheet up to the project to find a good match. After choosing a marker and performing a quick touchup, the project looks as good as new and I feel a whole lot better.

For more helpful project tips, techniques, and plans, visit PlansNOW.

Good Woodworking,

Ted Raife
Online Editor, Woodsmith

She was short. It was 1996, and I still remember holding her in the Steak ‘n Shake parking lot and telling her that I wouldn’t be gone long. I was only moving to Michigan for 6 months at the most and I would come back to Indianapolis.

I just had to take the job up north to increase my salary and responsibilities before I could come back to Indianapolis as a “player.�

I believe our relationship was officially dead about two weeks later.

Then, I met Gail who had spent nearly her entire life in Holland, Michigan, and as the weather warmed and the frozen waves melted to reveal the beautiful white sand beaches of Lake Michigan, I fell in love not only with Gail but with this cute little town that cheers its Dutch Heritage.

Gail let me know from the moment I proposed to her that she would follow me anywhere in the world. (She apparently sees something in me that the vast majority of women never did…). Gail’s chance to follow through on that promise is just days away.

This weekend Gail and I are heading up to Traverse City for our annual color tour with the West Michigan section of the Mercedes Benz Club of America. We’ll scoot out of there on Sunday morning so we can make it back to Holland in time to watch the Colts play. Then, when the game is over, I’ll jump back in the car to complete the plan I started twelve and half years ago. To quote Tito, Jermaine, Jackie, Marlon, and Michael….�I’m going back to Indiana.�

On Monday morning, I officially exit the auto industry and jump into the most exciting challenge of my adult life. On Monday morning, I’ll wake up in Indianapolis and drive to my first day with what can likely be the last company I’ll ever work for.

There are lots of things to worry about. I don’t mean the part about finding a new house or debating with the movers just how big a jointer has to be before it becomes “excessive.� No, being me, my worries now shift to what to listen to while driving to that first day at my new office…

As Bernie Casey’s character John Slade said while takin’ it to The Man in I’m Gonna Git You Sucka, “This is my theme music. Every good hero should have some.� So it’s important that I roll into my new place on Monday with just the right riff pulsating through the woofers and tweeters.

Right now I am leaning toward EWF. Even in the 21st Century, nothing backs up a hero like Earth, Wind, and Fire. However, I still cannot decide whether I want to set the tone for my career move with September, Let’s Groove Tonight, Got To Get You Into My Life, or Shining Star…. I have 3 days to decide.


FYI… just in case someone thinks I am kidding about this whole theme music thing…. feel free to verify with Gail what happened when I dropped her off for her class at church last night….

Imagine a silver Mercedes roadster with Earth, Wind, and Fire at 120 dB in a four wheel drift as it turns onto the church driveway at about 70 miles per hour…..

Baa Dee Yaa
Say do you remember
Baa Dee Yaa
Dancing in September...


That’s how I roll. And the scary part is… they want ME to be their latex salesman.