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Ramblings on design...
00/00/0000, 00:00 | The Refined Edge
Sometimes I spend time researching past furniture styles. I often read that much today has already been done before, and after seeing some good examples of period furniture, find some truth in this old adage. My favorite influential maker is George Hepplewhite and the associated furniture of his era. Furniture of the late 18th century has been mostly characterized by Chippendale and the cabriole leg design element. George Hepplewhite, however, is much less written about and known, and was characterized by the slight, tapered legs of his furniture and lightness and delicacy of his pieces. A considerable amount of 20th century furniture has been derived from this late 18th , early 19th century period and in particular the makers Chippendale and Hepplewhite. American Federal style furniture had its origins in the Hepplewhite style. Much of the design elements of this particular period have made their way into furniture of the past century. This can be considered a "revival" of a previous style in time, but I like to think of it as simply embracing design elements which were and continue to be pleasing to the eye..When I flip through examples of furniture representative of previous periods and styles, it is easy to see what worked and what didn't work. The design elements which are pleasing and well-proportioned are carried into later periods, whereas the not so pleasing styles typically die off. Another trend which I notice is how previous styles of furniture are sometimes renounced and discarded only to be replaced with a radically different style of furniture. We see this very same phenomenon today in everything ranging from fashion, automobiles, and continue to see it in furniture styles. A "revival" of a previous period or style of furniture then occurs, much like what occurs in the fashion world today.
The reason I raise this is that this is something to consider for furniture makers today. We all have our favorite style as makers, but it may be important to incorporate proven design elements in our designs, the elements which have demonstrated the most success over the past few centuries. Since what we are designing is often derived from a previous style or work, it makes more sense to derive elements from the successful styles of furniture.
I'm a big fan of clean, simple lines with minimal adornment, although I like to incorporate some inlay into my work. The inlay work sparks my creativity and in a strange way provides me the impetus to complete the furniture so as to add the inlay detail. I can relate the piece of furniture to a large canvas and the inlay is the artwork. Other makers might define themselves through another feature on their work, perhaps some carving or marquetry. George Hepplewhite often distinguished his work with added inlay. A large proportion of Hepplewhite and Federal style furniture is inlaid with the exotic woods which had come into popularity by the late part of the 18th century and early 19th century.
More on this later...
IMPORTANT: Awards Update
00/00/0000, 00:00 | LumberJocks.com :: woodworking showcaseI guess we have new LumberJocks Murphy’s Law and it’s official:
If anything can go wrong, it will when I go on vacation.
As you noticed, Summer 08 Awards Section has not been working properly in the past hours. Since I was on the road at the time, I wasn’t able to fix the problem before the entry period deadline.
Now it’s fixed and I decided to move following important dates:
- Entry opens on July 1, 2008 at 6 AM CDT and ends on August 3, 2008 at 3 PM CDT.
- Voting opens on August 4, 2008 at 6 AM CDT and ends on August 7, 2008 at 3 PM CDT.
Now I can go to bed after spending whole day in the car.. Germany, Belgium and Luxembourg were cool but that’s another story ;)
The Pleasure of Working with Sharp Tools
00/00/0000, 00:00 | David's blog"I wish I had ...
Drastic Measures
00/00/0000, 00:00 | David's blog
Here is the same 1 1/4" chisel back after about two hours of flattening work.
I tried several ...
Some thoughts on dovetails - part I
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Sauer & Steiner
For the last several weekends, I have been working on our kitchen drawers. I have just crossed a major milestone - there are more drawers completed than remain (only by 1... but it still feels great!). So I have had “dovetails” floating around in my head quite a bit lately.
There was in interesting thread about dovetails in one of the forums a week or so ago. The thread was titled “Skinny pins in hand cut dovetails”. After reading most of the thread - I started thinking on my own dovetail evolution - and the whys and how's of it. I have also had a bit of an epiphany moment sparked by that thread, and it has to do with the relationship between process and efficiency. I am fully aware that I may to step on a few toes with this one - and I am fine with that.
My goal with woodworking and planemaking is to become extremely efficient while continuing to improve my accuracy... and in that order. I make my living in the woodworking field - I have to be efficient. So everything I do is motivated by using the fastest method even if it means a slow initial learning curve - complete with bumps and errors. Sharpening is a perfect example. I made a very conscious decision to learn to freehand sharpen because once you know how - it IS the fastest way to sharpen. Sure, it made for a lot of frustrating sharpening sessions and the dizzying parade of sharpening jigs were quite tempting - but I can honestly say I am glad I stuck to my guns and learned to do it freehand. I am now fast at it, and don't hesitate to stop work to restore an edge. I will write more on freehand sharpening in another post.
Back to dovetails & efficiency. I believe that the dovetail joint is a functional mechanical joint that can be extremely beautiful if well executed. There are a lot of times when dovetails are used and they are not seen - and in these instances how it looks is less important (though they still need to be tight fitting and designed for mechanical strength). The drawer is usually to blame for all the discussion about dovetails - skinny pins vs fat pins, machine cut vs hand cut, spacing, angles, pin lengths etc. This is because these dovetails can be seen, and rightly or wrongly, have come to symbolize the quality of the piece they live in.
I decided that I would hand cut my dovetails for several reasons (in no particular order). I like the somewhat random and irregular look of handcut dovetails - they tell me that a person spent time making this - and I like that. I like skinny pins - especially in contrasting woods - they make everything look lighter and more delicate. I like irregular spacing. I tend to put narrower tails on the outside edges and gradually increase them as they get closer to the center. It means I don't need to do as much math and is really quite fast to lay out. Here is an example;
The tails on the top and bottom are 3/4", 1/16" pin, 1" tail, 1/16" pin, 1-1/4" pin. It makes for a somewhat rounding effect.
Once I made the decision to hand cut my dovetails it meant I needed to be as fast and efficient as I could be. To me, this means the goal is to be able to fit the dovetails off the saw - no paring. My friend Karen was over a few weeks ago and we were talking about this as we stood in a sea of kitchen drawer parts. I commented that I was going to cut to the line and not intentionally cut inside and then pare to the line. If I overcut and there was a gap - so be it. I would not scrap the drawer but live with it. I explained that I felt this was part of my learning process and working towards maximum efficiency. She gave me an affirming nod and agreed. As we continued to talk we realized that there are many woodworking schools out there that teach to cut well inside the line and to pare to get the right fit. Looking at that now - it seems a little off - it is teaching a process where the outcome is consistently a 10 hour dovetailed drawer! It may be beautiful and perfect - but the process strikes me as questionable - not to mention it is unrealistic to expect a client to pay for a drawer that took 10 hours to make. I would much rather endure the pain, suffering, and disappointment of a few gaps here and there knowing that I am slowly, over time, getting closer to dovetails that fit right off the saw (I am aware that I am building drawers for my own use and not for a client - so I do have the luxury of “learning” through my work). So with that in mind - here are a few examples of dovetails I have produced spanning my entire woodworking life.
This was the first furniture project I made with a drawer. The front is cherry and the sides are pine. Drat... it is a bit out of focus:)
These are the drawers on my left handed, shaker inspired bench. There are 10 drawers in all. The sides are 5/8" basswood and the fronts are 3/4" mildly curly soft maple. They are still a little clunky - but the spacing was starting to feel right on these.
This is a drawer in a table I built for my sister and her husband as a wedding gift. Skinny pins have arrived and are here to stay! 1/2" maple sides, 3/4" walnut front. Note the African Blackwood pull... I shaped them by hand... no lathe:(
Which brings us to the most recent dovetail project - the kitchen drawers. I have just finished 5 more kitchen drawers - here is a shot of the stack.
There was a magical moment that happened while building these 5 drawers - I did actually cut a set of dovetails that fit right off the saw. It is pictured below.
There are a few wee gaps - but after they were glued and planed flush, they were gone. And after this set - there was another set of 1/2 blinds and two sets of through dovetails that fit off the saw. This was most encouraging and confirmed to me that this longer road was the right road to take.
And hey... I have 7 more drawers to practice on!
Order, Mistakes and Karma
05/27/2008, 23:52 | Lost Art Press Blog John is at it again. We just finished a brutal month of traveling and teaching and John has got back in the shop!
There is a certain order or Karma to life, and when you violate this flow events let you know. Like the time I saw this woman and said ?when are you due? to wit she said, ?I am not pregnant!? Now the natural order would have flowed thus, a woman appears pregnant, you keep your mouth shut until she admits being pregnant, at which time you hesitantly congratulate her.
I learn through mistakes. I could be in the minority here but when I mess something up, I remember why and am less likely to repeat it. Like cutting on the wrong side of a line or jamming a perfectly sharp Barr chisel into my hand and cutting a tendon. Chris and I have been on the road a lot last month and I have not been in the shop much. The project shows my ?learning? and I hope someday to make something without learning anything.
To fix the problem I re-sawed a inch piece of wood and glued it to the full length of one side of the leg. After the glue up was dry, I snuck up on the fit. It now looks like this.
Can you guess which side has the wood glued to it? If you can, I will say that there is another learning experience in here. If you see a small glue line it is a result of that part of the piece not being clamped down to the leg. It could be that the piece was not flat or maybe the clamp is a bit off. Nonetheless, next time I will ensure the ?show? side has a seamless glue joint, and yes I am already fixing that nice nick off the bottom edge. Fortunately this will be painted!
-John
Dangerous Harbor Freight Tools
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a WoodscrubLittle did I know just how dangerous these are.
The chisels bent under normal use. Yes, bent. Right at the tool rest. Especially if because of the turning I can't get the rest right up against the workpiece. The tang that goes into the handle is just a thin, pointed bit of steel. (Sorry, forgot to snap a pic of that. If you want to see it, ask.) It bent easily on the large roughing gouge because the body of the tool was too substantial to bend at the rest.
The more dangerous item was the shattering handle. It shattered and sent the parting tool that was mounted into it flying across the garage. I still haven't found it, though I heard it wizzing past my ear when it launched.
Avoid the HF cheap turning tools if you value your life and health!
More saw sharpening
00/00/0000, 00:00 | UnpluggedShop.comHere are the promised pictures of my earlier saw sharpening adventures.
Remember that I am not offering these pictures as the standard of excellence. They all still have fairly major defects, but they are all quite usable and, in my opinion, cut pretty nicely, particularly when compared to what they were before I worked on them. I expect to take care of some of the defects with further sharpenings at some point in the future.
Here is the HSB & Co. OVB rip saw:
read more »
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Rings by Simply Wood Rings
Tricking the Banana
06/01/2008, 17:59 | Lost Art Press Blog 
One of the most common errors when planing is to create a gentle banana shape on one face ? where the ends of the board end up thinner than the middle.
The cause of this problem resides both in you and in your tool. First off, divide the sole of your plane into two regions: The infeed side of the sole before the blade (the toe). And the outfeed side of the sole behind the blade (the heel). And remember this: The blade of your plane isn?t co-planar with the outfeed side of your handplane.
This feature makes it different than your power jointer. As a result, a handplane has more of a tendency to make bananas. (By the way, you can make bananas ? and wedges ? with a power jointer as well).
But I think the tool?s role in banana-making is a minor problem. The bigger problem is you and where you are putting pressure on the tool as you plane. Here?s how it?s supposed to work:
At the beginning of the cut, plant the toe of your tool firmly against the work. With the hand on the front knob, put all of your downward pressure right there. Your other hand (on the tote) should only push the tool forward.
As soon as the entire sole is on the work, you should shift your pressure: Use equal and forceful downward pressure with both of your hands.
As soon as the toe runs off the end of the board, release the pressure there but continue to exert downward and forward pressure at the tote.
This work, but it can be a trick to remember for beginning planers. It?s hard to get all your muscles lined up. So I tell them this simple mental trick: Just try your darndest to plane a big old hollow valley in each board by scooping out the middle.
Planing a hollow in this manner is almost impossible to do with a handplane that has a flat sole. So what you wind up with is a board that is fairly consistent in its thickness.
I cannot take credit for this mental trick, but I can?t remember who told it to me years ago. But works like crazy. And with that aspect of planing under control, you can then turn your attention to removing cupping and twisting in your boards.
? Christopher Schwarz
SawStop Unveils a Less Expensive Cabinet Saw
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Popular Woodworking
In a move that will surely tighten the competition in the table saw market, SawStop announced
plans to introduce a less expensive version of its cabinet saw that will use the same
blade-stopping technology on its industrial cabinet saw and contractor saw.
The SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw is expected to cost somewhere between $2,500
to $2,800 (without accessories) and should be available during the spring of 2009,
company officials said. The company’s industrial cabinet saw costs between $2,799
and $3,899, though after Oct. 1, the price will increase to a range of $3,099 to $3,899.
The lower-priced SawStop cabinet saw will compete with other premium saws, such as
the new domestically made Delta Unisaw and the Powermatic PM2000, which starts at
about $2,500. Both of those saws have upgraded guards, but they do not include the
blade-stopping technology of the SawStop.
SawStop showed a pre-production model of its Professional Cabinet Saw at the International
Woodworking Fair in Atlanta and pointed out the changes the company made to reduce
the price. The new saw uses different blade-elevation controls and does not include
the nice gas shock on the industrial-level saw, which assists the user in raising
the blade.
Also, there is less cast iron in the trunnion assembly, the saw has a smaller tabletop
and it will be available with a 3 horsepower single-phase motor only.
The Professional Cabinet Saw includes a nice Formica-faced T-square fence system,
plus all the enhanced guards and blade-stopping technology found on its other saws.
The saw will weigh between 515 and 540 pounds and will be available with 52”- or 36”-long
fence rails.
In addition to the Professional Cabinet Saw, SawStop showed attendees its new contractor-style
saw (now available for $1,599 to $1,839) in a couple configurations and was showing
photos of the minor nicks that SawStop users received when their fingers came in contact
with a spinning sawblade.
Company officials say they have received reports of about 400 “saves” from users who
have set off the saw’s brake cartridge since the saws went on the market three years
ago. However, the company estimates that number to be about three times higher. The
company encourages users to send in the spent cartridges when they touch the blade
for further analysis, and they said that they will send the user a free replacement
cartridge in these instances (brake cartridges cost $69 for a 10” blade and $89 for
an 8” dado).
Since SawStop went on the market, the company has sold about 13,000 saws.
— Christopher Schwarz
Dude, Your Car Sounds So Fast
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving OffJust think about when today’s kids become woodworkers….things are going to be a lot different. I say this based upon their choice in automobiles.
To give a foundation for the validity of my statements, let me give you my resume.
I remember we were down in
A couple of years later, in college, I fell hard for convertibles, and I kept myself going knowing that my Rose-Hulman degree would land me an engineering job and enough salary to get a new convertible. During rainy college nights, when I would be fixing Thumper (my 1981 VW Rabbit) on the side of I-70, I vowed that I would get a new car (a convertible) the moment I graduated.
By the way, going from the GTO to Thumper was quite a change. Thumper only had compression in 3 of its 4 cylinders, so even though I thought I was Ayrton Senna when I would shift the four speed manual transmission, the car sure didn’t perform like his F1 car. Thumper didn’t perform or sound like my GTO. However, the GTO only got 8 miles to the gallon. (Honest to God…it got 8 mpg). Thumper was far more economical for a college student even with the cheap fuel we had in the early 1990s. Still, I always loved the sound of the V8.
- Leave your Mom’s Buick sounding just like it did the day she bought it.
- Get yourself an American V8 and bolt on some headers and a free flowing exhaust package and bask in the Symphony of the Right Foot Stomp
- Pay way too much money to get a race car that is hidden underneath the skin of a 4 door German luxury car, and go out looking for Corvettes and Mustangs to mess with.
If I don’t do this, then we are going to lose this generation to the mistaken belief that the WeedWhacker sound is not only acceptable, but that it actually symbolizes performance.
Episode 30 - Bombe Series - Drawer Shaping
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Episode 36 - Bombe Series - Drawer Front Dados
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Episode 25 - Bombe Series - Shaping the Dividers
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!FEIN Launches the New Generation of MultiMasters
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Highland Woodworking Blog
FEIN, the premium manufacturer of professional and reliable power tools is pleased to introduce its latest MultiMaster generation. The universal system for interior work and renovations is now significantly more convenient to use thanks to the new QuickIN tool changing system, and newly developed accessories that further extend the range of possible applications.
Since 1986, the FEIN MultiMaster has been selling with enormous success all over the
world. More than 40 years of experience in oscillating power tools has gone into the
development of the new FEIN MultiMaster. This new generation supersedes the previous
MSx 636 II (Start) and MSxe 636 II (RS and XL) models and strengthens FEIN's market
leadership in oscillating power tools.
The versatile and precise special tool assists professionals and homeowners working on interior fittings, tile restoration, window restoration, laying floor coverings or assembling furniture. The MultiMaster can also easily handle repair work on cars and boats as well as model building work. One single tool can sand, profile sand and rasp, polish, saw, scrape, cut and cut out, file and sharpen.
Features:
- New Starmount spindle provides high torque transfer
- New ergonomic design with non-slip softgrip
- New more powerful motor
Wendell Castle Interview - Part 2
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Furnitology ProductionsHere's the conclusion to our time with Wendell Castle. We dive in again and touch all aspects of his career. Starting where we left off at "Extreme" to how he uses the digital world in his work today. Wendell in passing even mentions the weak dollar and its effect on his building.
I hope you enjoy the conclusion as much as I enjoyed preparing us for Wendell Castle.
Remember, Wendell Castle showed us how to look at furniture differently. So whether we are designing a Delaware Valley interpretation of Chippendale or entering the Design Process intent on a personal build..... look differently and move the target back!!!!!!
Neil
A Good Cause
03/24/2008, 02:29 | Musings From My Shop
It?s no secret that I?m a fan of the work of Greene & Greene. A big fan. Anyone with cursory knowledge of the brothers has heard of the Ultimate Bungalows. These homes, designed by Charles and Henry at the height of their popularity and creative energy, are grand residences built with uncompromising attention to detail. Everyone agrees the the Gamble, Blacker, Pratt and Thorsen houses are in this category. Many include the Freeman Ford house as well. Were I the ultimate authority, the Robinson house would also join the list.
While the Gamble house remained in the Gamble family until it was donated to USC and the city of Pasadena, the other Ultimates have more colorful histories. Most endured some period of neglect or abuse. The rape of the Blacker house resulted in ordinances that protect historic homes in Pasadena. I think the Thorsen house trumps them all, however. Since 1942 the Thorsen house has been home to a fraternity.
I suspect that many of you have seen the movie ?Animal House.? It?s hilarious. It?s a classic. It?s completely unlike the California (Berkeley) chapter of Sigma Phi. The brothers of Sigma Phi take their stewardship of the Thorsen house, which the fraternity purchased from the Thorsen estate, very seriously. Every Saturday morning they work as a group on maintaining the house. They learn its history. They take pride in it.
But keeping up with the demands of a 100 year old mansion (and a work of art at that) is difficult. And expensive. About 9 million dollars. If you find yourself in Berkeley, stop by the house. The brothers will happily give you a tour and accept a donation to the fund. But don?t let an inability to visit stop you from contributing. Send a few dollars and help save an historic landmark, one of the Ultimates. It?s a lot easier to keep such houses around than to wait for another genius to come along and design more.
The Thorsen House Restoration Campaign
c/o Mr. Dan McNear
Route 1
Box 264-E
San Rafael, CA 94901
Episode 21 - Bombe Series - Measure Once Cut Twice
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!Building a Bookcase Part II
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworkers ResourcePart II of our Building a Bookcase video series covers the topic of face frames. We talk about ways to construct face frames (mortise and tenon, and pocket hole joinery) along with things to consider when figuring out what size your face frames need to be.
We'll even show you how to make sure your face frames fit your bookcase perfectly every time.
For more information on woodworking and to be alerted to future videos podcasts, go to our website and sign up for our newsletter.
www.WoodworkersResource.com
Thanks for watching!
Craig Stevens
Off to Williamsburg
01/08/2008, 02:05 | Arts & Mysteries with Adam Cherubini - Blog 
I'm heading off for the woodworking conference in Williamsburg. This year's subject is Tools, Tool Chests, and Workbenches. I'm looking forward to spending some time with equally odd, like-minded woodworkers and seeing the Seaton chest in person. Its a chance to rub elbows with the likes of Roy Underhill and Garret Hack.
For those unable to make it, I'll issue a full trip report a week or so after I return.
Adam
Mesquite HardWood Flooring
02/01/2007, 15:49 | The Wood ShopA beautiful floor Starts with premium custom-milled Mesquite HardWood flooring from Arizona Desert Mesquite.
Photo Courtesy of Murdock Floors
Mesquite HardWood Flooring is the most stable solid surface you can put under your feet. Custom milled tongue & groove planks made to your order insure the width and length you need. Matching BaseBoards can also be milled to your specifications. A wide plank Custom milled HardWood floor with Matching wide-tall base boards is a truly stunning SouthWest statement about you and your home.
Photo Courtesy of The Nelson Family
Photo courtesy of Wilkinson Flooring
Mesquite HardWood Flooring is an excellent choice for high traffic areas.
Kingwood Pencil
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub
The second and third pens I've turned. On the left is a "learning experience". It started out as ebony, but I had such trouble turning it I ended up with a huge blowout. I repaired it by cutting off the blown out part and gluing a block of padauk onto the barrel.
It worked OK but I had real issues with the CA glue finish. On the padauk it went wonderfully. On this ebony/padauk pen it bunched and blobbed and did things that didn't happen to me the first time.
Sigh.
For the kingwood pencil, however, I changed my finish. Instead of the CA glue, I used 10 coats of shellac. A 1 lb cut applied to the spinning blanks with an old cotton sock gave an amazing finish. No ridges, no bumps, no blobs, nothing but smooth shine.
The hardware kit is a click pencil in black enamel. I'm curious about the durability of the black finish. I love how it looks right now, so I'm hoping it wears well.We'll see.
I just picked up some 1/4" (7mm nearly) brass tubes from Hobby Lobby. Two 12" tubes for $3.47. I also picked up some other goodies I'll talk about later.
The tubes are for me to make my own barrels for some existing mechanical pencils I have. Classic Pentel drafting pencils, and some inexpensive all plastic pencils. I'd also like to make replacements for the housings of some of my favorite gel pens. I haven't decided how to do that yet, so stay tuned!
Episode 60 - Bombe Series - Upper Case Final Discussion
00/00/0000, 00:00 | T Chisel - The Rough Cut Show!New Podcast on Matt's Basement Workshop
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Woodworking blog Woodworking Magazine
Matt
Vanderlist has just posted a podcast of
a conversation he and I had last week. I hesitate to call it an interview because
it sounds a lot like us just goofing around and joking about woodworking.
So I guess, it actually just sounds a lot like a day at the office.
In any case, we discuss handsawing, premium tools and how we generate story ideas
here at Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking. Plus Matt and
I brainstorm an idea for a shop garment that ensures you never have to take a break
while woodworking – and it composts the yard. (If anyone has a good name for this
product, post it here.)
It was a fun conversation and
if you have some time at your desk and want to look like you're working… I highly
recommend it.
— Christopher Schwarz
Hawaiian Koa wood ring with an oak band.
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Wooden Rings from Touch Wood Rings
"Just got back from the UK to find the ring here waiting for me, thank you so much it looks stunning! She’ll be thrilled with it. Thank you again for all your hard work and kind emails." 
I'm Not Emotional...I Just Have Allergies!!!!
00/00/0000, 00:00 | Skiving OffI want to do another safety related blog entry before Woodworkers Safety Week gets away from us…
In the shop we should use all of our senses to detect danger. Well, use touch as the last sense for detection. Ya know…if you are unsure whether your table saw is on you should listen for the motor or look for the moving blade before reaching out to touch the spinning carbide.
I think our eyes are the most valuable safety tool we have. Hopefully, we see dangers. Even when we know dangers are present we use our eyes to determine our proximity to them.
So the Jeff Skiver Safety Tip of the day is…make sure your vision is clear by avoiding tears that can cause distorted vision. Therefore, never go to work in the shop immediately after watching any of the following movies:
1) Brian’s Song
2) Old Yeller
3) Love Story
4) Ghost
5) The Way We Were
6) Bambi
7) My Girl
8) E.T.
9) Forrest Gump
10) Pay It Forward
11) I Am Sam
12) Schindler’s List
13) Braveheart
14) Saving Private Ryan
15) Blazing Saddles
Also, if you are in the shop and any of the following songs come on the radio, IMMEDIATELY STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:
1) Wildfire by Michael Martin Murphey
2) Honey by Bobby Goldsboro
3) Diary by Bread
4) Think of Laura by Christopher Cross
5) How Do You Mend a Broken Heart by the Bee Gees
6) Still by The Commodores
7) Alone Again, Naturally by Gilbert O’Sullivan
Finally, if you have been reading ANYTHING written by Nicholas Sparks then you should stay away from your shop for at least 4 weeks after you finish the book. You may think you are okay at 3 weeks, but you aren’t. Even three and a half weeks after finishing Message In A Bottle I would spontaneously break down into uncontrollable fits of agonizing tears. Nicholas Sparks requires FOUR FULL WEEKS!!!!!! You’ve been warned.
290 The New Workbench Top
08/06/2008, 04:30 | Matt's Basement Workshop PodcastWarning!! The video was all shot with the old camera!!
The new workbench top is in place and it not only looks great but it works great too.
A nice flat surface, easy to attach accessories and jigs and of course when it gets to messed up...off with the old and on with the new.
Thanks for all the feedback so far, keep it a coming!
WIN AN iPOD TOUCH!! If you have the time, please take the new listener survey, and when you do you'll be entered to win an iPod Touch.
If you'd like to enter for free schwag or just have a comment, question or suggestion drop me a line at mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com or head over to my website at www.mattsbasementworkshop.com or call our Skype Voicemail at 231 354-2338.
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